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Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Direct South Face (5.7 A0)
By: outdooreric When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the FA information is for Bastille Buttress; I'm not sure who did the FA of this climb, however.
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Location: NV : Reno - Carson City : Dinosaur Rock : Bloodshot (5.10a)
By: outdooreric When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found it difficult to want to commit to the thin upper face when there is a much easier arete just to the right. I also found the bolts to be spaced a bit far apart for this type of climb.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress
By: outdooreric When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just did The Perfect Lieback today and I didn't notice anything wrong with the anchor chains, maybe its been taken care of already.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Positively 4th Street (5.9)
By: outdooreric When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With good rope management and enough 1.5-3" cams, it is easy enough to link the first two pitches for a great lead. The rappel from the bolted anchor is 110' to the ground, so a single 70m rope will do the trick.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Vrain Dead : Vrain Dead (5.8+)
By: outdooreric When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux of this this was harder than Crooked Cross. The second pitch is short but fun and worthwhile if already there.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Sentinel : Crooked Cross (5.9+)
By: outdooreric When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree that the direct line is better. It didn't detract from the climb at all and seemed to be the way to go. It even had chalk on some of the holds. I used a #2 and #3 Camalot on the second pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : The Route to Mecca (5.7)
By: outdooreric When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the better of the two 5.7's here. You'll want a tiny cam .33" for the upper lieback dihedral move.
What's up with the cheap ass chain anchor? Make sure to save some skinny biners to fit through the tiny links as there are no hangers up there either.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : The Haj (5.9)
By: outdooreric When: Dec 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route while it lasts. The clean dihedral is easier and better than it looks from the ground. I ended up going up and left to the Route to Mecca anchor which adds about 40 feet of rubble strewn 4th class for an unimpressive ending to an otherwise good climb.
Is there an anchor to the right, too?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Soup Nazi (5.10a)
By: outdooreric When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this in relation to the route "Chicken Soup for the Soul"?
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Three Bears : Papa Bear (5.10)
By: outdooreric When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Three Bears : Goldilocks (5.5)
By: outdooreric When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be lead with a small rack and a little guile with tricky pro placements.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Little Amphitheater : Place Your Bet (5.6)
By: outdooreric When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I went the wrong way, but TRing this one felt harder than leading Grandpa's Belay.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Little Amphitheater : Grandpa's Belay (5.7)
By: outdooreric When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a reasonable lead for those with some experience. A 4-inch piece is nice for the upper crack, but a 3.5" will do in a pinch.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : Straight Edge (5.9+)
By: outdooreric When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It should be noted that the first rap on the descent described above is almost 100' long and one must trend a bit left to get to it. This is the way we went, too. I had intended to rappel MRC Direct, but wasn't comfortable spanning the gap to get over to that anchor.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : MRC Direct (5.9)
By: outdooreric When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done in one pitch (140') to the comfortable pillar at the base of Straight Edge.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Lower Infirmary Slabs : Mentally Infirm (5.10a)
By: outdooreric When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It may be a height dependent crux. By moving slightly right of the first bolt, there is a key crimp that allows for a long reach to the big ledge/jug above.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : This Ain't Naturita, Pilgri... (5.9) : Photo
By: outdooreric When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This doesn't look like the right climb for the picture.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Photo
By: outdooreric When: Mar 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only problem with using carabiners is that people think they're booty and take them home. There is nothing more frustrating than equipping an anchor only to find someone stole the hardware a week later.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Emergency Entrance (5.7)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yesterday, there were no slings on the tree to rap from. I continued up higher then had to downclimb a couple moves to get to Panic in the Gray Room's anchors. Be prepared to do the same or move out just below the tree and go up 15 feet of unprotected slab. The tree although its big enough, doesn't seem to be that securely rooted. I wouldn't recommend setting a TR off of just the tree alone.
I did find a #3.5 and #4 Camalot to be useful and you could go bigger if you wanted. By ... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Panic in the Gray Room (5.10a)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this climb is temperature dependent. I climbed it on a cool overcast day in February and it wasn't that bad, and certainly easier than "Acts of Contrition" on the Lower Slabs. Many of the bolts are a bit reachy, which certainly adds to the excitement level and makes it feel more difficult.
Watch out getting to the second bolt, if you were to blow that clip you might hit the boulder behind the start.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Politicians, Priests, and B... (5.10a)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just finished replacing the older bolts on PP&BB. No more spinner button heads. When I get my camera back from the shop, I'll submit some pics of the old ones. All three were 5/16", the first two button heads actually weren't too bad, but the highest (a short wedge type) was spinning in the hole. -Eric Sorenson.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Unknown Right of Fat Finger... (5.11)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description is a little misleading. The route starts out as a crack climb for the first 25 feet at least. Gear is required! When the climb gets steeper at the top, there are three closely spaced bolts. The bolted line is a bit contrived to me; following the strength of the rock rather than the obvious weakness. It seemed much easier to move right and join "Stony Middleton" rather than climb a few desperate face moves out of character with the rest of the route.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Stoney Middleton (5.8)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun variation that improves the quality is to climb the first half of "Unknown right of Fat Fingers" to under the bulge. Just before the bolts begin, move right into the corner. This adds a thin 5.9 lieback section (passing a currently fixed #0 TCU) and avoids the lower angle beginning. A good climb, but I think Big Dihedral is better.
Also, its easy to climb back left at the top and use the "Unknown right of Fat Fingers" rappel anchor instead of walking off.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress
By: outdooreric When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like some of these routes are listed out of order. According to the route description, "Stony Middleton" should be between "Unknown right of Fat Fingers" and "Table Manners".
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Little Flatiron Left [aka W... (5.6)
By: outdooreric When: Feb 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Confirm, 8 lead bolts plus a 0.75-1.5 inch cam.
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