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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Feline Stall Tactics (5.8)
By: paintrain When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its a heads up 5.8. Great climbing, but consider what you are pulling on and putting your feet on. It would have a line if it were at the gate, but it would soon be a different climb as well.
A couple extra hand sized pieces would have been useful. Long runners also, as it wanders around a little bit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : American Fork Twins : The Rookie Party (WI4)
By: paintrain When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any poaching beta would be appreciated. It looks fun. Nice work.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Looney Tunes (5.9)
By: paintrain When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its old school trad. Definitely more physical than touch and go. I give it at least 2 stars for the variety and the old school nature of its climbing.
PT
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Yosemite Crack (5.10a)
By: paintrain When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is great. Straight in straight on. No typical horizontals for rests that you usually get at TF. Its a pumper for being so short.
Matt
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Sentinel Crack (5.10a)
By: paintrain When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great crack climb. Not too bad on the run out lower easy section. Hands and fingers on reasonable overhanging terrain above with good pro. 3 stars.
Matt
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Sentinel Area : Lost Ego (5.8+)
By: paintrain When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs we did at taylors falls (and it only gets 1 star). A 3 camelot will get you through the wide at the top.
Matt
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Location: WI : Interstate State Park : Wisconsin Strip : Inside Corner (5.8)
By: paintrain When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was not worthy of the number of stars it recieved. Compared to the climbs at sentinel that only get one star(Lost Ego only gets one star - worthy of at least 3 - likewise for sentinel and yosemite crack).
The gear in general is intermitent. The crux is a bit tricky to protect. It takes large cams, but they are a bit dodgey (uneven cam distritubution in greasy pods). Below are good placements, but they won't keep you from breaking an ankle.
Go over to the minnesota strip or sen... more >>
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