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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Photo
By: Paul Shultz When: Jan 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember this rock!
Sweet pic!
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob
By: Paul Shultz When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the Alpinist 25 article on it!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Rhododendron (5.6)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much better then Laurel at left. Fun moves!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jane (5.7+)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun up to the ceiling, and a few moves above the ceiling. I actually used the first tree, maybe 50 feet up, but don't regret it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Paul Shultz When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good climb.
A big tip, a gold camalot is not the best piece of gear to use the first move. Instead, stick a blue TCU in the pin scar less than 2 feet above the pocket for the gold cam.
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Paul Shultz When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More routes have gone up in the last several weeks. The guys who do a lot of the route setting are going to be working on topos and possibly a website.
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Location: WA : Mazama
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tiny little town. Hit up the general store. They have great home made food. Great salsa especially! Also go to Winthrop, maybe a half hour drive and go to the pizza place near the Hardware and Grocery stores.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed here on the way back to Bellingham from the Bugaboos. I didn't do to many routes but its a gorgeous setting and I'd love to go back!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: #4 Camalot recommended for going through the roof. a #3 will work, but a 4 is much better. One of the best routes I've ever done anywhere. You're surprised how good the holds are on the second pitch and they just keep going!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : BB Route (5.8+)
By: Paul Shultz When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, very tricky to rappel clean if your belayer or second can't make it. All the holds are there, just have to go for it!
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alright climbing. bolts are in good shape are replaced when needed. Wear a helmet! this is an old quarry and I've seen my climbing partner shift 2 coffee table size flakes no problem. Giant wall gets great sun and on a 40 degree sunny day can be quite enjoyable to climb. Does have some ice in winter, though top roping is sketchy to rig. Lower slabs have a tendency to be wet but offer some fun climbs.
BEWARE! Some rock is reglued!
Definitely not best climbing spot in the world, but one of th... more >>
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Location: PA : Ralph Stover State Park (Hi...
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After my second experience at High Rocks, I don't think I'll be going back. After 50+ years of climbing, everything is super polished. Maybe I'm spoiled with alpine granite and shawangunk conglomerate? I would recommend Allamuchy State Park, Chickie's rock in Lancaster County and Birdsboro Quarry, which is pretty loose, but you have friction so wear a helmet and on belay!
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Location: PA : Ralph Stover State Park (Hi... : d. Tango Wall : Tango (5.8 PG13)
By: Paul Shultz When: Feb 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off.
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