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Member Since: Oct 30, 2008
Last Visit: May 19, 2014
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Point Rank: # 8,125
Total Points: 35
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Orlando been climbing?










Contributions


All 38 | Routes | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 1 | Stars 9 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jeremy following the mellow, but superb, face clim...

Jeremy following the mellow, but superb, face climbing on P1 of the Ramp.

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : The Ramp (5.7)

Jun 7, 2010

Matt cruising the final hand crack to the summit.

Matt cruising the final hand crack to the summit.

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Crackula (5.8)

Sep 1, 2009

The west side of Echo Canyon, featuring the Ramp (...

The west side of Echo Canyon, featuring the Ramp (A) and 606 on the Rudder (B), as seen from the top of Bush Shark. The unknown climbers are on Big T.

NM : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon

Aug 18, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : Tarred and Feathered (5.10c)
By: Orlando When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Try stainless steel zip ties; they're way more expensive than plastic, but they will last awhile and there's no way they will get removed unless someone has wire cutters.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : 96 Degrees (5.10d)
By: Orlando When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: Three months? Damn, those bolts didn't look that new and seeing that they were two different kinds of bolts, we thought for sure that it was someone's step-child project, at best. Sorry, Vaino, if we stole your line.
Might be a good idea to get Vaino's name into the FA. Just a thought.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : 96 Degrees (5.10d)
By: Orlando When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: This route is 96 Degrees, as in,” "It was 96 degrees in the shade. So hot in the shade." from the Third World song. It was bolted by myself (Orlando Romero) and Jeremy Aslaksen in record 104-degree temps during June '10. We climbed it on TR to clean it and figure out bolt placements, but since Jeremy was recovering from a busted foot and I was on the verge of heatstroke, we haven’t had a chance to redpoint it yet. So technically, someone else poached the FA (maybe DTP?).
On that note, when we... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
By: Orlando When: Feb 25, 2011

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Comments: Try stainless steel zip ties, available at most hardware stores. They're kinda expensive (maybe a buck each?) but work well and should last the life of the carabiner. Cheers.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound
By: Orlando When: Dec 8, 2010

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Comments: Hey all.
'Tis the season...for foothills bouldering! The rock is sticky, the bugs are gone and sending temps are plentiful.
But on that note, I was up at U-Mound yesterday evening and the rock looked like a friggen star-gazers map; almost every hold and discernible crystal on the more popular problems (read: most-visible problems) had a mondo blob of chalk on it. If you feel the need to tick your holds, especially if it's to put a mega-tick on anything and everything that even resembl... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Filet On (5.11-)
By: Orlando When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: I second the description - fun, steep, pumpy. Although I'm sure this has been climbed for years on TR, it's a quality addition to Cattle Call.
And I'd have to agree with the 11 rating, but it could have more to do with my shortness and laughable endurance trying to get to the jugs.


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Orlando When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: Locals update....I grew up in northern NM, and I've never met sketchier people in my whole life, myself included.
Low riders, heroin, drinkin' in arroyos and shootin' the guns...I'm starting to get homesick just thinking about it.

and PS: you're safe in regards to getting stabbed with a bayonet - we reserve that honor for cousins.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Orlando When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: Now unless I'm mistaken, schadenfreude loosley tranlates to "taking joy at the pain of others", or something along those lines, which could explain deliberately misplaced bolts...just kidding.
But seriously, I like the idea of changing the name to, using Jason's words,
"Hellen Kellar Had the FA"
Just a suggestion...
Cheers all.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: Orlando When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: I think Jeremy accidentally picked up the orange carafe the other morning and ended up with decaf, but come on, the Helen Keller comment was pretty funny and far less of a cheap shot than "perhaps you're not climbing the routes very well"....
I agree, though; don't take it too seriously, especially since Jeremy is a bit like the Mel Gibson of NM sport climbing (now THAT's funny AND timely). In his defense, the middle 2-3 bolts were all like 2 or 3 feet away, and mostly right, from the... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area
By: Orlando When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: Two bolts at the start of Sid Vicious? I don't recall seeing these before...perchance, maybe the 2 two bolts that got us all into trouble with the Forest Service?????


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area
By: Orlando When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Like Bill mentioned, you can put together a great, moderate day in the Sandias by warming up on the Ramp, clipping bolts on the Rudder's well-protected sport routes, then cooling down on the way out on Runnel Runner.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area : The Ramp (5.7)
By: Orlando When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: A good P1 variation tackles the face directly; look for a bolt 10-15 above the start. The face is clean and the rock is bomb. Although I wouldn't call the pro abundant, it's there when you need it and I never felt sketched. And my legs usually start shaking when I get 1 ft. above my gear...
For the grade, I think it's an excellent pitch.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Liberace's Anus (5.9-)
By: Orlando When: Feb 8, 2010

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Comments: Just thought I'd mention the long runout after the 5th bolt. It's fairly casual, 5.7ish, but runout nonetheless. Of course, if that doesn't sound like too much fun, it will protect well with a couple of small-medium cams.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crackula (5.8)
By: Orlando When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: Definitely go right on P2 and stay right all the way through the roof crux, as shown in C&T's photos.
Really nice. It's been awhile since I've been on Estrellita, but I'll go so far as to make the blasphemous comment that this route may be better overall...let the stoning begin.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Orlando When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Very few parties rope up for the knife edge. I'm one of them...
A few years back a buddy and I did it in Jan. or Feb. just for fun. You generally stay on the north side of the ridge, but since it was iced up, we had to stay on the south. There's a second "crux" near the top where the ridge steepens and it's a little trickier if you have to go to the south, as we did. Anyhoo, I pulled down on a big ol' block and it was fine. Behind me, my partner did the same and he was left holding an 80lb block... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake : Flake n' Bake (5.5)
By: Orlando When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Ditto Jason P's comments; just a great, easy little route that's an excellent intro to climbing trad. And many TR options all around when you're done. Try to score Barry and Rita's "yellow book" - it rocks.
And regarding the grade; there is not a single 5.7-5.8 move on this route, unless you're in stilettos. It's not picky about pro and given the low angle, you can take a rest pretty much anytime you'd like, IMO, and I'm a hack. Defintely 5.5, MAYBE 5.6 at the "roof".
I was u... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Garden Party (5.9)
By: Orlando When: Aug 18, 2009

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Comments: My usual more conservative counterpoint to Jeremy's beta...
From a belay in the notch to the top of the chimney, the pitch was a full, no rope left, 60m pitch. We missed the pin at the start; bummer, because I followed and there was 25 ft of rope between me and the first piece and I was looking at an UGLY pendulum whip into the opposite wall if I blew the traverse/downclimb. And it was a distinct possibility as my partner kept yanking on the rope because he couldn't hear me, 200ft away... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Spectator Wall : Vicarious Living (5.10c/d)
By: Orlando When: Jun 29, 2009

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Comments: Kick-ass! Was out there with Jeremy on Saturday and this route is very cool.
I (short, weak-ass hack) thought it was very stout for the grade; did an 11c and 10d at the Box last weekend and this felt harder. Some may also find it somewhat runout in sections, by some sport standards, but again, a very cool route.
Jemez Rock mentions something about 18 quickdraws; I counted 10 bolts on the second pitch and maybe (I lost track) a couple more on the first. There is an intermediat... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake
By: Orlando When: Oct 30, 2008

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Comments: Since you're up there anyway...
There's a pretty cool route that follows the arete on the right side corner of the F&B slab. It starts with tricky face climbing proteced with a bolt and then goes into easy and good finger/hand cracks. Then just layback the easy arete to the F&B anchor. Very easy on the arete but with fun movement and great position. And a good TR if you make sure to place some directionals on top.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: New Mexico rock modification discussionArizona & New MexicoOrlandoFeb 28, 2011

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Vicarious Living 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Spectator Wall

Flake n' Bake 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Flake n' Bake

Knife Edge Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Shield

Crackula 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Techweeny Buttress

New Kids on the Block 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Filet On 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Cattle Call Wall Area

Inchworm Arete 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Red Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Filet On

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Cattle Call Wall Area

New Kids on the Block

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Inchworm Arete

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ...

Flake n' Bake

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Flake n' Bake

Knife Edge

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Shield

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