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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Chore Boy (5.10b/c)
By: patrick kadel When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Snooze were the best pitches I've done at Plotinus. So at 5'7" I made a dynamic move at the point I think all you tall people are saying this climb would be hard if you are short. Bullocks! That reachy move is only hard if you are short and refuse to let go. Easy catch but I welcome exciting moves with a 1 foot fall potential. Yeah, very brave.
As far as the rating I'll say 5.9 unless you are saying this is harder than Cosmosis 9+? It is hard for me to consider different ratings standa... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: patrick kadel When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this today for the first time and have to agree with everyone that it is one of Eldo's best. I really don't climb S or R routes and the only reason I did was because of the comments here, so thanks everyone. I will agree the first pitch of Outer Space is the more difficult of the two. If I relate the dihedral to another classic, Over The Hill, the Outer Space dihedral is easier but still a handful and the exposure is no comparison. I am also comforted on OTH by all those pins...or is i... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Supernatural (5.11a)
By: patrick kadel When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am short, Alien not needed. High left foot and and good crimp in the crack allows to go up, clip the bolt and lower back down to the restful stance. The move is secure and quicker than placing an Alien a foot below a bolt.
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Location: International : Thailand
By: patrick kadel When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love Tonsai but it has become an ecological nightmare. I guarantee you will have a blast climbing there and it can be done on the cheap at any time of the year, I also guarantee you will get sick. Some say this is part of the 3rd world experience. If taking 2-3 days of your trip being sick is acceptable then don't hesitate.
The problem is that the well for local water is fairly low and the hotels are fairly high. Water treatment? None. Garbage dumps are in between. So you have that leeching i... more >>
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Tyrolean Wall : Missing Snow (5.10c/d)
By: patrick kadel When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jugs, pockets, and 2" diameter columns...oh my. The rating on this one is way off. If you think this is 6b+ then climb the 6c+ to the left. Shouldn't be too much harder, right? Night and day. Could be the easiest 6b in Thailand next to the hardest 6c in Thailand. Fun route, one route everyone can get up. The climb to the left will bring you back to reality.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Peanuts (5.9+)
By: patrick kadel When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not read this site prior to climbing this today and looking up from the base I was not sure what holds there could possible be after the flake. I had more doubts than usual. Then, a short hand traverse put the biggest smile on my face. The vertical crack going to the anchors had some additional fun moves. It may be short and have an uninspiring start but this was a fun climb for me. I think not knowing of the hand traverse made it even sweeter, so don't read this.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: patrick kadel When: Oct 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traverses scare me, Rosy was no exception.
The Vertigo rap anchors around the tree have been removed. I sat there confused, but after a few minutes, I turned around and saw the new rappel bolts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Long John Wall (5.8)
By: patrick kadel When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route for the West Ridge. 1st pitch is awkward, but a great thread before the ugly moves gives good protection. So yes, an S rating is out of the question. After the crawl, you can place another good piece before heading back right into the crack which you can sew up as much as you want.
This climb has about 60' of nice climbing spread out over 300', but with great belay ledges, it works out well for the casual climber not looking for too much excitement.
The trees and rap anchors are in ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: patrick kadel When: Aug 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this last weekend after finding two groups of slow climbers massed at the first belay of the Yellow Spur, and more groups at Rewritten and Zot. So, using the trusty guidebook, I see this climb...never having given it a thought before this time. I was skeptical looking up at it, but things turned out much better than the glance from the ground inferred.
Like most before me, I did get a bit lost on the 3rd pitch where the crack tapers off. I did think about going straight up, actually m... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Hound Dog (5.11a)
By: patrick kadel When: Jul 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: At 5'7" the crux moves felt hard to me but I think if you are 5'10" or taller you avoid the difficulties. Maybe for the taller, the crux is located elsewhere as the hold 6" above my crux is very positive. So I'll chime in with 10+/11- and if you can reach 6" more than me I'll guess sustained 10-???
Overall, a nice climb to do while visiting Bell Buttress.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: patrick kadel When: Jun 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A word about the bee's nest...the hive is not on this route, it is about 10 feet to the right of the route and about 20 feet from where you will belay. It is a non-issue. Maybe the bees moved???
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