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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : IF (5.9 C3-)
By: nooky brown When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, that tipped out 6" wide crack looks easy, get down there and tell us how it is.
Looks like a bunch of that stuff needs freeing, I look forward to hearing about it from you.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Forest of Fangorn (5.6 A3)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ahhhhh........ok, makes sense.
I will keep it hush hush and wait for the descriptions.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Mines of Moria (5.5 C2)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got to keep you guys on your toes!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Mines of Moria (5.5 C2)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice one, keep the routes coming.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ooooooooooooh, the "no wonder you hated it, you're not strong enough to climb there". Silly you, I broke holds and took the ride with them, doesn't have much to do with the climbing.
Sorry if you veiwed the post as elitist drivel. It was not meant to come across as that.
What I was getting at is that Devils Castle is no place to mess up and to have fallen off a bunch of times up there is obviously not a good thing. You are very lucky and I'm happy that you fell close(I'm guessing)to the bolts ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You have taken whippers up there?!, its a good job Brian gives soft grades or you really might get in to some serious trouble.
Like James said, you have been a very lucky(or unlucky)boy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Devils Castle is adventure climbing and you could get the chop up there.
You should expect "Loose sandy jugs, detached blocks, ledge fall potential" etc. To moan about the stars, grades and rock on any of those routes is stupid.
For what its worth I would give the route 3.2 stars because just like the beer I like to have or do one once in awhile.
Keep up the good work Brian.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: nooky brown When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has that rte been rebolted? because those anchors were all chopped a few years back. If they are back I concur its a very quick and easy rap.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Weed Killer (5.11a)
By: nooky brown When: Nov 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: try it in august in full sun but yeah its around mid 10ish.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: nooky brown When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, I did not know your middle name was Brian.
Nudge nudge wink wink say no more.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: nooky brown When: Apr 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian, that's quite the assumption, but you're wrong.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: nooky brown When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Brian,
please remember that this route and many others have been put up onsight by someone who's old enough to be my dad, with a rack and a power drill on his back. I think its really sad that so called climbers today have to go online and moan about route safety. Also carrying a bolt kit obviously is nice if you have to back up a belay or replace an old bolt.
If your not in to this type of climbing, have a wife and kid, mortgage, puppys etc etc then stick to the bolt happy areas of Rifle an... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Pillar (5.11a/b PG13)
By: nooky brown When: Jul 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good rte, p2 makes it well worth the easy hike.
I would link p5 and half of p6 to base of final 10c(ish) headwall. Nice to have your belayer near by for those moves.
gear used - 1 hand size piece + 2rock to back up bolt(belay)for last pitch.
Did anyone mention bring a helmet?.
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Location: UT : Saint George
By: nooky brown When: Apr 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a quick comeback on Clays spray.I fully agree on the quality of stone and routes at the VRG.It must be noted though,if you do not climb 5.12 and your into the whole wilderness experience don't waste your time.
There are some crags within an hour of the VRG that have nice stone/routes/views but in the end its still just sport climbing. (not that there is anything wrong with that)
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Day of Atonement (5.8+ R)
By: nooky brown When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if Mr Ross cares about gear being added to his rtes, though I would like to add that he is putting those rtes up on the lead at age 65 yrs young.
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