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Having fun on West Crack


Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2009
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Point Rank: # 5,303
Total Points: 10
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 1
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has oldbull been climbing?

oldbull

 
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All (8) | Routes | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (5) | Posts | Stars (1) | Ratings (1)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: oldbull When: Jul 14, 2009

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Comments: Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Darth Vader's Revenge (5.10a PG13)
By: oldbull When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: A very fun climb.....fun traverse out right early on to a so-so nut that protects the move after the traverse and on your way up to the bolt under the small roof. Stellar position getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over....moderate slab moves find you for the home stretch to the chains.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: oldbull When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: Just did this climb over the Easter weekend. Absolutely stellar from beginning to end. Please heed the comments above regarding the climbing to the first two bolts....5.9 to the first and 5.8 to the second...definitely in "don't fall" territory. I agree with Randy that no cam should be placed in that flake after the second bolt....Just go for it and everything will work out okay. I actually found the area below the second to last bolt the most challenging. What people are calling the crux a... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: oldbull When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Great fun climbing....changes character bottom to top. Slab climbs are never supposed to feel "secure" in the sense of a good hand jam....that's the allure. May be 10a at other climbing locals, but felt like a very honest 9 to me. The cruxs come low. Great view from the top!

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: oldbull When: Apr 6, 2009

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Comments: I've done this a few times now and it's a great ride. Down low is a little spicy as you are high enough above a .4 camalot going for the first bolt that a fall should not really be in the equation. Not sure about the traverse getting more slippery!? Not really all that bad....and the move getting into the dihedral is cool too! Great and memorable climb.