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Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: nolteboy When: Sep 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beavs, you better get up there and do it to it, boy, before some other eager beaver beats you to the punch!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face/Hong (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My comments are for p.1 only- haven't tried the 2nd pitch (McCarthy West Face route)...
A little different from most Tower pitches that I've climbed, this one features a stress-type fracture that runs up and down one particular column (as opposed to the typical crack here that actually separates the columns). Interesting and sustained climbing, but with a couple of good rests. A #1 and a couple of #0.75 camalots for the thin hand crack below the roof, with doubles of smaller cams ... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Sep 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.
As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.
Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of ... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great chimney, and a good route to do in warmer weather. When it's hot out there, it's nice and cool in here.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard to beat, esp. when combined with New Wave. Bang out the final pitch with a rope-stretcher on your 60m and you're on the top.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: New Wave is fer shur THE way to get to the goodness of Assemblyline. Although not a top-quality Tower route, it beats the daylights out of the humdrum stuff out to the left. Good luck getting on it, though - there's usually a mob scene at the base.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : One Way Sunset (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch one is straight-in splitter goodness for fingees. Pitch two is slamma jamma time for hands. mmmmm mmmmm good!!!
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fine route. Don't hang out at the roof- just place gear and go for it. Trust me - pulling the roof isn't nearly as bad as hanging out underneath wasting energy! I was trying to be mr. trad and didn't clip the bolt at the roof, but my second got super frustrated on acount of the rope getting sucked into the roof crack, thereby foiling his efforts to pull thru... so it might not be a bad idea for the leader to clip that bolt with a short draw just to help out the second.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pre-dawn enthusiasm and a failure to ask ourselves, "are we really where we think we are?" combined a few years ago to bless my buddy Jeff and I with a trip up this "route". The description given above is an accurate one- stick with the North Chimney.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Dylan Wall : Planet Waves (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a uniform splitter, but continuously changing in size and shape.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Across Enemy Lines (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only climbed the first 2 pitches. Pitch 2 (especially the upper half of it) is fantastic, well protected face climbing on absolutely bullet rock. The 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom of the first pitch seem a little contrived - even though less aesthetic and much easier, the flakes on the left look like the natural start to me.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped.
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