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Rock Climbing Photo: Mexico


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 57 mins ago
Contact Patrick Vernon

Point Rank: # 749
Total Points: 1,034
Last Year: 43
Last 30 Days: 1
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Vernon been climbing?










Contributions


All 930 | Routes 71 | Areas 7 | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 104 | Posts 159 | Stars 310 | Ratings 256
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Great route, but quite a bit of loose rock on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmmm, you would really have to know this route well to take the mentioned rack on it, the pitch isn't too long, but is one of the harder 9s in Eldo. The second pitch isn anything close to a death fest, there are one (or two?) pins at your waist, and two pretty good RP placements in the seam. It's really quite sane, even sewn up!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Descending from routes in this area is a bitch, yet if you know where the Pigeon Crack rappels are, you can save yourself quite a bit of hassle on the descent. This rappel is to left of Ruper (when facing it) and goes down a chockstone-filled chimney from two new big Metolius bolts. This rappel with a single 160 foot rope reaches a small ledge just off the upper ramp from which you can downclimb. From here you are are right on top of the Veritgo raps and can reach the ground easily. By far, this... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There is an alternate rap anchor to the right of Reggae (when facing it) two new bolts. This will get you to a ledge that lets you traverse to the rap anchors on the first pitch of Calypso, and is probably the safest descent. The walkoff to the left is sketchy with loose rock, and continuing to the summit is annoying (although it is a cool summit) this rap station is a nice thing to know about, you can use it to descend from routes on the South Face too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is probably a good route for the first .10a trad lead, it is well protected and not too hard for the grade, and an enjoyable route (better than it looks from the ground)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The descent for this route is low fifth class, time consuming, and rather scary!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Days of Heaven (5.10d)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is possibly my most favorite route in Colorado.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9+) : Photo
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: That second picture is pretty funny, a la Tom Cruise in MI:2. Wheres the hidden wire?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A red Metolius TCU, or FCU, or similar sixed cam fits perfectly where the pin used to be at the crux, so save this piece for the crux. If the routes to the left of it didn't exist, this would be the coolest 5.10 ever!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Five-Ten Crack (5.10a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is a short but very good climb, the protection is substanitially better than it appears from the base.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Tooth Slab (V-easy)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: These are beautiful slab problems, a very good way to get used to Lumpy footwork. Amazingly, there are four problems that have gone no hands on this boulder, the easiest is slightly left of the small dihedral, right of it is another difficult no-hands problem. Right of this one is a very scary, no-hands problem up the right arete, the hardest is on the left side below an obvious chicken head. Doing these no hands is an excellent challange and good footwork workout.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Pat's Slab (V2)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this problem yesterday during a day long bouldering session at lumpy. I should have given this three stars, it has cleaned up right now to be a solid delicate tall 5.11 slab, and absolutely beautiful and aesetic problem that few know about. With a couple crash pads it is pretty safe. There is an easier variation to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Evangeline (5.11b A1)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A shoulder length sling is helpful between the first and second bolts, you can sling a protrusion and eliminate any runout.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The second roof on this climb is a little hairy; stiff for the grade without reliable protection.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10- PG13)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I have to agree with everyone here, it feels accurately rated at about .10c, the 9+ second pitch is definately not a giveaway either as it is pretty much overhanging and not the best gear towards the top, a clean fall right onto your belayer! Taller people have an easier time with this I think, at the crux I always climb higher than most people to avoid the stem which I don have the leg reach for. An excellent route that should not be missed though!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There actually two ways to do this pitch. After the initial finger crack one can go left up to a pin, or continue straight up and avoid the pin. Rossiter tells you to go straight up, I was confused and went left on some strenuous liebacking, still probably about .11a, perhaps a little more devious than going straight up? Going straight up to the belay from the pin looks really cool, however it gets .10+ in the old b.c. south and now gets .11d in the new guidebook!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I was looking in the guidebook today, and the runnout .8 crack I described for the start was listed as runnout .10! Its probably not that hard, but in retrospect it is harder than .8, maybe .9+ and definitely not a good fall potential. Why am I telling you this? Well it looks pretty simple from the ground, but is harder and definately dangerous.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Finger Crack (5.11b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is more like .11c on lead, very continuous and endurance oriented.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The R rating on this route is not necessary. The lower roof eats nuts and tcus. The upper roof has a jug on the right you can hang and place a bomber #1 cam from, and the moves out the roof (technical laybacking) are not too strenuous.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The 5.9 Route to the left of the south face was a much better route in my opinion. It was a little harder, a little looser, but a lot less crowded (we were the only party on the route). the 5.9 pitch is short, but very cool.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Hmm, the crux is getting to the finger jam, not incredibly hard but definitely a little scary, I couldn't get a very good RP, a fall off this move would not be great, if the RP ripped it would be disasterous. It's a little spicy after the crux also on .9+ terrain with bad RPs, but its over quickly and the upper .10+ climbing has good pro. A very fun pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Temporary Like Achilles (5.10b)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : D1 (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Steve, or anyone, I'm curious; has the joker ever seen a second free ascent? An onsight? It seems like one of the great free/trad challenges climbs of the front range (or america for that matter), yet I never hear of any climbers attempting to free it. It would be cool to see it onsighted some day.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Patrick Vernon When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Interesting Doug, My first time on this route I had the same experience as you did, I recall a sort of diagonal jamming/handtraversing deal to get to a really bad diagonaling hold, it seemed way harder than .12a. I went back to the route and tried the crux differently, you undecling the right diagonaling holds and can stand up and avoid this reach, this way is at most .12a, probably about as hard as the beginning. Deceptive sequence.


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