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A brilliant climb.


Member Since: Dec 9, 2005
Last Visit: 16 mins ago
Contact Ol' Toby


Point Rank: # 2,149
Total Points: 241
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 1
31 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Ol' Toby been climbing?










Contributions


All (1451) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (39) | Comments (36) | Posts (24) | Stars (721) | Ratings (630)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Surf's Up (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid.

Anchor has been updated and is solid.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was an awesome finale pitch, fitting for such a high-quality route.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : Direct East Buttress (5.11a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: In line with the Supertopo ratings, I found pitch 4 to be the crux rather than pitch 6. While pitch 6 is steeper and more powerful, the difficulties are over quickly; the reachy moves around the arete on pitch 4 felt harder to me. All bolts protecting cruxes on both harder pitches are new and bomber. The few old bolts that remain are found on easier ground and are usually followed by new hardware.

Great route overall, despite the so-so rock quality down low. The moderate climbing... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Rhythm and Bolts (5.11a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Bring a brush, this dirty slab felt hard with holds covered in pine needles, dirt, and moss. Several different cruxes on this line, including one at the bottom that could lead to a ledge fall. The climbing gets better towards the top, including a powerful/balancey crux finish.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Cry Baby (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Short, but more powerful than standard Index fare. The difficulty increases at each bolt, culminating in a pumpy boulder problem move at the last bolt. Fun!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : ... : Accidental Discharge (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Classic pitch with great slab/arete/balance moves. If this were more easily accessible it would get climbed all the time, and might feel a bit easier as the feet cleaned up. The first crux between the 2nd and 4th bolts is friction dependent and felt like 5.11, while the upper crux felt closer to 10+. Excellent line!!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: This zone offers the finest concentration of 5.12 sport climbing in the canyon with the Upper Echelon being particularly stacked with classics.

Be aware! Rattlesnakes are prevalent on the approach trail slope and particularly enjoy the area below the Middle Tier wall.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Natural Log Cabin (5.11c R)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: This is a superb, four-star pitch with several cruxes separated by good rests. The hanging dihedral is both technical and powerful with surprisingly good feet, but it ain't over til you pull the final layback moves with a solid pump on board.

Bring small to medium nuts, double set of finger size, a single set above that to 3, and seven draws. While the "r" rating is only applicable to the start, the bottom holds are dirty and the gear is limited. As mentioned above, a 70M does not m... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Superfly (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route with a unique and bouldery crux move. An old #3.5 Camalot protects the flared placement more securely than a #3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Broken Tooth (5.12-)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: One of the best in the Creek. An awesome rest in the cave after the pumpy start, a unique tooth-wrassling sequence to a good stance, then a pumpy and sustained off-fingers finish to the chains. Superb!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Right of Passage (5.9)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Super fun romp up the slabby face. Destined to become a local moderate classic!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Bring a few smaller to medium nuts and/or an orange metolius/grey alien to protect the finish. Very enjoyable route with a pumpy sequence out of the "cave."


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Edge Of Time (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: This route is awesome! Great position and fun climbing to a tricky reach at the lip.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Go Casey!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Very fun mini-route. Complex and powerful movement.

Missing anchor bolt replaced, thank you.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: Brilliant photo of a classy route. Nice, Andy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Seams Like A Dream (5.12b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: Awesome direct finish to Between the Sheets, felt like solid .12 to me for the full link. Thin, technical, and occasionally devious moves lead to a perfect knob in the headwall and a final tricky move to finish. No fixed piece in the seam any longer above the belay.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche... : Dream of Poudre (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 17, 2011

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Comments: Perhaps the best route on a stacked wall. One of the best in the canyon.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: Without a doubt, one of the best pitches I've done.

While there are some good rests and no single stopper move, the pump stays on you.

4 stars for movement, aesthetics, and setting.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Pastafarian (5.12)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts. Lots of thin stuff, green alien for the right crack or purple tcu/blue alien for the left crack. A tricky sequence between the bolts leads to a big crank at the finish. Stout!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: Climber: Big Koptizki.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Wright's Lake : Spectrum Tower : Infrared (5.12a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Despite the funky bottom, this is a technical and rewarding granite face climb to a cool crack finish. Crux move felt sandbagged at 12a.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Learning to Crawl (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I thought this impressive line was both technical and a bit spicy. The bottom crux felt harder than 10+ to me and the upper crux somehow managed to be thin, reachy and powerful all at once.

A thin (3 or 4 BD) nut or C3 would have been welcome to protect moves before the crux bolt.

The drilled angle anchor on top of the tower needs an upgrade. There is better rock below the summit kitty litter that would accept steel. Contrary to the comment above there are no bolts on top and one of the d... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Goodbye Cruel World (5.12-)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: Superb shortie route. I found 4-5 orange metolius protected the crack above the rest, while yellow were slightly tipped.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 10, 2009

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Comments: Excellent technical movement on incredible rock. Superb! The mantel at the roof before the headwall is a tad easier for shorter folks.


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