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The top of the tufa on Magma


Member Since: Oct 12, 2011
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Patrick Mulligan


Point Rank: # 497
Total Points: 1,261
Last Year: 406
Last 30 Days: 62
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Patrick Mulligan been climbing?










Contributions


All 908 | Routes 58 | Areas 15 | Photos 63 | Page Improvements | Comments 141 | Posts 104 | Stars 464 | Ratings 63
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Mothers of Invention (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Dec 2, 2014

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Comments: This thing must have cleaned up significantly. All the holds seemed solid, minus one or two towards the top. Thoughtful footwork makes this a good and soft intro to the 10c grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Mom & Apple Pie (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: It's thin, but it's all there. Good footwork is necessary to keep it at the grade.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Box Tops (5.11b)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: If you left a biner on the 4th bolt, I grabbed it yesterday. I'm happy to give it back, but didn't want to leave it there. Let me know. BTW, the climbing above that bolt is a couple of letter grades easier than the climbing to get there, although the distance between the bolts becomes greater.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: I know its illegal, but that thing would have totally gone in my backpack....


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Northwest Books (5.6)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: This route has a little bit of everything. We did it with my son for a quick day out. I'm not sure how folks can give this two stars. Its clean, a cool line with good exposure and some cool moves at a very easy grade.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : P.C.T. Cliff : Day Hike (5.9+)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: The anchors to the climb have been replaced. However, they've been moved about 15 feet up and to the right. The prior anchors were severely rusted (had started to flake) and were in an obvious water streak. You can place a directional in the strata above the old anchors and walk right to the new rap anchor.

I could not countersink and patch the old bolts but will come back with a hacksaw and patch the holes at a later time.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : P.C.T. Cliff : Happy Trail (5.7+)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun little route. There's a good little 5.10+ boulder problem start just to the left. its fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: The fourth pitch is by far the best of the climb IMHO. The Long crack pitches are fun but monotonous and the crux is a 2 move wonder. The fourth pitch has the most consistent and interesting climbing. It would be a waste to skip it. Its been years since I've last done it, but the climb to the top was fun as well and allows you to skip through the multiple parties often on the route.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : P.C.T. Cliff : Day Hike (5.9+) : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: For some reason I could not get the topo to stop. The zigzagging line is the line to the top, the vertical line is me hitting the save button


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Bowman Valley : The Cove : Long Shot (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Agreed on the Choss. There is some very fun thin edging at the top, but its very easy and at times necessary to pull on holds that look like they're held in by dirt and moss.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Bowman Valley : Candy Land : Rock n Rolla (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: There is a huge loose block that if not chalked with an x or a no would look like just the right hold about 2/3 up the corner below the roof. Watch for loose holds.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Box Tops (5.11b) : Photo (Copy)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: For reference, a 60M will just make it from the anchors on Box Tops with stretch, but a 70M is necessary to descend from the anchors at the top of All American and the two routes to the left.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Desiderata (5.10b)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: There was never a bolt here before the crack. It was fun fiddly gear when I climbed it between 2002 and 2005.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: Just a note on Rope Length. A 60M rope will only just make it from Box Top / Proof of Purchase anchors as well as Far East. From the anchors at the top of PFM or All American Arete or the corner left of All American Hand Crack you need a 70M rope.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: I've taken to leaving a note on the dash when parking in the pull out saying "out hiking car not abandoned" and have not had a problem since I was warned about a year ago. There is alternative and only slightly longer aproach parking at the Rest Area and walking down from the PCT if folks don't want to risk it. This time of year its really a evening only crag, as the rock is dark and the routes face sun almost all day.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : All American Arete (5.9+ PG13)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: It is possible to lead the corner left of All American to All American Arete as a single pitch and still lower with a 70M. A 60 would not work. There was approximately 7' of rope at the end.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Photo
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: This is great. The unknown route to the right of Proof of Purchase goes at 5.8 or so. Its a fun warm up although still needs to clean up.

Also bolt locations on Box Top and Proof of Purchase may not be accurate.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : The Babylon Crag : Proof of Purchase (5.9+ PG13)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: Due to the quality of the old bolts and the possible long falls (who would have though the climb would be bold given the 1st ascentionists)- 5/16th button heads and flaked rusty recalled leeper hangers - this climb should only be toproped. That said, having tr'd the route a few times, I don't know if the quality of the climb warrants a retro-job. To make the climb at all safe an extra bolt would need to be added (big slab / ledge fall from the crux).

Post up with your opinions. I have the ha... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b) : Photo (Copy)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: That is actually DOWT.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Sleeper (5.10c)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This route now has new 1/2" bolts courtesy of the ASCA. I was not able to remove the old 70's button heads (we were concerned about destroying the rock). I'll return with the right bit to drill out the heads and patch soon.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Malcolm's Route (5.9)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: There have been modern (4/19/14) bolts retrofitted to this route. There are modern 3/8ths in anchors added as well. Now you need 3 quickdraws and some thin nuts/cams in between for this route. It's run out to modern standards but to Toulumne standards is acceptable. The chain and links at the top are OK too.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Central Area : Dark Special (5.10a)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This area has seen some work in the last two years (today was 4/19/15) but someone added plated (rusted) washers to modern 3/8th in stainless hardware. Not perfect, but better than the old spinners that were here.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow : Left Side : Aja (5.10d)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Tape up. This enduro route is more about pain management than difficulty. It is now sharp but clean. Well protected, whoever added the modern 3/8ths hardware put plated (now really rusted) chains on this thing. I'll change it out the next time I'm here.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Rainbow
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: This area in the last two years has seen a lot of love. While there are still some issues to work out (whoever replaced the bolts used stainless bolts and plated washers (washers are rusted) most of the hardware looks good. Check recent comments for current status.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: Patrick Mulligan When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Laine, the original description in the guidebook had the route going up far right from where the bolt utilizing an easier face.

I personally thought the moves over the bulge at the bolt were harder than the moves getting into the finger crack. I also wasn't crazy about the gear above the bolts till the roof on the second pitch. I found myself wanting an offset Green/Yellow Alien or Totem Basic for the pod that provides the only real gear till the roof on the second pitch. That would have lo... more >>


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