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Red Rock, Cannibal crag


Member Since: Jul 18, 2012
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact OldManRiver


Point Rank: # 2,294
Total Points: 219
Last Year: 171
Last 30 Days: 120
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Areas are worth 15
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All (226) | Routes | Areas | Photos (39) | Comments (24) | Posts (103) | Stars (48) | Ratings (12)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: this pic really captures the beauty of the City.. nice work :)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Bad Crack (5.10a/b)
By: OldManRiver When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: makes sense, thanks!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Bad Crack (5.10a/b)
By: OldManRiver When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: I'm confused. There are three bolted routes in this section but this site says there are five.

The description and layout suggest this may be the same as Built for Comfort.

my impression:
left route: 9+ to soft 10a
middle route: easier but more sustained 5.8ish
right route: crosses the vertical crack under the bush, 5.9 or so little technical at the crux for a 5.8 imo

Not exactly a big deal but curious to know wtf is going on with 5 sport routes on a wall with three bolt lines.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Failure to Launch (5.9)
By: OldManRiver When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I recommend bringing a large cam (#4/5 C4 or comparable) to protect the traverse. And slings to minimize drag with the zig-zag the route requires.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lisa Falls : Lisa Falls West : Mad Millennium (5.9)
By: OldManRiver When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: fun lead, more balance-y than I expected. Great views, by a stream, very enjoyable route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: OldManRiver When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Curious how many splitboarders/groups have done this in spring (snow) conditions. Not really sure if this is a dumb question or a thing splitters haven't really thought of.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+) : Photo
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: so sick


Location: Princess Mia : Indian Creek : Photo
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: #3 camalots? Curious about the wall.. that looks like a neat route in a good size for me


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : The Melting Mud Wall
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: ^ +1. IME topo is great. First time i climbed there another group had it. Last time I had it and another group needed beta.

Love this wall.. the wall is reasonably clean with consistent grade and a lot of fun to climb.. flakes, pockets, jugs, monos, the whole range. Still need to be careful on belay for choss but you should be paying attention anyway.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : I&I (5.10-)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 25, 2012

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Comments: There are some big sections.. having 3 #4s was very helpful... and I tugged on a cam once. So maybe not so much of a flash ;)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : The Runaway (5.10-)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: sandbag rating. I thought .10b or strong .10a


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Coral Bells Arete (5.9)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: 0.5 camalot for the flake set well. Love the start!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: 60m 10.1mm rope was just long enough to not require down climbing


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Antidote (5.10a)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: sustained, makes you plan your rest well. Very enjoyable lead, well protected and good feet at the anchors. Plus you have an amazing view..


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Rat Bastards (5.9+)
By: OldManRiver When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: 10- or 9+, nice pull near the top that makes you think about foot placement. Really cool layback section under the crux and a good mix of holds.

all the routes on this wall are bolted very well for beginning leaders.. nice work


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Early Bird Crag : King Cobble (5.10c)
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: great, consistent route with a couple fun steep sections. Good rest spots mixed in to let you shake out between the steeper stuff.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Banana Peel (5.10a)
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 21, 2012

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Comments: tough start and it keeps you thinking despite being slabby. Cool mix of holds from the occasional jug to tiny tiny pockets.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Unknown 5.8 (5.8)
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: good lead practice, well bolted and good rock.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Ambush Wall : Bong A Long (5.9+)
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Good route to practice leading. The route seems to be pretty clean now, no issues with loose rock or too much dirt. Lots of holds and solid feet. Seemed like a 5.8+/5.9-, a few sections you have to pull through with high feet.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Vaporous Apparition (5.9)
By: OldManRiver When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: well bolted, fun route. Great holds/feet to the bulge, little thin above. Very fun route


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Suicide Blonde (5.11b)
By: OldManRiver When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: probably the most fun I've had to start a route


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : The Edge (5.9)
By: OldManRiver When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: I really like the traverse 3/4 up to the jug. Interesting twist for a route of this grade. Nice route!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Black Hash (5.9+)
By: OldManRiver When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: A little on the pumpy side, though that could be b/c it was a first climb for me on the route. Lots of good hands and feet, great views. Rock is a bit unstable immediately above chains chains to left fyi.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : On the Skids (5.8)
By: OldManRiver When: Aug 7, 2012

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Comments: 5.8+ due to the slippery start. After that it's much more manageable. Enjoyable route with a lot of options.