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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : ... : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now why would you not do a lovely bit of squeeze, especially with a tree at the rim? Where's Dean ?
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Salome : Super slab (5.12-) : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.12 slab is ungodly hard... Not saying this isn't but if you haven't done much slab, then it's unlikey you're getting up 5.12 slab as your intro to slabs. Go try the 5.11s, like the Calf, etc.. on the Apron and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : ... : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Garber, as in Jim Garber... no T there
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know George, you sure that isn't more like 1970 with the framed pack :-) ?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : ... : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeouch! (I think there's a bomber stopper out there that just falls into place, so to speak.)
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Comanche Ridge (NW Ridge of... : Southwest Ridge, Comanche P... (5.10+ R) : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: SOOO Sweet
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Cheeseball (5.10+) By: Paul Davidson When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Jim Haisley (I think... with me and Tim and/or Larry providing belay and heckling)
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Location: Trad Climbing : Falling on gear success sto... : Post : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or put in a stopper and keep moving.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Perfect Peter (5.11d) By: Paul Davidson When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While JS did crow much about it, I did get a rave from him one night about this route. It sounded hard enough and desperate enough that I didn't want to get on it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13) By: Paul Davidson When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought Andy was down rating it, good for a chuckle. 5.10+ was an accurate rating for the day. That's 10+, not 10. Pbbly like 5.9+ at Grnt Mnt. ;-) My memory is that at the time, that was a good rating relative to the other stuff in the area. Histoplasmosis was 5.11. This was easier. I recall being psyched to get the #2 hex which according to Steve you push back into a hole, turn 90 degrees and voila, hang a truck. And while I placed it, I placed other stuff above it ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Copperhead 5 (5.10 PG13) By: Paul Davidson When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW - to get picky, the complete route name is Copperhead #5. Copperheads came in sizes. Not sure I ever saw a #5.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Alamo Canyon : Solitude Dome : Solitude 5.10 A.2 (5.10 C1) By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does Kerry's book have this as A2 ? My recollection it was pretty bomber aid and we drilled the bolt with the idea of being it freed later. At the time it didn't look like should be all that hard so Jeff's description above sounds right from the TR. That would have been my guess. But, we were climbing above that level at that time. However, it was dirty and grity at the aid part and the sun was looking quite low so we were racing for the summit. Someone should go bag the FFA of that 10 or 1... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Texas Canyon By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: LMAO, Eric, you could have had him cursing your name for the whole 5 hour drive home... You are so kind sometimes. This place is the definition of rotten desert granite. One would think that somewhere in all of that rock there would be at least one thing worth doing.... alas
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went up once to do this climb (I believe after a Beanfest) and the Great SG leaned out (more like a fall over and grab the wall isn't it ?) to clip the first bolt and proceeded to dissapear down into the maw. Fortunately Jim Haisley had a high belay set. I believe that ended that day's Pissgum adventure.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Luke Slingwalker (5.7) By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for that note Scott. Had to order the book from Amazon. Gary was a great guy and a fine asset to the Tucson scene of the '80s. I believe he did a bit of work with the Summit Hut under the counter guide, some of which helped JS with his later work. He and Doug did a number of fine back country adventures together. My last time I saw him was on one of his trips through NM and we had an awesome full on Tele powder day up in Santa Fe in about '90. It was snowing so hard that every run w... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: DUDE! I thought you'd started wearing a brain bucket (finally)
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple : Screaming Sky Crack (Gary D... (5.10+ R) : Photo By: Paul Davidson When: Oct 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks to be awesome. Possibly be the best climb on Zoro ? That headwall pitch is so striking. You can't get a feel for the exposure on it until you are up there and the Canyon is falling away from you on both sides. FYI - I had heard a report of the headwall pitch having been climbed sometime (late '80s, early '90s.) Seems like I heard it was done by a big name climber. I want to say Tobin Sorenson but not sure those dates work... Anyway, regardless of who did what when, you lads ha... more >>
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