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A brilliant climb.


Member Since: Dec 9, 2005
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Ol' Toby


Point Rank: # 1,835
Total Points: 314
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 2
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ol' Toby been climbing?










Contributions


All 1545 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 50 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 28 | Stars 758 | Ratings 664
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Like Honey (5.12a/b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Worthy. The boulder problem at the fourth bolt and the traverse into the Walter B crack both feature quality technical sequences on superb quality rock.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Blue in the Face (5.12c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Quality climbing on this one. Athletic sidepulls on positive holds lead to a balance move to gain the dihedral, immediately followed by a deceptive power move to the next clipping stance. More cool finger-slot sidepulls then lead up to a final, easier crux. Deserves more traffic.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Twelve Gauge IQ (5.12)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is really fun. Despite it's bolted nature, the dihedral climbing is high quality on beautiful stone and the roof succumbs to good beta and a few gymnastic pulls. No doubt easier than the other .12c I've tried at Index.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : The Passenger (5.11+)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Superb route! The start is further down the gully than we originally thought. You can't simply traverse the wall from the South Arete, but rather have to head away from the wall a bit and down the gully for 10 minutes or so. Once the ledges leading up from the gully in Blake's beta photo come into view the start is obvious. The second pitch roof is a good landmark.

I linked pitches 2 and 3 with a 70M rope and had plenty left over. My partner and I agreed this was the best climbing on the r... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Black Ice (5.13b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Great long pitch with fun powerful sequences that keep the pump going til the bitter end. Full 70M needed if belaying from the main ledge; tie a stopper knot!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Black Cat Bone (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: One of the more egregious examples of crack bolting I've seen. A shame, since the climbing is quite good. A few bolts to protect the move from the stance into the crack system and to protect the finish would suffice to keep the route from being R-rated.

There is no anchor at the top of the crack system as the guidebook indicates, nor is there one out to the right, so the route culminates with the steep 'n pumpy bolted finish of 12-gauge IQ.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Bog : Iron Helix (V6)
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: This problem is also great in the summer, as long as you don't mind pulling on with wet shoes.

An easier variation heads up and right from the same start as Iron Helix.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Reckoning (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Another vote for the crux pitch as one of the best in Eldo. Thoughtful and powerful moves crescendo to an OK shake before the final crux sequence. A green and/or yellow Alien protects the opening moves before the first bolt. Working this route while hanging out on the terrace is part of the fun, sitting on top of the West Ridge and taking in the view. Awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Surf's Up (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid.

Anchor has been updated and is solid.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was an awesome finale pitch, fitting for such a high-quality route.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : Direct East Buttress (5.11a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Nice route despite the so-so rock quality down low. The moderate climbing at the start and finish enable a lot of the climbing to go quickly.

In line with the Supertopo ratings, I found pitch 4 to be the crux rather than pitch 6. Pitch 6 is steeper and more powerful but difficulties are over quickly The reachy moves around the arete on pitch 4 felt harder to me. All bolts protecting cruxes on both harder pitches are new and bomber. The few old bolts that remain are on easier ground and gene... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Rhythm and Bolts (5.11a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Bring a brush, this slab feels hard at the grade when covered in pine needles, dust, and moss. Several different cruxes, including one at the bottom that could lead to a ledge fall if the belayer isn't alert. The climbing gets better towards the top, including a powerful/balancey finish.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Cry Baby (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Short, but more powerful than standard Index fare. The difficulty increases at each bolt, crescendoing to a pumpy little boulder problem. Fun shortie!!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Accidental Discharge (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Classic pitch with great slab and arete balance moves. If this were closer to the lower town wall it would get climbed all the time. The first crux between the 2nd and 4th bolts is friction dependent and felt like 5.11, while the upper crux felt closer to 10+. Excellent line. No gear needed for the bottom, the first bolt can be clipped off the ledge behind the tree before committing to the arete.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: This zone offers the finest concentration of 5.12 sport climbing in the canyon with the Upper Echelon being particularly stacked with classics.

Be aware! Rattlesnakes are prevalent on the approach trail slope and particularly enjoy the area below the Middle Tier wall.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Natural Log Cabin (5.11c R)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: This is a superb, four-star pitch with several cruxes separated by good rests. The hanging dihedral is both technical and powerful with surprisingly good feet, but it ain't over til you pull the final layback moves with a solid pump on board.

Bring small to medium nuts, double set of finger size, a single set above that to 3, and seven draws. While the "r" rating is only applicable to the start, the bottom holds can be dirty and gear is limited. As mentioned above, a 70M does not ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Superfly (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route with a unique and bouldery crux move. An old #3.5 Camalot protects the flared placement more securely than a #3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Broken Tooth (5.12-)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: One of the best in the Creek. An awesome rest in the cave after the pumpy start, a unique tooth-wrassling sequence to a good stance, then a pumpy and sustained off-fingers finish to the chains. Superb!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Right of Passage (5.9)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Super fun romp up the slabby face. Destined to become a local moderate classic!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Bring a few smaller to medium nuts and/or an orange metolius/grey alien to protect the finish. Very enjoyable route with a pumpy sequence out of the "cave."


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Edge Of Time (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: This route is awesome! Great position and fun climbing to a tricky reach at the lip.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Go Casey!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Very fun mini-route. Complex and powerful movement.

Missing anchor bolt replaced, thank you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Brilliant photo of a classy route. Nice, Andy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Seams Like A Dream (5.12b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Awesome direct finish to Between the Sheets, felt like solid .12 to me for the full link. Thin, technical, and occasionally devious moves lead to a perfect knob in the headwall and a final tricky move to finish. No fixed piece in the seam any longer above the belay.


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