Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Edge Of Time (5.11c)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is awesome! Great position and fun climbing to a tricky reach at the lip.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rock Hudson : Hot Rocks (5.11b) : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go Casey!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : The Web (5.13)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Missing anchor bolt replaced. Thank you.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant photo of a classy route. Nice, Andy.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Seams Like A Dream (5.12b)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMAZING finish to Between the Sheets, felt like solid .12 to me for the full link. Thin, technical, and devious moves lead to a perfect knob in the headwall and a final tricky move to finish. No fixed piece in the seam any longer above the belay.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche... : Dream of Poudre (5.12d)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps the best route on a stacked wall. Certainly one of the best in the canyon.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Without a doubt, one of the best pitches I've ever done.
While there are some good rests and no single stopper move the pump stays on you.
4 stars for movement, aesthetics, and setting.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Pastafarian (5.12)
By: Ol' Toby When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts on this route. Take lots of thin stuff, green alien for the right crack or purple metolius/blue alien for the left crack. Tricky sequence moving between the bolts leading to a big crank at the finish. Stout!!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: May 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climber: Big Koptizki.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Wright's Lake : Spectrum Tower : Infrared (5.12a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Apr 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite the funky bottom, this is a technical and rewarding granite face climb to a cool crack finish. Crux move felt sandbagged at 12a.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Learning to Crawl (5.11)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this impressive line was both technical and a tad spicy. While I'm short, the bottom crux felt harder than 10+ to me and the upper crux somehow managed to be thin, reachy and powerful all at once. I used the same beta in Josh's photo, but had to throw twice with the left hand to reach that hold.
A thin (3 or 4 BD) nut or C3 would have been welcome to protect moves before the bolted crux.
The drilled angle anchor on top of the tower needs an upgrade. There is better rock below th... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Goodbye Cruel World (5.12-)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Superb shortie route. I found 4-5 orange metolius protect the crack perfectly above the rest, while yellow were slightly tipped. The crisp untraveled edge of the crack truly makes this a pleasure to climb.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Chocolate Thunder (5.12a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent technical movement on incredible rock. Superb! The mantel at the roof before the headwall is a tad easier for shorter folks.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: Ol' Toby When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Inflictor (5.12-)
By: Ol' Toby When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be an .11+ finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips, then beautiful .11 fingers to the top. The only detraction is that one could stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key points, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing.
I support adding independent anchors to this line. Definitely good enough and toproping from either of t... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Pole Position (5.10a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doable, but more committing. Bring the handful of small cams.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Corn Flakes (5.9)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch offers two distinct, technical .11- cruxes, separated by an airy rest. Thin gear in the dihedral, off-finger to protect the undercling. Paste the feet and go. Superb.
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: Ol' Toby When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Technical, delicate, superb! A true classic at the grade. I prefer to link the corner into one long pitch with runners at the bottom.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : The Dike Route (5.9 R)
By: Ol' Toby When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the most obvious, delicate, and beautiful lines I've had the pleasure to climb. A delicate dance up beautiful granite.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a) : Photo
By: Ol' Toby When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey! I took that photo!! Those are my duct-taped pants in the corner!! Way to style the lead, Dirka.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Clowntime is Over (5.9)
By: Ol' Toby When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd give this one .9++ if you're short like me (5'6") and can't reach the jugs. Tried this one move for about 30 minutes, climbing up and down and up and down... Finally busted some hard moves with both feet cut to reach the jugs and mantle over. Stimulating!
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Dome : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: Ol' Toby When: Aug 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite cragging routes. Aesthetic, sustained and a little burly.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Ol' Toby When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be less classic than advertised. The loose flakes and meandering nature of the lower pitches detracted from the overall character of the route, although the crux pitch is unique. Pretty hard to put an accurate rating on the crux roof, definitely would give it 9++ if you're shorter. I couldn't stem and ended up with back against one wall and feet against the other, shuffling sideways until I could reach out and grab the lip to pull over. Last pitch wasn't hard to find: A... more >>
|
RSS Feed
