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Rock Climbing Photo: this is me in Moloka'i.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact nolteboy

Point Rank: # 3,405
Total Points: 197
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 3
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nolteboy been climbing?










Contributions


All 311 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 102 | Posts 1 | Stars 189 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006

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Comments: Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.

As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.

Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: A great chimney, and a good route to do in warmer weather. When it's hot out there, it's nice and cool in here.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006

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Comments: New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: Pitch one is straight-in splitter goodness for fingees. Pitch two is slamma jamma time for hands. mmmmm mmmmm good!!!


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: A very fine route. Don't hang out at the roof- just place gear and go for it. Trust me - pulling the roof isn't nearly as bad as hanging out underneath wasting energy! I was trying to be mr. trad and didn't clip the bolt at the roof, but my second got super frustrated on acount of the rope getting sucked into the roof crack, thereby foiling his efforts to pull thru... so it might not be a bad idea for the leader to clip that bolt with a short draw just to help out the second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: Pre-dawn enthusiasm and a failure to ask ourselves, "are we really where we think we are?" combined a few years ago to bless my buddy Jeff and I with a trip up this "route". The description given above is an accurate one- stick with the North Chimney.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Planet Waves (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: Not a uniform splitter, but continuously changing in size and shape.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 3, 2006

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Comments: This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 2, 2006

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Comments: This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Across Enemy Lines (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: I only climbed the first 2 pitches. Pitch 2 (especially the upper half of it) is fantastic, well protected face climbing on absolutely bullet rock. The 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom of the first pitch seem a little contrived - even though less aesthetic and much easier, the flakes on the left look like the natural start to me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Awesome, especially p2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: A 3.5 Camalot is indeed nice to have for the crux on the 2nd pitch. A wonderful route that protects well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Lifestream (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s I've done on the Front Range. Since the route traverses left for a significant distance over its entire length, it ends up being quite a bit longer than if it just went straight up.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Straight and Narrow (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Regarding the "red Alien/yellow Alien on p.4" discussion... I placed a gray Camalot (same size as yellow?), and it held when I fell off trying to hump my way up into the bombay. The Camalots are, of course, a bit wider axially than Aliens, and this may have helped (a bit more surface area on cam lobes). Then again, maybe it was just dumb luck. Obviously, best to put a 24'" runner on whatever one places here....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climbs of Passion Exit (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 12, 2005

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Comments: On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Granite cracks don't get much better than this.


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