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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : CCC Trail Project (V6+)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Remember to change this back to a project if it's a separate problem.
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Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : Pavilion Block Bouldering : Harappan Civilization (V3-4)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with James, hard is right. I have now given this thing like 20 attempts not counting working moves. I'm giving it V4+ when I send LOL.
No way is this thing remotely V3.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : CCC Trail Project (V6+)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't link the video because it's a facebook embedded video. I think John "friend-ed" Adrian to view it. I would say Adrian followed the natural line, using the crack and both aretes.
I think a problem going out the lip could be a problem in itself, but Adrian definitely followed what was natural.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : Cosa Nostra (V4 PG13)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll go try to do it both ways! Now all we need is some good conditions at GDodge, too many flys and skeeters lol.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : Cosa Nostra (V4 PG13)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does the Arete make this climb a lot easier? Seems natural to use it based on the photos.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : Ehhh Tony (V7)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Naw! This sounds like a sweet link-up, I was just trying to get an idea of the line.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Easy Arete (V0-1)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah that was the one John did.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Criminal Mastermind (V3 PG13)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I said "a bit more scrubbing at the top" a.k.a "kill the tree" lol.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Speechless (V5)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow Mike nice job! I never thought the line would go like that. Looks amazing, can't wait to get on it!
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : George's Point
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have not personally climbed at Grandad's but from looking at Google Maps (which is usually dead on) the cliff and parking area are part of "Grandad Bluff Park" and should be fine for climbing, it is not a state natural area so unless there are specific posted rules against climbing it shouldn't be a worry.
However, private land starts immediately after the cliff line and park land may not extend more then a few yards past the cliff. I would say access to the bottom crosses private land, but w... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left foot?? :)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Velvet Hammer (V8)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess it could go either way but what Jamie types under The Finish about the difference between "The Centaur" and "Marble Sit" actually supports a separate problem.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Velvet Hammer (V8)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh? That's not a very good argument. So two problems start on the same starting hold. They go in totally opposite directions using different holds. Once you reach the lip you can traverse inbetween the two different topouts. So they are considered the same problem?
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Group Camp B : A Taste of Choss Wall : A Taste of Choss (5.12+)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh snap!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone think the rangers that enforced the closure back in the day are even around still? I doubt any of the current rangers even know where New Sandstone is lol.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Criminal Mastermind (V3 PG13)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool and overhanging most of the way. A bit more scrubbin on the top moves and this thing will be classic.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff West : Fists and Fury (5.9+) : Photo
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will see if there are some with you higher in the crack. I could have sworn I took a few with John's camera before the whipper.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : House Boulder Area : Red Rocket Arete. (V4+)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun mantle topout! Thought this was a bit easier than Beached Whale.
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : House Boulder Area : Warm Up 2 (V1-2)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great problem! Even with obvious sit-start definitely only V1
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Location: WI : Central Sandstone : Rattlesnake Mound : Main Cliff East : The Fun Route (V1-2)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So does the fun route follow the same topout as Chaos? Basically a stand start on the corner?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Photo
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: John and I were looking at this also. Looks good for sure.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : All In All (V5)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Chris!
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : Ehhh Tony (V7)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this starts on the same pockets as "All in All" but moves direct up into Cosa Nostra instead of traversing left?
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : All In All (V5)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So i'm a bit confused by the difference between this and "All in the Family", does this just add the lower moves farther to the right of the boulder and links into Family? Or is there something else different?
Also if Family is V5+ how can this not be a 6- if it adds some extra moves?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : The Power of The Chrome Dom... (V0)
By: Paul Campbell When: Jun 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem has a really bad landing.
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