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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Garden of the Gods Boulderi... : Photo
By: Patrick J When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You might be thinking of the Wall of Winter Warmth, or something like that. It's a steep, thin slab that gets bouldered a fair amount. From the closed area, head 200 feet west, or 100 feet west from the Cowboy Boot Crack area. The traverse is supposed to go at 5.9, but I'd say it's harder with hold breakage. Fun area.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock
By: Patrick J When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Angle Tangle is an old A2 aid route on the east face of North Gateway, so yeah, the sign seems misplaced. Not sure where the falcon closings are, I'm sure someone else on here knows more specifically.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Garden of the Gods Boulderi... : Roadside Attraction (V-easy X)
By: Patrick J When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this roughly due west of Montezuma's, but across the road and down a hill? Is the dihedral left-facing? I think I've seen this line, just curious where exactly it is.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area : Unknown V7 aka Slapper (V7-8)
By: Patrick J When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the line that moves out the obvious set of slopers on the steepest part of the block. Super fun moves, always give myself blood blisters from slapping at the slick holds as hard as I can. There's a vid of a guy sending this somewhere on youtube....
Also, I think the problem on the east face of this block might be harder, I know it is for me.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area : Unknown V4 (V4)
By: Patrick J When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the same problem that's also posted as "Mongoose Block West Overhang"? Check out the description I posted over on that problem. They start in the same place for sure. I've never been sure about the grade on that one, I put it up here as a V2, but it could be harder. I only chose V2, because that's what I remember from when I first started climbing at the pit more than a decade ago... my memory sucks though, and part of the problem is that I can't figure out how to rate the... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area : Nose Lunge (V4)
By: Patrick J When: Jan 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That location sounds right. The starting hold and the finishing hold are both actually on the arete in between those two areas. It may not be dynamic, but it looks like it, and that's how I've heard it described.
Looking forward to the photos, I've been thinking about doing the same thing.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area : Nose Lunge (V4)
By: Patrick J When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I made a typo in the description- this is on the southeast corner, not the southwest as I had originally said. Right on the arete at maybe 7' is a blocky, chalked hold. Match on this, get your feet up, and throw for the lip. I've realized now that it helps to be short, it's just too hard to get your feet high enough otherwise. At least that's my excuse.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Anvil Rock
By: Patrick J When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a PDF guide to this area floating around the net that recommends parking on schnebly hill rd and hiking 25 minutes to the anvil boulders. Not the best way, I'd say. Got lost a few times, did a ton a bushwhacking- and now I know better. Otherwise, I like this area. Too bad it's not a little more pristine, considering all the wilderness in the area.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock
By: Patrick J When: Dec 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody know the route that starts about twenty feet to the left of Amazing Grace? It starts in a cave-thing and then traverses left for quite a while. It's got old-ish looking drilled pins, and is well-protected except the first pin is a good twenty feet off the deck. I've got four different guides and it's not in any of them. Seems pretty cool, and I'd never noticed it before, so maybe it's new?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Eagle Perch : Vitamin G (5.13a)
By: Patrick J When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hiked up there today, so here's my input. The hike isn't that bad, I went about ten yards past the gate and went straight up the hill, couldn't have missed the cliff. I could even see it at a few points just after leaving the road. There's no snow on the ground, even though the rest of the canyon has six inches, so that's cool. The cliff was nice and warm too, even though the temps were only about 40.
As for the route, it doesn't look all that hard, but I'm sure it is. I want to get up t... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : The Inferno (5.8 C3) : Photo
By: Patrick J When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, is it gonna go?
There are a few other bolt ladders in The Garden that look like they might go, like the notch direct on South Gateway. There was even a draw on that route this summer, got me thinking.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ruxton Canyon, Manitou Spri...
By: Patrick J When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out Stewart Green's topo for Tall Boy crag (part of pikes peak topo download) on his website, stewartgreen.com
There's a bunch of hard stuff, including what are probably the only 5.14s in the region, and a really nice 5.8 squeeze chimney. I'd post them here, but I never got the chance to climb any of the routes so someone else should get to that.
My old buddy Dave C. used to climb in Ruxton, and he's a super nice guy, if you ever run into him in Manitou I'm sure he'd help you out with m... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ruxton Canyon, Manitou Spri...
By: Patrick J When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speaking of climbing in Ruxton, I'd love to see updated Tall Boy info.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Patrick J When: Oct 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed here five or six years ago, and it was surprisingly fun considering how short the cliff is.
I always thought these routes made great top-rope problems, so it's nice that you're replacing the hangers but people should try this area out even if there are missing hangers.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area
By: Patrick J When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit of history- the Snake Pits hosted the first ever bouldering competition back in the early 1960s. Harvey Carter hosted it, judged it, competed in it, and apparently won (who would have thought?). Check out John Gill's website for more info.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : The Alive Dyno (V6)
By: Patrick J When: Oct 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okay, finally got it, so nix my first comment. A few things... need a good spot and a few pads. Normally I'm not too concerned with that stuff, but I took a couple bad falls off this. Also, topping out is pretty sketch, so be careful.
Such an awesome move!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : The Alive Dyno (V6)
By: Patrick J When: Oct 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is huge. I'd love to see someone get it, because I don't think it's possible... but maybe that's why I can't get it.
Anyway, is it any feet? The "paste your feet on" description makes it sound like the feet are small, but there are huge feet for this thing if you start it the way it looks in the guidebook, as in straight below the hueco.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Cube Boulder : North Face aka Wedgie and T... (V5)
By: Patrick J When: Oct 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this problem, the top out was spicy the first time I did it- didn't have a spotter and you're parallel to the ground if you blow it. As for rating, this is definitely easier than Floater in my mind, so V4 seems right-ish. I sent Wedgie from the sit after just a day or two, and Floater took me forever.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space
By: Patrick J When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back to those projects, anybody know if that 5.13ish route listed as a project in the first guidebook has been sent? Maybe the answer is in the newer guidebooks, but I'm stuck in chicago for the time being.
Also, the other project, has it been opened up?
I'm a sucker for gossip.
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