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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 2,611
Total Points: 247
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Optimistic been climbing?










Contributions


All 957 | Routes 14 | Areas 4 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 34 | Posts 869 | Stars 30 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (1)

TR, 1 pitch, 50'

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Nov 4, 2014

Epiclepsy

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X (2)

TR, 2 pitches, 110'

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Jul 24, 2014

Shitty Mitty

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Jun 2, 2014

Yenta

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (5)

TR, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

May 22, 2014

100 Duros

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 10'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

La Mosca

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Alzheimer

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Baba

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Coordina Coordinator

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Lord of the Rings

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Paramuero

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Perello

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Jardiners sense fronteres

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Herbofilia

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

San Sebastian Tutla

North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico

Mar 12, 2012

Puig St Marti

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 24, 2011

Main Wall

Europe : Spain : ... : La Creveta

Apr 17, 2011

La Creveta

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: 000 c3

000 c3

Forums : Trad Climbing : ... : Post

Jun 24, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of 100 Duros.  Photo by Bob Olshan...

Nearing the top of 100 Duros. Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Europe : Spain : ... : 100 Duros (5.7)

Apr 24, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Sep 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wonderful route, particularly the very long and varied second pitch. Agree with the above comments about big gear not being needed. The biggest piece I used on the wide pitch was a green Camalot. Plenty of gear inside the crack. Wires extremely useful here, as with everything else we climbed at Lumpy.

As far as we could see, the second rap anchor on the west descent had been chopped (2 little shreds of webbing visible), and we replaced that. No offense intended if an accident occurred here or i... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Trifle (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Overall kind of a strange climb, a bit dirty and wandering, but an engaging adventure. Did the p1 traverse in a downpour which was cool.

Did the "Trusty Feet" variation to p2 described in the Gunks app: climb straight up from the p2 tree, not much pro, nested a gray and purple c3 about 20 feet above the ledge and was glad I did, past an almost buried pin (needs to be tied off) and then up some interesting face and slab moves (6+,supposedly) to a rail that leads to jugs and the GT.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The two angle pitons that are part of the p1 anchor on this route are severely corroded and should not be trusted (look at the right side of the right one and the (completely missing) left side of the left one. The knifeblade looks OK but appears to be of similar vintage so who knows. I'd consider backing this gear up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Immaculate Virgin (5.6 PG13)
By: Optimistic When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to prot... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really cool route but surprisingly short! As others have said it's really important to protect the second as they do the final move onto the summit, using something in the red C3 kind of size. It would not be at all good if your second took that swing.

I think some of the comments about the mantel are a little extreme. You can get several quite good cams which will be at your feet for the move. I think 7 is pretty fair.

People are quite right about needing a tiny rack. A long piece of cord i... more >>


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