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Member Since: Dec 30, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 841
Total Points: 798
Last Year: 149
Last 30 Days: 3
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 555 | Routes 43 | Areas 10 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 28 | Stars 389 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Devil's Kitchen : Last Taco (5.11-)
By: Paul S When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: It's possible to continue to the top of this formation from the anchor. Climb past the bush in the crack and then you have two options, left or right. Either way, old, scary fixed protection will keep you company over mossy slab and face climbing. I went left. On top there's one old, sketchy bolt at the top of each variation. I opted to downclimb to the lower anchor and rap from there. A spicy little adventure extension for a little summit. An extra #1, #3, and two screamers/draws wi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Unknown Tower (Hidden Pleas...
By: Paul S When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: This might be the Mexican Caulk Gun you're referring to. In High on Moab it mentions that it's 5.10+R A2. Though it didn't feel that hard and it does go clean.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Red Canyon : Supercrack Buttress : Super Crack of the Monument (5.10)
By: Paul S When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: If you park off of S. Camp Road before turning into the neighborhood that leads to the mouth of the canyon, you can hike up the wash that leads into the canyon. This adds 15 or so minutes of flat hiking to the approach if you were to park by the fancy houses right at the mouth of the canyon. A little frustrating to not be able to have better access, but it's a lot better than rapping in or approaching from Liberty Cap.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Putterman Residence : Photo
By: Paul S When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: It was probably 150' or so left of the original line. I just C1'd up an ok crack, then I remember it being mostly a bunch of 4th class or easy 5th class to the different summits. Nothing special, but it was a fun little adventure with all the little summits up top. Nice job on those routes you put up. I was definitely just looking for the easy way up! I haven't done Hand of Puttima yet, but hope to tick it off soon.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : The Putterman Residence : Photo
By: Paul S When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: I rope solo'd a more direct line that led to the huge ledge and then more or less followed the original pitches. So im guessing that webbing was mine..? I think I did it in the 2008 or 9 range. I remember not leaving any biners because I was gettting low after leaving some on other anchors that trip and figured by the time someone else climbed it the webbing would need to be replaced anyways!


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : Pitchfork Tower - From the ... (5.8)
By: Paul S When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: There's now an anchor above the long OW corner that this route eventually joins. You can rap down this with a double rope rappel. It puts you directly back at the base, and you don't have to scramble down to it like the original anchor, but it does require two ropes.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Le Veuve Noire (5.9 C1+) : Photo
By: Paul S When: Jan 12, 2015

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Comments: Nice!! How was the jump? How about getting back across?


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon : Queen's View- Standard Rout... (5.8 A2- PG13)
By: Paul S When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: A single 70m rope is enough to rappel down with. A brown tricam worked for the holes towards the top, but it was iffy! I was desperately wishing I had a #3 camalot instead of a #2 for the placement above the holes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower North (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Instead of doing the awkward rappel to the notch, it's possible to do a double rope rappel to the ground. We equalized the single bolt with a knot that we slid into a little gash to the right of the bolt. It's a small little gash, but it held some bounce testing without blowing.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Paul S When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: If you're talking about the little arch in the upper left of the photo, then it's not quite a tower yet. There's actually a view point right up there. You could jump over the rails and be on the top of the arch.

As far as the splitter, it's undocumented, but it's been climbed before. I've heard that it's hard and wide.

If you're talking about the center tower, that's Defecating Monk. The popular route up that is on this site. The route that goes up the upper crack that can be seen in th... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Yup, that's them.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Smith Cabin. Nothern Reef a... : Arch Tower.. "Knot in My Ba... (5.9)
By: Paul S When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful adventure tower. Two rappels with a single 70 m rope will get you down. I believe I did the 1st pitch slightly different than what's described here. I started on the east face, rather than around the corner. There wasn't a need to do a move of aid to get into the chimney, just some lie backing. Also, up towards the top of P1 I continued straight up instead of heading left after the bulge. P2 had some heads up climbing avoiding some death blocks, besides that the rock was surprisin... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hideout Wall : Spliff Spire (C1+)
By: Paul S When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: I was anticipating a bunch of drilled holes to hook, but it's all natural features. Felt like the placements became a little harder the higher I went. On another note, I found two etriers on the top just lying there. Somehow the wind didn't blow them away. They're now old and crusted, but if they held sentimental value and you want them back let me know soon, otherwise they're off to the dump.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a quick mini dose of excitement. Micro cams allow this to go clean pretty easily if you can make a gigantic reach off the ground to clip the first fixed piece. As I was transitioning from a drilled piton to a bolt the piton popped out! This felt a bit more heads up than A1/C1 to me. Getting to the first bolt was exciting as the pro is in a fairly thin flake and now with the junk piton gone, you'll either need to do a hook move or possibly improve the hole and fill it with a piton or ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : The Yo Hammer (5.9 A1)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: The hole for the angle has filled in with sand and has compacted over time making the hole frustratingly useless, so instead of 1 exciting mantel you get to do 2 exciting mantels now. I used one #2 bird beak placement instead of the LA and it got the job done nicely.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Moore Cutoff Road : Sara's Spire (5.9 C1 R)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: Actually a pretty fun route. The start was a little scary getting around a big chockstone. The ow takes a #3 and 4 big bro nicely if you don't have the valley giants. To get to the summit requires a spicy boulder problem above the anchors.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Head of Sinbad South : Swasey's Secret (5.7 C2-)
By: Paul S When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt is pretty loose, but it can be skipped by stemming far left and getting micro cams in. Makes the start a bit more spicy though. Definitely be ready to get in those top steps, Ben did a good job spacing the bolts out. A single 70 meter is more than enough to get back down.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Incredible Handcrack of the... (5.10+)
By: Paul S When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: There's a second pitch to this climb that goes to the top of the tower. P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Organ Pipe Spire (5.8+ C1 PG13)
By: Paul S When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that anchor is sketchy. It's possible to scramble up and over to get to the anchors of Pipe Dream and rap that route. The main downside is it puts you on the other side of the tower from where this route starts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : Phantom Spire (C1+) : Photo
By: Paul S When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Right, they're right above the old cabin at the end of the trail.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Seven Drunken Sailors : Third Sailor (5.1 A0)
By: Paul S When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: This little hoodoo has been climbed before without the bolts. It's possible to fling the rope over the hoodoo while you and a partner are on two of the other summits, then just fix the rope on one side of the hoodoo and jug up the other side.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Roughly a kilometer from the trailhead, there's a group of towers on the left. The furthest right of which has an amazing pitch of tight hands to perfect hands on a just slightly overhanging face that leads to the summit. Does anyone here know the names of the towers/formations or about the other routes up these towers?


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Singles (5.10a)
By: Paul S When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This climb now has two bolts for the anchor, one is an original, the other a nice 1/2" bolt in perfect Wingate.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Haagenschlong (5.9+ C1-)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: It's been a while since I climbed this, but looking at it from the summit of Flapjack this past weekend, I'm pretty sure bolts have been added, eliminating the need for hooking. I'm not positive on this!! But if I were to climb it again, I wouldn't bring my hooks. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong please!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Flapjack Tower (5.8+)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: I never noticed that there was a tower right here. It blends in so well with the wall behind it. Nice find!

We extended the anchor over the cap rock, so the rope pulls fine now as long as you don't get the rope in the big decaying fin you pass on the way up, which is easy to avoid (on the way down, on the way up is a different story). We were a little nervous with the anchor though, the bolts are in a section of rock that is undercut and there is a crack separating it from the rest of the cap... more >>


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