Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
My first FA


Member Since: Dec 30, 2004
Last Visit: Oct 2, 2014
Contact Paul S


Point Rank: # 954
Total Points: 658
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 1
31 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Paul S been climbing?










Contributions


All 513 | Routes 33 | Areas 9 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 27 | Stars 372 | Ratings 3
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: Oct 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, that's them.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Smith Cabin. Nothern Reef a... : Arch Tower.. "Knot in My Ba... (5.9)
By: Paul S When: Sep 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful adventure tower. Two rappels with a single 70 m rope will get you down. I believe I did the 1st pitch slightly different than what's described here. I started on the east face, rather than around the corner. There wasn't a need to do a move of aid to get into the chimney, just some lie backing. Also, up towards the top of P1 I continued straight up instead of heading left after the bulge. P2 had some heads up climbing avoiding some death blocks, besides that the rock was surprisin... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hideout Wall : Spliff Spire (C1+)
By: Paul S When: Sep 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I was anticipating a bunch of drilled holes to hook, but it's all natural features. Felt like the placements became a little harder the higher I went. On another note, I found two etriers on the top just lying there. Somehow the wind didn't blow them away. They're now old and crusted, but if they held sentimental value and you want them back let me know soon, otherwise they're off to the dump.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : Terror Dreams (5.8+ A1+)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a quick mini dose of excitement. Micro cams allow this to go clean pretty easily if you can make a gigantic reach off the ground to clip the first fixed piece. As I was transitioning from a drilled piton to a bolt the piton popped out! This felt a bit more heads up than A1/C1 to me. Getting to the first bolt was exciting as the pro is in a fairly thin flake and now with the junk piton gone, you'll either need to do a hook move or possibly improve the hole and fill it with a piton or ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Roadside Cragging : The Yo Hammer (5.9 A1)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The hole for the angle has filled in with sand and has compacted over time making the hole frustratingly useless, so instead of 1 exciting mantel you get to do 2 exciting mantels now. I used one #2 bird beak placement instead of the LA and it got the job done nicely.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Moore Cutoff Road : Sara's Spire (5.9 C1 R)
By: Paul S When: Aug 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Actually a pretty fun route. The start was a little scary getting around a big chockstone. The ow takes a #3 and 4 big bro nicely if you don't have the valley giants. To get to the summit requires a spicy boulder problem above the anchors.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Head of Sinbad South : Swasey's Secret (5.7 C2-)
By: Paul S When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first bolt is pretty loose, but it can be skipped by stemming far left and getting micro cams in. Makes the start a bit more spicy though. Definitely be ready to get in those top steps, Ben did a good job spacing the bolts out. A single 70 meter is more than enough to get back down.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Incredible Handcrack of the... (5.10+)
By: Paul S When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There's a second pitch to this climb that goes to the top of the tower. P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Organ Pipe Spire (5.8+ C1 PG13)
By: Paul S When: May 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, that anchor is sketchy. It's possible to scramble up and over to get to the anchors of Pipe Dream and rap that route. The main downside is it puts you on the other side of the tower from where this route starts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : McInnis Canyons : Phantom Spire (C1+) : Photo
By: Paul S When: Dec 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Right, they're right above the old cabin at the end of the trail.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Seven Drunken Sailors : Third Sailor (5.9 A0)
By: Paul S When: May 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This little hoodoo has been climbed before without the bolts. It's possible to fling the rope over the hoodoo while you and a partner are on two of the other summits, then just fix the rope on one side of the hoodoo and jug up the other side.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: May 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Roughly a kilometer from the trailhead, there's a group of towers on the left. The furthest right of which has an amazing pitch of tight hands to perfect hands on a just slightly overhanging face that leads to the summit. Does anyone here know the names of the towers/formations or about the other routes up these towers?


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Singles (5.10a)
By: Paul S When: Apr 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This climb now has two bolts for the anchor, one is an original, the other a nice 1/2" bolt in perfect Wingate.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Haagenschlong (5.9+ C1-)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It's been a while since I climbed this, but looking at it from the summit of Flapjack this past weekend, I'm pretty sure bolts have been added, eliminating the need for hooking. I'm not positive on this!! But if I were to climb it again, I wouldn't bring my hooks. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong please!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Flapjack Tower (5.8+)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I never noticed that there was a tower right here. It blends in so well with the wall behind it. Nice find!

We extended the anchor over the cap rock, so the rope pulls fine now as long as you don't get the rope in the big decaying fin you pass on the way up, which is easy to avoid (on the way down, on the way up is a different story). We were a little nervous with the anchor though, the bolts are in a section of rock that is undercut and there is a crack separating it from the rest of the cap... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I really enjoyed this tower. The hike in and setting of the tower are beautiful. Each pitch has its own character too.

I feel like I used more .75's than .5's on the 1st pitch, either way, you need a lot of both!

The last pitch you only really need a .3 and a number 4 camalot, along with some slings to extend those pieces and some of the bolts. I really enjoyed this pitch, there were a lot of spots where you have to get out of the aiders, or, like Andrew is saying, it'll probably make a ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado National Monument ... : Columbus Canyon (WI2-3)
By: Paul S When: Feb 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There's also some ice lower in the canyon at the same grade. It's more of an ice scramble with a few steps. After passing through the steep section of the canyon, there is a seep that provides another 100 or so feet of WI 2 steps to the right (as one is heading up canyon). Once on the bench below JB Tower, you can continue along the drainage up for a final 60' slab of easy ice that terminates at the base of the wingate. It's a fun, scenic little stroll on some ice that'll let you swing your t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Dirty Old Man Tower : ... : Photo
By: Paul S When: May 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: #1 is Long Dong on Kissing Couple.
#2, 3, 4 are on Crack of Noon Tower. #2 and 3 are just opposite of the start of Long Dong, #4 is the green line in the picture, looks like it's fists and maybe ??unclimbed??
#5 is Dirty Old Man.
#6 is Airport Tower on this site.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Balanced Rock (5.9 A1-)
By: Paul S When: Mar 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for posting this, I was wondering if this had ever been climbed. Unfortunately, this and Mushroom Rock are currently off limits to climbing for some reason.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Never Cry Wolf (5.11c/d)
By: Paul S When: Mar 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Right by this climb, there's a large boulder with a slab that's facing the route. If you look carefully, you'll be able to see a set of about 8 dinosaur tracks. Several of the other boulders at the base of the wall have tracks too, it's pretty neat! The owner of the dinosaur museum in Fruita had a little group up there and pointed them out when I was racking up for this climb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : East Face (5.10 C2)
By: Paul S When: Feb 19, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: It's funny (or maybe a little sad), we read Ben's information about getting off route and we ended up doing the same exact thing. In both instances though, we were able to traverse back on route with out setting up an intermediate anchor.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : No Thoroughfare Canyon : Over the Edge Spire-Child's... (5.8+ R)
By: Paul S When: Nov 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: That's a good idea about threading those huecos, I didn't even realize they were connected. I just shoved in a cam in one of them and felt somewhat ok about it.

Another thing I forgot to mention was the huge, rotting, pillarish thing that is on the wall that you rappel down on from the rim. It's maybe 40', and at its base, where it's connected to the wall, it's maybe a few inches in diameter and it looks like it's on the verge of toppling over. It's a pretty unique formation and a little sca... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Unaweep Wall : ... : Photo
By: Paul S When: Sep 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Really? Posting a route with a relatively huge hike in a canyon that has a bunch of walls with short approaches (that don't even see a lot of people to begin with) will suddenly bring the masses to this wall and destroy a wild place? Stop being such a drama queen! I think it's a safe bet that people like Ward can go up there, have their little solo adventures (and point it out that they've done so on the internet), and still not see another single person up there.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Unaweep Wall : ... : "That's All I'm Asking For!... (5.11)
By: Paul S When: Sep 1, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Wow! A 1000' climb so close to GJ. Nice jobs, guys!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area
By: Paul S When: Mar 14, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Just a heads up, there's a golden eagle nesting up canyon of Monolith Spire in Monument Canyon, I was told by some rangers that climbing is off limits until Sept. 1st in this area, but luckily there isn't much climbing that is affected. Monolith Spire is off limits and everything up canyon to Desert Solitaire is also off, but Desert Solitaire itself is open.

One last note, someone has a rope fixed on what I'm guessing is a new route (or maybe just a really obscure route) in between Monolith ... more >>


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>