Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard


Member Since: Sep 13, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Colonel Mustard

Point Rank: # 502
Total Points: 1,451
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 15
16 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Colonel Mustard been climbing?










Contributions


All 3049 | Routes 75 | Areas 11 | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 311 | Posts 1359 | Stars 1159 | Ratings 89
Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall : Hole in the Wall (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This climb was also one of our party's favorites. It has a bit of graininess to it but nothing that detracts from the climbing. I placed a couple small finger-sized pieces but that was about it. They were kind of nice down low but probably not mandatory but the book said pro to 2" so I took a bit of rack with me.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall : Tastes Great (5.10c)
By: Colonel Mustard When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This sounds exactly like the climb the Mammoth area guidebook calls Proud Arete?

A great climb nonetheless with fun crack moves and great, steep face climbing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Our party thought the crux of the first pitch was around the 1" crack that runs through the roof. The climbing above the OZ anchors just didn't seem that hard, more like watch your feet and grab the jugs and crimps.

The second pitch was much easier, but it was nice to have a pitch not as scrunched up and pumpy as the first.

We did a third pitch at the closer of the two suggested intermediate belays in the Supertopo. With some judicious slinging, rope drag wa... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Eeyore's Enigma (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A #5 BD cam is nice for the chimney belay after the second pitch.

Pitch two is the business! I haven't worked that hard for 5.10a in a while. When you get squeeze/chimney/o-dub action going on it gets pretty thug nasty pretty quickly.

I found the noted crux in the description went pretty well with some wide hands, some fists, and careful stemming and chimneying with the crux coming around the first corner to the offwidth that leads up to the squeeze roof. I walked/lea... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Aug 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Well, I finally got on the first two pitches and I would like to nominate Salamanizer's route description one of the most hilarious on mp.com. I chuckled as I reviewed it en route. And yet I somehow missed the precarious tip toe traverse and believe I wound up at the Cheap Shot anchor ledge?

Never to fear, I was able to traverse over using a good hand rail a bit down and right of the Cheap Shot anchors, clip a bolt mid-traverse and then up to the original anchors. I clipped ... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jul 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Venturi Effect anchors from Red Dihedral is standard? For Positive Vibrations, that is the case, but I'll be a summit endorsing ass pimple and say that if you're doing Red Dihedral, the birthing canal pitch to the summit register is well worth doing. It's not that bad to descend via the single rap and talus scramble down the south gully. It's also fairly in line with the rest of the route compared to two pitches of t... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I was going to say that this route is just a smidgen less good than it's more famous eponymous neighbor (The Line), but that's not true. It's better. You don't have the line of folks lining up for The Line on this one.

It looks a bit mungy from the start, but the small flora and some moss don't actually impact where the climbing is at. But, sure if you like your climbs shaved bare, I can underst... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Dear John Buttress : Tag Team (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Jun 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing is not awful and is actually interesting, but there's a rope eating crack at the end of the traverse out of that roof that would seem to require more protection engineering than this route is really worth.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Cheesy Puff (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I was told by one of the FA's this was 5.9! Sandbagged again!

A high speed video of me dancing onto and off the crux from the ledge would be highly amusing. That was a solid 15-20 minutes of whining.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : White Bronco (5.11a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Like that infamous news day, the White Bronco proved to be an exciting diversion.

The start gave me an adrenaline goose that kept on giving all the way up this climb, which is fairly sustained and thoughtful all the way to the anchors.

I'm hesitant taking the 5.11b onsight on this rig, I think the grade may be more in the 5.10d to 5.11a range but that will await consensus. Honestly, I was so worked up for the initial roof moves, I couldn't be relied on for an accurate grade.

A couple small/me... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Slow Speed Chase (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding pitch 1 only, I didn't move left around the corner at the bulge for the more oblique/easier approach. It was, ah, how do you say, direct? Direttisimo? My tunnel vision added some oomph but it was sorta fun this way with some stemming and sloper sidepull mojo. The patina of the rock is very interesting, Mr. Wolfe was kind of enough to explain that it was probably a deposit of limestone seeping onto and covering the rock. It takes a minute to get used to this change i... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Break it Out (5.9+)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I may need to amend the anchor situation I posted in the description if nobody fills me in, but I just climbed this yesterday and we didn't find the anchors this time (I followed). So either they have been yanked or we just suck. I can say that there are anchors to the right for Ice Pirates (not a good option at all - actually directly level with and to the right of where you do the final mantle) and Black Magic (a better option but you really need to protect from the pendulum) but you ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Black Magic (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: May 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The pins may have pulled, I didn't see them. Very cool stem climbing on Tuolomne-esque pebbles with some jamming thrown in. It is hard to tell from below but it protects very well with small cams in the dihedral.

I came out a little moss sprinkled at the end, but besides a little seep at the bottom, this line climbs great. Overall this North Star Wall area is deserving of more traffic from the 5.10 leader and boasts fun to classic climbs.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Black Hole Sun (5.10d)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Weird.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This crag breeds rating squabbles like a hydra sprouts heads, and I'm afraid I'll add my 0.02 to the boredom. The start feels like 5.11+ to this fat boy. Far harder movement than anything encountered on Beast of Burden. Of course, if you're a crimp happy featherweight, I could see how it feels trivial. Yes, I can think of some 5.11- climbs with moves as hard, but we generally agree to call those sandbags.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : The Blocks : Blue Note (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I could maybe see a letter grade or two adjustment, but this is simply not a 5.11 anything. How do I know, you ask? I onsighted it.

Those 1/4" button heads up to the fifth bolt (which is upgraded hardware) lent a little urgency to my lead. When I got the third button head clipped, I felt good because I thought "hey, both won't pull... right?" (you would deck from the 2nd).

Patina crimping, high foot rock overs, and some traversing into a bit o' knob heaven... Not a bad climb!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Thanksgiving (5.10a)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Apr 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: We thought the upper crux was comparable in difficulty to the lower crux. Either way, this is very enjoyable climbing with thoughtful knob climbing and jams and two bolts right where they are needed. One of the larger RPs slotted perfectly in the high laser thin crack, otherwise, pro beta of fingers-sized cams to #1 camalot with a single #3 camalot suffices nicely. Plenty of stopper placements.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Feb 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: How much for the pair?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : The Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A single #2 camalot works just fine.


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Arco Iris : Positive Affect (5.12a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Holy crap, that's some immaculate looking stone. Second it looking like a glacier, I thought it was ice at first glance. Wow!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Duh mange, mang!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Rack shaming is a form of bullying.


Location: Jon Ruland : Me : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: You filthy little minx, of course I'll meatdeck your boyfriend and make out with you.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Colonel Mustard When: Nov 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Foreshortening. Look it up, geniuses.


Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!