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 ADVANCED
@ Grayson Highlands somewhere up near Rhody Gap


Member Since: Aug 30, 2011
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact P. Sully


Point Rank: # 1,417
Total Points: 406
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 1
11 Compliments
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All (417) | Routes (25) | Areas | Photos (11) | Comments (101) | Posts (23) | Stars (234) | Ratings (23)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VA : Hidden Rocks : Lower Hidden : Sky's the Limit (5.10b)
By: P. Sully When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: FA: Mitch Congdon/Paul Sullivan 1991

used a red lowe ball at the bouldery crux at bottom


Location: WV : Bozoo : Simpson Wall : Marge (5.11b) : Photo
By: P. Sully When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: short stout climbs with the crux near the ground...
don't blow it; good gear is waiting for your lead


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Great Impostor (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: a fun and interesting 5.9 with a slightly run out but easy finish


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Finger Stinger (5.8 R)
By: P. Sully When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: the whole flake up to the roof is expando and has a history of pins and gear ripping out.

you can get gear in the flake for sure; and i surely remember a nice green or purple camolot before the roof that seemed bomber. I used to love scampering up this one. but don't fall on the lower flake section if you can help it!


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Stinger Arete (5.9+)
By: P. Sully When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: FA: PS/PD 1995

Climbs nice 5.8 crack to a small ledge. From here, climb the exposed arete using the finger crack on the right side for pro and hand holds. Crux near the top as you leave finger crack and exit to the arete.

bring Pink Tri-Cam!

TR version using only the fingercrack goes at 5.11+


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Electric Boobs (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: P. Sully When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: yes the knee pads were a ridiculous accessory to wear on this lead! G Money does what he wants to do.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak - West Face : Madmen Only (5.10a)
By: P. Sully When: Feb 17, 2013

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Comments: this is a bad ass route


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Rites of Spring (aka Led He... (5.9 R)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 30, 2013

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Comments: FA: Matt Findley
gear a bit thin on this one


Location: WV : Bozoo : White Wall : Groove Machine (5.9+)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: If you go left & avoid the flakes it turns into 5.11 climbing with no/very little gear. You essentially end up on Bozooka. we TR'd this variation but never led it this way.

The classic "groove move" goes straight up till you hit the jugs. Kinda a heel-hook reach thing. I remember good yellow TCU here w/ a pink tricam back-up if you want it. hand traversing right to the jugs on Chunks Direct is only slightly easier and this route often gets led that way.

at the top you can also continue ... more >>


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bovine Area : Mad Cow Disease (5.8)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: FA: Paul Sullivan & Joel Maynard


Location: WV : Bozoo : Bovine Area : Tiers of Joy (5.12a/b)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Back in the day a no-falls TR ascent was still considered real climbing.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Rigor Wall : Fat City (5.7)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: The gear in the chimney is not great. Before you get to the roof, you can get a decent #0 purple TCU in the right wall.

you can get good cams in the roof but it has a hollow sound. I always put on in each side of the big detached block that forms the roof before I exit.

Fun route to TR but a bit spooky for a 5.7 leader.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Rigor Wall : The Bully (5.11-)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 15, 2013

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Comments: Ian Herring nearly on-sited the FA of this route. He had his hands on the finishing holds and slipped off, taking a big whipper.
Billy-Badass jumped on and cruised it. Very sustained thin climb. take extra yellow TCUs


Location: WV : Bozoo : Rigor Wall : Alaskan Vacation (5.10)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Paul DeLapp took a ground fall on an early attempt, badly spraining his ankle. This happened just before heading to Alaska to work as a commercial fisherman for the summer season. He returned that fall and sent the route. Short but hard climb.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Gold Fist (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: PS/PD

this one gets a bit awkward and off-widthy after the fist crack crux.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Spring Chicken (5.6)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: PS/PD

Good route for the grade. There are not many easier routes at Bozoo that aren't dirt gullies.

climb the wide crack up and right. Near the top you can climb straight up the face to the finish.

too many face holds and stems to call this an off-width, but a good lead none the less.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Double-Tier Wall : Mutts Furniture (5.8)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Dave Heinbach/PS


Location: WV : Bozoo : Necro Wall : Nosteratu (5.12)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: the correct spelling is Nosferatu

fingercrack start, then climb the web of finger cracks left of the big hole. finish up the dihedral.
the starting finger crack is classic 5.11
This route has never been led to my knowledge.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Rainforest Crunch (5.10)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Paul DeLapp/PS

very nice 5.10 climbing with good gear through the obvious crux near the top.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Peaceful Warrior (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: PS/Kris Oakes

nice 5.9 flake/crack leads to a 5.8 face.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Savory Truffle (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: PS/PD

Start by climbing thin face moves to gain the left facing flake/crack. A thin fingery crux leads to enjoyable climbing up a slightly run-out face to the top.

a nice lead if you are comfortable at the grade. This was the first route climbed in the savory area.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : The French Kiss (5.11d)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: This route is often TR'd after leading Savory Corner.

It has been led on gear but not sure if anyone has ever had a clean redpoint (Bill Saul?)

The gear is thin and very specific, but it is there. Very nice gymnastic route.

Start same as Savory Corner then immediately trend left up flakes to a crux bulge. Above this is a cruxy twin finger crack section that leads to nice 5.10 climbing to the top.

Highly recommended!


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : The Final Exam (5.11+)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Paul Sullivan
FFA: Johnathon Kingston

the original name for this route is "Slice of Life". I led this route many times but never got the redpoint.

JK told me he went out to Bozoo and sent this route early one morning before rushing back to VT to take a final exam. Not sure how he did on the exam but this route is CLASSIC.

the crux (fingercrack) is right off the ground and you may want a spotter to keep you from falling on the dagger shaped spike located directly below the start. the r... more >>


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : The Mighty Santos (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Matt Findley
follow nice left facing flake/face up to ledge. then a pumpy dihedral leads to the top.


Location: WV : Bozoo : Savory Area : Cleavage (5.9)
By: P. Sully When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: FA: Paul & Martha Sullivan
route starts by climbing over chockstone on left. follow obvious crack & dihedral to top. a 5.11 slab direct start has been done as well.


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