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Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Colonel Mustard

Point Rank: # 490
Total Points: 1,404
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 1
14 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2912 | Routes 74 | Areas 11 | Photos 41 | Page Improvements | Comments 294 | Posts 1303 | Stars 1102 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: How much for the pair?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: A single #2 camalot works just fine.


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Arco Iris : Positive Affect (5.12a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Holy crap, that's some immaculate looking stone. Second it looking like a glacier, I thought it was ice at first glance. Wow!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Duh mange, mang!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Rack shaming is a form of bullying.


Location: Jon Ruland : Me : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: You filthy little minx, of course I'll meatdeck your boyfriend and make out with you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Foreshortening. Look it up, geniuses.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: To echo Brennen, I saw a car in the $10 pay lot had been broken into yesterday. Driver's side window completely shattered. Part of the problem it seems is that the pay lot is largely out of sight from the busy 49, so thieves are relatively protected while they do their dirty little deeds.

Pay to play and get robbed, it seems. I'd park out on the 49, at least there is traffic streaming by so that these thieving cockroaches have to do their scuttling out in the open.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: Currently, at least the washers on the first three bolts I sampled appear to be sporting rust. I down climbed from the crux bolt (which also has a quick link placed on it - not mine) because it was also spinning in addition to the rust coat on the washer. I didn't have a wrench handy (lotsa spinners at Auburn yesterday for some reason) and didn't want to brave the more difficult section with an uninspiring anchor situation. Tightened down, it's probably good, though the rusting washers beg a few... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Woodfords Canyon Boulders
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Ron(g), I hope you exhibit more good sportsmanship in your other outdoor pursuits than you do here. It is clear nothing much has changed about Woodfords other than you now are a hater of the tribe you once belonged to. Your contributions have entered the public sphere, you don't get to just take your toys and go home now that you quit. Believe it or not, I respect the work you have done, I am sorry your life brings you to this dim view of others who also love the same pursuit you once did.

Mayb... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: As a party wall, two two-man team of maggots, we got up this thing rapidly after a crack of noon start, which, I think, is a major bonus of the Pine Crick style.

Pitch 2 felt head's up (what do I know, I just followed it).

The pitch 3 crux felt very manageable, though I hit a portable foothold and blew it. It's a very cool opposing crimp seam that would absolutely bludgeon you were it angled any higher than a dummy dome.

There's some cool stuff in between, but the character of the last two p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PBR Street Gang (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The roof pitch crux seems about as hard as anything else on the route, it just looks intimidating as all get out. It definitely ranks up there as one of the hardest looking moderate things I've climbed in a while. It seemed simply like 5.9? There's a second before I turned it around from the establishing jams and realized I was on an easy lieback slab section that I thought maybe it was as hard as advertised. But no.

Delightful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Speed Bump (5.6)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: Huh.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Per the comment above, I found the route pretty equivalent in terms of difficulty to EB of El Cap. I rec'd it on that basis to a couple who had just got off this one, anyway. Certainly, this is a better quality climb.

For a semi-adventurous linkup option, I would propose Supertopo pitches four and five (using the 5.10a 50 classics option). It is very nearly 70m of climbing, but you want a lot of slings because rope drag could be a killer due to the traversing nature. I didn't place any pro afte... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: For what it's worth, you can go straight up at the "pimple" hold without actually using it. It involves small sloping holds just slightly right of the nipple/pimple/pea, and a lot of one-legged pressing and balance.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Donner Pass Road : ... : Bypass (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a firm entry in the Snowshed Sleeper Classic Circuit. It drips with exudate of LOB (Locals Only Brah).

Somehow, it's a line that just blends into the scenery and is easily overlooked. Once you climb this route, you realize the fun you were missing.

Varied movement, from liebacks, to a bit o' wide, to a roof more at home in the sport climbing idiom, you really can't go wrong. I like a single #4 camalot a bit lower on the route and doubles of fingers to #3 camalot. My go to ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: CrimperE6, please put your flag back in your pants. There are bolts and "convenience anchors" at this crag. It is the accepted local ethos at this "gym" and has been for decades. No need for renewed bolt battles because your aesthetic is disturbed. Go over to Star Wall and write the latest rant to be ignored by local climbers on the subject of fixed gear while you're at it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: I truly appreciate the route description, you smart ass!

I'll have to get on those pitches next time.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: I would disagree on several counts. Certainly, what I characterize as the "money pitch" is mid-5.10 climbing. It is also good, and memorable climbing.

Second, if you actually top out the climb, you shall - as near as I can tell - encounter several pitches of much "trouble, route finding, and gardening" no matter what you do, so good luck with that.

I will admit to not spotting the proper line to the money pitch from below. I did want to do the original line, but what I thought looked like the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This a memorable route. The quality pitch (2nd or 3rd, as described above) is continuously vertical with jams and face climbing. If it were slightly more buffed up and on the ground, it would be very well known and traveled.

Pitch 1: The 5.7 approach pitch as described by John Robinson. Belay on bolts directly under the distinctive, right leaning crack of North Face.

Pitch 2: Down and to the right, then up a column to the bushy ledge, clipping the two anchors for Absolutely Brilliant, then Dr... more >>


Location: NV : Mount Charleston : Universal Wall
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: A mediocre climber full of righteous trad ethics that at the base he doesn't even respect (FA prerogative being a large part)? Move aside Mr. Howard, LV has a new name in internet ass hattery.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : The Peaks Crag : ... : 5.10 Fever (5.10+ PG13)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: As I recall, there was either a highball start more left, then moving right, then, later, a more direct 5.11- bolted version to this climb? Did the "direct" version get the chopsky? I recall it was Manny Rangel that bolted (or re-bolted) that direct start, or maybe he just told me about it while we were at the crag. Either way, for sustained, technical, and yet burly dihedral, this thing really rocked my world. What a fun climb! If you are feeling dialed, it will flow, and, if not, you will abso... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Dylan, I approached it via the chossy gully to the left of the 1st pitch anchors. You go up about 10-15' where there are large dikes to traverse on the climb and go up a bit more to the first bolt, probably 15'-20' above the belay. I placed a #3 in the choss above the anchor for a jebus nut, but not sure how well that would have held. It's easy climbing, and that first bolt is probably where it is due to the exfoliating nature of the start. Fortunately, that is the only crap rock on the cl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Absolutely Brilliant (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: My partner and I led this. The climbing is superb. There is some green-ness about the route with some pebble exfoliation, but all the feet and hands seemed to be staying put.

The problem with both in the party leading is the clean up. I would highly recommend somebody TR it to clean because I lowered off the chains and the resultant sawing of the rope across dikes was not a warm fuzzy situation. The climb is well left of the anchors so you are swinging back and forth... Not fun.

Additionally, ... more >>


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