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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reversing that Tyrolean to come back to the car SUCKED with the force of a thousand black holes!!!!! I may go downstream next time and walk back up. If there even is a next time.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Groan Up (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of those climbs where you think you are home free after a few spots of darned hard climbing (especially onsight), then BAM! You can't clip the anchors without some improbable and desperate move. There is nothing more cruel than having the a final crux right before you clip the anchor. Haha.... Oh well, whaddya gonna do?
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Industrial Disease (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Impressive climb, especially for this area. I really enjoyed all the moves. The crux for me was the moves between the second and third bolt. The overhang is strenuous, but straight-forward. This one is definitely now in the top 5 climbs in this area for me.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : W.W.J.B. aka Unknown betwee... (5.11)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this by staying in the middle of the arete until the feet disappeared, then I moved left into the crack just as PPBB is veering off to the left. Jammed a few moves there then did a difficult move or two diagonally, then straight up from there to the anchors. If that was the intent of the line, then it's an okay route and actually has some very nice finger and thin hands moves combined with some devious face moves at crux. The way I did it, doesn't overlap PPBB.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Crawling Up Roseanne's Bell... (5.11b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained is the key word. There aren't really any super hard moves taken individually, but linking all the relentlessly thin and or rounded holds gets a major burn going.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut (5.11c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight up the bolts, through the crimpy face feels like full value 5.11c. There are no true recovery-style rests on the thing, just less pumpage after you get under the roof on the bigger holds. The roof is comparatively easy if you ask me - you are just drained by the time you get there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Italian Arete (5.9 R)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of June 21, 2008, the bird crap is no big deal and is totally avoidable.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Neo-Quasi Bugaloo (5.10a)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a."
If you go straight up/right of the bolt line, it's definitely solid 11, I'd say. Ultra thin, committing slab work involved, and it's more than just one move.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (5.9+)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this twice now, and I'm going to have to depart from the conventional wisdom. I believe a "+" was originally meant to mean sustained. There is no sustained climbing on this route and the crux is much harder than a 5.9 move. It's a strenuous, highly technical stem move above the bolt immediately above the roof (at least the way I did it - twice) that felt more like 10b I'd say.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Tierra Del Fuego (5.11b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing this a couple of times, I feel this is a fine, technically sustained route. I did do the 12a/b finish and found it very thin and thoughtful. I found the body positions I needed to use seemed really improbable, but then I found myself somehow sticking up there when I fully committed. It's not a pure strength crux, because it comes down to focus, determination, and technique, not just raw power. You have to stay very "quiet" on the holds to get them to work for you.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Natural Selection (5.11a/b)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll weigh in on the loving it side. A good long pitch of high quality climbing. It's interesting how it changes from slab to steep juggy climbing all in one pitch. The crux is definitely delicate - a truly committing steep slab move. I agree on the run out to the crux - kinda spooky. It's really the only thing on the route I don't like.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: May 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good climb and I agree that it seems to be rated more appropriately than some others. It felt right on as an on-sight. I spent a lot of energy trying different ways to get established on the roof. Now that I know what to do, it may seem much easier, but I doubt it. The crux seemed above the roof - getting established in that crack - those felt quite hard to me. Oh, and unless you really want to do 40 more feet of 5.8, then just bail from the intermediate anchor.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Porn Queen (5.11d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: May 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, this pitch isn't too bad at all. In fact, it was fun. Very juggy and exposed climbing. It's the way I intend to do Reefer Madness from now on. I'm not going to quibble about ratings, but if you can climb Reefer Madness smoothly, then there is nothing on Porn Queen that should stop you from giving it a go. The bird crap isn't on the actual holds, at least when I did it and you get past that part after two or three moves.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Great Expectations (5.10d)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only way to make it 10c is to stay out of the corner. In one place, about where shown in the picture I think you will have to use the corner to avoid making it harder than rated. But if you use it too much, the route will seem soft. Go straight up to the anchors from the last bolt and you will be crimping and not downrating the climb.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Relampago (5.10c)
By: Not So Famous Old Dude When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you go straight up the face on crimps, it will feel like 10c.
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