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Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 494
Total Points: 1,428
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 24
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 2956 | Routes 75 | Areas 11 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements | Comments 298 | Posts 1320 | Stars 1122 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Black Hole Sun (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Weird.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This crag breeds rating squabbles like a hydra sprouts heads, and I'm afraid I'll add my 0.02 to the boredom. The start feels like 5.11+ to this fat boy. Far harder movement than anything encountered on Beast of Burden. Of course, if you're a crimp happy featherweight, I could see how it feels trivial. Yes, I can think of some 5.11- climbs with moves as hard, but we generally agree to call those sandbags.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : The Blocks : Blue Note (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: I could maybe see a letter grade or two adjustment, but this is simply not a 5.11 anything. How do I know, you ask? I onsighted it.

Those 1/4" button heads up to the fifth bolt (which is upgraded hardware) lent a little urgency to my lead. When I got the third button head clipped, I felt good because I thought "hey, both won't pull... right?" (you would deck from the 2nd).

Patina crimping, high foot rock overs, and some traversing into a bit o' knob heaven... Not a bad climb!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Thanksgiving (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: We thought the upper crux was comparable to the lower crux. Either way, this is very enjoyable climbing with thoughtful knob climbing and jams and two bolts right where they are needed. One of the larger RPs slotted perfectly in the high laser thin crack, otherwise, pro beta of fingers-sized cams to #1 camalot with a single #3 camalot suffices nicely. Plenty of stopper placements.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: How much for the pair?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: A single #2 camalot works just fine.


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Arco Iris : Positive Affect (5.12a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Holy crap, that's some immaculate looking stone. Second it looking like a glacier, I thought it was ice at first glance. Wow!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Duh mange, mang!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Rack shaming is a form of bullying.


Location: Jon Ruland : Me : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: You filthy little minx, of course I'll meatdeck your boyfriend and make out with you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Foreshortening. Look it up, geniuses.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: To echo Brennen, I saw a car in the $10 pay lot had been broken into yesterday. Driver's side window completely shattered. Part of the problem it seems is that the pay lot is largely out of sight from the busy 49, so thieves are relatively protected while they do their dirty little deeds.

Pay to play and get robbed, it seems. I'd park out on the 49, at least there is traffic streaming by so that these thieving cockroaches have to do their scuttling out in the open.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.11d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: Currently, at least the washers on the first three bolts I sampled appear to be sporting rust. I down climbed from the crux bolt (which also has a quick link placed on it - not mine) because it was also spinning in addition to the rust coat on the washer. I didn't have a wrench handy (lotsa spinners at Auburn yesterday for some reason) and didn't want to brave the more difficult section with an uninspiring anchor situation. Tightened down, it's probably good, though the rusting washers beg a few... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Woodfords Canyon Boulders
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Ron(g), I hope you exhibit more good sportsmanship in your other outdoor pursuits than you do here. It is clear nothing much has changed about Woodfords other than you now are a hater of the tribe you once belonged to. Your contributions have entered the public sphere, you don't get to just take your toys and go home now that you quit. Believe it or not, I respect the work you have done, I am sorry your life brings you to this dim view of others who also love the same pursuit you once did.

Mayb... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: As a party wall, two two-man team of maggots, we got up this thing rapidly after a crack of noon start, which, I think, is a major bonus of the Pine Crick style.

Pitch 2 felt head's up (what do I know, I just followed it).

The pitch 3 crux felt very manageable, though I hit a portable foothold and blew it. It's a very cool opposing crimp seam that would absolutely bludgeon you were it angled any higher than a dummy dome.

There's some cool stuff in between, but the character of the last two p... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PBR Street Gang (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The roof pitch crux seems about as hard as anything else on the route, it just looks intimidating as all get out. It definitely ranks up there as one of the hardest looking moderate things I've climbed in a while. It seemed simply like 5.9? There's a second before I turned it around from the establishing jams and realized I was on an easy lieback slab section that I thought maybe it was as hard as advertised. But no.

Delightful.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Speed Bump (5.6)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: Huh.

I'd like to say "Upgraded" was added to my description by somebody else.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Per the comment above, I found the route pretty equivalent in terms of difficulty to EB of El Cap. I rec'd it on that basis to a couple who had just got off this one, anyway. Certainly, this is a better quality climb.

For a semi-adventurous linkup option, I would propose Supertopo pitches four and five (using the 5.10a 50 classics option). It is very nearly 70m of climbing, but you want a lot of slings because rope drag could be a killer due to the traversing nature. I didn't place any pro afte... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: For what it's worth, you can go straight up at the "pimple" hold without actually using it. It involves small sloping holds just slightly right of the nipple/pimple/pea, and a lot of one-legged pressing and balance.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Donner Pass Road : ... : Bypass (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a firm entry in the Snowshed Sleeper Classic Circuit. It drips with exudate of LOB (Locals Only Brah).

Somehow, it's a line that just blends into the scenery and is easily overlooked. Once you climb this route, you realize the fun you were missing.

Varied movement, from liebacks, to a bit o' wide, to a roof more at home in the sport climbing idiom, you really can't go wrong. I like a single #4 camalot a bit lower on the route and doubles of fingers to #3 camalot. My go to ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner Summit : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: CrimperE6, please put your flag back in your pants. There are bolts and "convenience anchors" at this crag. It is the accepted local ethos at this "gym" and has been for decades. No need for renewed bolt battles because your aesthetic is disturbed. Go over to Star Wall and write the latest rant to be ignored by local climbers on the subject of fixed gear while you're at it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: I truly appreciate the route description, you smart ass!

I'll have to get on those pitches next time.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: I would disagree on several counts. Certainly, what I characterize as the "money pitch" is mid-5.10 climbing. It is also good, and memorable climbing.

Second, if you actually top out the climb, you shall - as near as I can tell - encounter several pitches of much "trouble, route finding, and gardening" no matter what you do, so good luck with that.

I will admit to not spotting the proper line to the money pitch from below. I did want to do the original line, but what I thought looked like the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This a memorable route. The quality pitch (2nd or 3rd, as described above) is continuously vertical with jams and face climbing. If it were slightly more buffed up and on the ground, it would be very well known and traveled.

Pitch 1: The 5.7 approach pitch as described by John Robinson. Belay on bolts directly under the distinctive, right leaning crack of North Face.

Pitch 2: Down and to the right, then up a column to the bushy ledge, clipping the two anchors for Absolutely Brilliant, then Dr... more >>


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