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Rock Climbing Photo: this is me in Moloka'i.


Member Since: Jan 1, 2005
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact nolteboy

Point Rank: # 3,345
Total Points: 188
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nolteboy been climbing?










Contributions


All 237 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 98 | Posts 1 | Stars 122 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : McCarthy West Face (Variant... (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Aug 24, 2006

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Comments: A very fine route. Don't hang out at the roof- just place gear and go for it. Trust me - pulling the roof isn't nearly as bad as hanging out underneath wasting energy! I was trying to be mr. trad and didn't clip the bolt at the roof, but my second got super frustrated on acount of the rope getting sucked into the roof crack, thereby foiling his efforts to pull thru... so it might not be a bad idea for the leader to clip that bolt with a short draw just to help out the second.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: nolteboy When: Jul 21, 2006

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Comments: Pre-dawn enthusiasm and a failure to ask ourselves, "are we really where we think we are?" combined a few years ago to bless my buddy Jeff and I with a trip up this "route". The description given above is an accurate one- stick with the North Chimney.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Planet Waves (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: Not a uniform splitter, but continuously changing in size and shape.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Mexican Mountain Road Area : Dylan Wall : Idiot Wind (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 23, 2006

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Comments: A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Gollum's Arch Rock : Facial Hair (5.11a R)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 3, 2006

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Comments: This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sugar Crack (5.7)
By: nolteboy When: Feb 2, 2006

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Comments: This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Belle Fourche Buttress (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: If you're headed to the Tower, put this one on your list of "must do" routes! So beautiful to look at on the walk up to the base, you just can't believe it's .10b!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Across Enemy Lines (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: I only climbed the first 2 pitches. Pitch 2 (especially the upper half of it) is fantastic, well protected face climbing on absolutely bullet rock. The 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom of the first pitch seem a little contrived - even though less aesthetic and much easier, the flakes on the left look like the natural start to me.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : A Long December (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Dec 27, 2005

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Comments: Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Pressure Drop (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Awesome, especially p2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Beagle's Ear (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: A 3.5 Camalot is indeed nice to have for the crux on the 2nd pitch. A wonderful route that protects well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Lifestream (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Second pitch has fantastic rock and super cool moves. Very well bolted- [tough] parts are well protected, easier sections are a bit more run out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s I've done on the Front Range. Since the route traverses left for a significant distance over its entire length, it ends up being quite a bit longer than if it just went straight up.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Straight and Narrow (5.8+)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 24, 2005

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Comments: Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 18, 2005

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Comments: Regarding the "red Alien/yellow Alien on p.4" discussion... I placed a gray Camalot (same size as yellow?), and it held when I fell off trying to hump my way up into the bombay. The Camalots are, of course, a bit wider axially than Aliens, and this may have helped (a bit more surface area on cam lobes). Then again, maybe it was just dumb luck. Obviously, best to put a 24'" runner on whatever one places here....


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climbs of Passion Exit (5.11c)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 12, 2005

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Comments: On the subject of "cutting"... I recommend a wrap or two of tape for the digits on this one. If you blow a foot on the steep left wall and your corn-fed self rips said digits out of (and downward thru) the crack's serrated edges.... Some of the worst crack-gobi's I've had.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Whimsical Dreams (5.11b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Granite cracks don't get much better than this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Cool reaches past blank spots in crack - great movement.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10c/d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: The last 15 feet of this route warrant its getting 3 stars (amazing finger locks with great pro on perfect granite) - below that, the climbing is merely "very good"...

We did the 2 pitches described above as 1 pitch with no problems. A 60m line gets you to the big tree you started from.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend!


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Vanishing Point (5.10d)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 9, 2005

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Comments: Don't waste time at the crux! I had more difficulty with this than with GREAT WHITE CRIME.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Piece of Dirt (5.11a)
By: nolteboy When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: The layback flake is pretty positive. Don't dawdle at the top of the flake!


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