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My first FA


Member Since: Dec 30, 2004
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Paul S


Point Rank: # 937
Total Points: 652
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Paul S been climbing?










Contributions


All 505 | Routes 33 | Areas 9 | Photos 31 | Page Improvments | Comments 32 | Posts 26 | Stars 371 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Head of Sinbad South : Swasey's Secret (5.7 C2-)
By: Paul S When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: The first bolt is pretty loose, but it can be skipped by stemming far left and getting micro cams in. Makes the start a bit more spicy though. Definitely be ready to get in those top steps, Ben did a good job spacing the bolts out. A single 70 meter is more than enough to get back down.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Incredible Handcrack of the... (5.10+)
By: Paul S When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: There's a second pitch to this climb that goes to the top of the tower. P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Other areas : Organ Pipe Spire (5.8+ C1 PG13)
By: Paul S When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that anchor is sketchy. It's possible to scramble up and over to get to the anchors of Pipe Dream and rap that route. The main downside is it puts you on the other side of the tower from where this route starts.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : McInnis Canyons : Phantom Spire (C1+) : Photo
By: Paul S When: Dec 9, 2013

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Comments: Right, they're right above the old cabin at the end of the trail.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Seven Drunken Sailors : Third Sailor (5.9 A0)
By: Paul S When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: This little hoodoo has been climbed before without the bolts. It's possible to fling the rope over the hoodoo while you and a partner are on two of the other summits, then just fix the rope on one side of the hoodoo and jug up the other side.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit...
By: Paul S When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Roughly a kilometer from the trailhead, there's a group of towers on the left. The furthest right of which has an amazing pitch of tight hands to perfect hands on a just slightly overhanging face that leads to the summit. Does anyone here know the names of the towers/formations or about the other routes up these towers?


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Singles (5.10a)
By: Paul S When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This climb now has two bolts for the anchor, one is an original, the other a nice 1/2" bolt in perfect Wingate.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Haagenschlong (5.9+ C1-)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: It's been a while since I climbed this, but looking at it from the summit of Flapjack this past weekend, I'm pretty sure bolts have been added, eliminating the need for hooking. I'm not positive on this!! But if I were to climb it again, I wouldn't bring my hooks. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong please!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Flapjack Tower (5.8+)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: I never noticed that there was a tower right here. It blends in so well with the wall behind it. Nice find!

We extended the anchor over the cap rock, so the rope pulls fine now as long as you don't get the rope in the big decaying fin you pass on the way up, which is easy to avoid (on the way down, on the way up is a different story). We were a little nervous with the anchor though, the bolts are in a section of rock that is undercut and there is a crack separating it from the rest of the cap... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: Paul S When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: I really enjoyed this tower. The hike in and setting of the tower are beautiful. Each pitch has its own character too.

I feel like I used more .75's than .5's on the 1st pitch, either way, you need a lot of both!

The last pitch you only really need a .3 and a number 4 camalot, along with some slings to extend those pieces and some of the bolts. I really enjoyed this pitch, there were a lot of spots where you have to get out of the aiders, or, like Andrew is saying, it'll probably make a ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado National Monument ... : Columbus Canyon (WI2-3)
By: Paul S When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: There's also some ice lower in the canyon at the same grade. It's more of an ice scramble with a few steps. After passing through the steep section of the canyon, there is a seep that provides another 100 or so feet of WI 2 steps to the right (as one is heading up canyon). Once on the bench below JB Tower, you can continue along the drainage up for a final 60' slab of easy ice that terminates at the base of the wingate. It's a fun, scenic little stroll on some ice that'll let you swing your t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Dirty Old Man Tower : ... : Photo
By: Paul S When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: #1 is Long Dong on Kissing Couple.
#2, 3, 4 are on Crack of Noon Tower. #2 and 3 are just opposite of the start of Long Dong, #4 is the green line in the picture, looks like it's fists and maybe ??unclimbed??
#5 is Dirty Old Man.
#6 is Airport Tower on this site.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Balanced Rock (5.9 A1-)
By: Paul S When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for posting this, I was wondering if this had ever been climbed. Unfortunately, this and Mushroom Rock are currently off limits to climbing for some reason.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Never Cry Wolf (5.11c/d)
By: Paul S When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Right by this climb, there's a large boulder with a slab that's facing the route. If you look carefully, you'll be able to see a set of about 8 dinosaur tracks. Several of the other boulders at the base of the wall have tracks too, it's pretty neat! The owner of the dinosaur museum in Fruita had a little group up there and pointed them out when I was racking up for this climb.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower : East Face (5.10 C2)
By: Paul S When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: It's funny (or maybe a little sad), we read Ben's information about getting off route and we ended up doing the same exact thing. In both instances though, we were able to traverse back on route with out setting up an intermediate anchor.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : No Thoroughfare Canyon : Over the Edge Spire-Child's... (5.8+ R)
By: Paul S When: Nov 5, 2011

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Comments: That's a good idea about threading those huecos, I didn't even realize they were connected. I just shoved in a cam in one of them and felt somewhat ok about it.

Another thing I forgot to mention was the huge, rotting, pillarish thing that is on the wall that you rappel down on from the rim. It's maybe 40', and at its base, where it's connected to the wall, it's maybe a few inches in diameter and it looks like it's on the verge of toppling over. It's a pretty unique formation and a little sca... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Unaweep Wall : ... : Photo
By: Paul S When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Really? Posting a route with a relatively huge hike in a canyon that has a bunch of walls with short approaches (that don't even see a lot of people to begin with) will suddenly bring the masses to this wall and destroy a wild place? Stop being such a drama queen! I think it's a safe bet that people like Ward can go up there, have their little solo adventures (and point it out that they've done so on the internet), and still not see another single person up there.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Unaweep Wall : ... : "That's All I'm Asking For!... (5.11)
By: Paul S When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: Wow! A 1000' climb so close to GJ. Nice jobs, guys!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area
By: Paul S When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: Just a heads up, there's a golden eagle nesting up canyon of Monolith Spire in Monument Canyon, I was told by some rangers that climbing is off limits until Sept. 1st in this area, but luckily there isn't much climbing that is affected. Monolith Spire is off limits and everything up canyon to Desert Solitaire is also off, but Desert Solitaire itself is open.

One last note, someone has a rope fixed on what I'm guessing is a new route (or maybe just a really obscure route) in between Monolith ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Gold Star Canyon : Bouncing Betty Route (5.9+)
By: Paul S When: Oct 20, 2010

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Comments: A single 60 m works fine for getting down. The top was a little unnerving with all the huge blocks decaying away, but the climbing was pretty fun..


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Paul S When: Jun 16, 2010

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Comments: Sorry to ruin your fun! Have you been up Pharaoh Point yet? If not, let's get on that soon.

Skyeler, Airport Tower is the big, wide tower behind Kissing Couple, it's kind of hard to make out in the picture, but it is pretty easy to make out from the rim. Rainbow Tower is the next major tower up canyon from Egpyt Rock.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Photo
By: Paul S When: Jun 12, 2010

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Comments: Eygpt Rock, Pharoh Point, Kissing Couple, Crack of Noon, Dirty Old Man, Airport Tower, and Grand View...a pack of Fat Tire sounds delicious!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Wizard I (5.10+)
By: Paul S When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: The route is closer to around 100', so a single 60m rope works to get back down. Really fun route!


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Wide Load aka Route 3 (5.9)
By: Paul S When: Nov 3, 2009

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Comments: The anchor has been replaced. If I remember right, there are 2 pins and a good bolt with chains up there now. Thanks to whoever replaced it!


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Photo
By: Paul S When: Sep 21, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Sirius, There might of been some friable flakes at one time on the arete, but it has cleaned up pretty well. From what I remember when I did it (Jan 09) the quality of the rock was pretty good, but there are some sections were it was a bit runout.


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