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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Flake (5.8+)
By: Patrik When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Northumberland Crack (5.9+)
By: Patrik When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the wildest 5.9 cruxes in the canyon! BUT: The second pitch (the 5.9 crux) is quite loose before you get to the wide crack. You might get about three sketchy pieces before the bolt, the rest is crap. And don't expect too much confidence-building clipping that bolt; it's not one of those shiny, beefy things you find in BoCan or Clear Creek. If you're not allergic to double ropes, it could be a good idea; if you pull off any of the loose sharp flakes it could cut your ro... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Patrik When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a variation 3rd pitch listed in Levin's guidebook, claiming a 'few loose flakes' rated 5.8 PG (to the left of P3 decribed on this site). It is basically 60ft with no gear in any solid rock and a great chance of pulling off loose holds. Please avoid this variation as the bottom is always crowded with people. I found it more sketchy than the 1st pitch of Moonlight Drive (at Cadillac) that gets a 5.8 R rating.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Patrik When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long forgotten (?) variation is listed in Rossiter's book but not in Levine's modern version: instead of diagonalling up and left for pitch 3, go straight up the arete. Stay slightly right at the start and then follow the natural features back left to the arete. Rossiter's topo shows a 5.6ish traverse up and left meeting the pins on the original pitch 4. A more exciting variation is to skip the leftward traverse (there's a bit of loose rock at the start of this), pull a short steep section on ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Patrik When: Aug 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gluing holds in Eldo?
As of 7/28/2011, our beloved magic chockstone on this climb was completely stuck! As such, the new rating is at least 5.10b+. Isn't gluing holds supposed to make climbs easier???
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Whymper (5.9 PG13)
By: Patrik When: Aug 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this much harder than its rating of 5.9. Maybe because of the lichen at the crux leaning weird crack/slab. Gear was good, though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: Patrik When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had no trouble protecting this route and felt more comfortable on this than for example Purple Haze. Rossiter says 'poorly protected crack', which had me scared away for a while, but once I was on it, it wasn't bad at all.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana (5.9 R)
By: Patrik When: Jul 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no idea where the 5.9 rating in the books come from. This is spankin' hard!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Welcome to Eldo (5.10a)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is easier than the wide section of West Buttress (5.9). It might become a 10a if you really want to do it as an offwidth instead of the clean, obvious layback that it is.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Auburn Lane (5.10-)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rossiter's book lists this as 10d, but I agree with Levine's new book as 10b. Super solid gear all the way.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Moonlight Drive (5.10b PG13)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Copy Ivan's comments above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamond, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a in Eldo, I think Moonlight Drive is a bit easier. There's a bunch of suspect rock on the first pitch, bit being careful, you only need to touch one suspect rock (the very large flake) while climbing it at 5.8 level. Just avoid the big suspect jugs and use the smaller and more stable features. Gear can also be placed away from the suspect stuff with a bit of imagination. Make sure your second is... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are allergic to runouts, pick the right-hand variation on P1 following a small, left-facing corner instead of traversing out left. Doing this, you can clip one bolt on Land of Ra.
If following the suggestion in Rossiter's book about going left to the arete above the roof/bulge on P2, I think this is quite a bit harder than 5.9. Taking a step to the right makes it a 9.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10b)
By: Patrik When: Jul 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Ivan above. Compared to Deviant, Highway of Diamonds, Chockstone, Xanadu, and other 10a routes in Eldo, Ichiban is a bit easier. Gearwise, I would put it at PG. Mostly you get great gear (and you can even back up a bolt with a great nut!), but there is a small runout section. However, there's nothing to hit if falling.
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