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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Noah8000 When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: P3 has to be one of the best 5.8s out there. Superb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route. P1 accepts gear well. The piton on the P2/3 roof is bomber. I don't see it coming out for a while. Besides great gear is right by it. You really don't need anything bigger than a #1. Lots of nutting.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Citadel : The Forrest/Briggs Indirec... (5.3 A2+)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work guys! Looks wild
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this with Brian Crim and David Alexander. A couple things, we found that every pitch had a serious section. Definitely a serious route. The P5 end is not C1 as described in other guides. C2++ or just C2. The 5.10 R/X pitch was pretty awesome actually. Fun but scary climbing. It's a little soft for 5.10 but I'd hate to sandbag someone on a serious lead like it. The jump right to a jug as described above is really really wild! As the fall would be very bad. The last pitch is not a gimme. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Dunce Rock
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got the bolt ladder free at 5.10+? or something today. Hard to rate. Really quality climbing! Don't know if that's the FFA of the tower? Either way, I think it's a fun route to check out especially those looking to get on something free rather then just Lizard Rock and the Cobra. Though I don't think you would want to take whips on those pins but they would probably hold. It's a sport climb now!! :)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Dunce Rock : Unknown (5.7 C1)
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: After a couple PBR's I went and got on this today with a couple buddies. I ended up freeing it all at 5.10+? Something like that....Had to clean a bit of mud. And the pitons made it interesting as far as not wanting to fall on them. Perhaps the FFA of the tower? I don't know. Either way, the free climbing is quite good on the pitch.
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : The Pillar of Pain (WI5)
By: Noah8000 When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This gully got avalanched here about 2 weeks ago. We got done climbing it and a rock the size of a microwave flew off the top. Ten seconds later a big wet slide took out the approach step of ice. (as the gullies form sort of a Y once above the approach step of ice, this slide came from the left gully, about 100 feet left of Pillar of Pain) Anyways, just a warning. If we would've been an hour later or earlier, it could of ended badly. Watch out for warm days. There is avy hazard in Cody. Besides ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : The Ole 6 (5.11 WI3 M6+)
By: Noah8000 When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to be missed! If this was in the park, it would be an instant classic!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : Tom Thumbs Tallywag (C1+ X)
By: Noah8000 When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Paul, for those psychotic ones that like this sort of stuff, better do it soon. Went and got the second ascent here a couple days ago. Summit has eroded more. It's about 18" by 18" now. I had to persuade my partner to belay me. I think I'm the psychotic one here. A friggin' thrill! Scary.... My partner said he saw it sway. This thing REALLY won't be here too much longer with the amount of erosion that's already occured in the last couple years and not a pretty scene if it topples over with y... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : "Dolly Madison" (M6) : Photo
By: Noah8000 When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh,
Comment was meant more in the sarcastic way. My point was, don't be pointing fingers at others for "scratching" the rock when on the other side of the spectrum, you're not helping the rock either. To each his own.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Little Higher (M8-)
By: Noah8000 When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome line. Well worth the effort! Feels more like the alpine than the standard Vail route. I kept saying to myself at the crux "A little higher, and higher, and higher, there we go!" Nice turf sticks too. The spacing between the 3rd and 4th bolt has some hurtful consequences if you blow it near the clip. Just about groundfall. That being said, it's not that hard between them. Besides that, the spacing is very manageable. This climb stretched my brain and arms out a little bit. I guess they ca... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Psychotic Love (5.10 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Sep 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually did see one ancient knifeblade not too far off from your route now that I recall. Probably from Layton Kor. Really old! Probably could've pulled it out with one finger. It was pretty close to the 3rd/4rth bolts of Fools Gold if I remember correctly.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Psychotic Love (5.10 R)
By: Noah8000 When: Jul 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Darren. It's a fun adventure. I'll shoot you an email next time.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 (M5)
By: Noah8000 When: May 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. The final snow mushroom that has seemed to stop a couple of parties this year can be surmounted by going right with alright gear. I thought this was harder then what is called the crux. It's all cruiser from there!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMAZING...Go do it! I also will say the Dubious Graffiti is the way to go. You can combine the pitches into one awesome pitch with quite a bit of 5.11. Had a bit of rope to spare with a 60m. Don't need to much of a rack. RPs and TCUs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Suparete (5.11a)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun time, only bringing draws. Get excited for the runout at the top!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this a couple days ago. Stellar route and a good intro me thinks. Some thoughts. You really don't need much gear. You only place a couple pieces on route. I didn't use one stopper. Single set would do but bring lots of biners/draws/rivet hangers for the bolt ladder as this is what the route mainly is.
The crux aid pitch was exciting. I was to stubborn to stick clip the first pin off the belay. Some very exciting free climbing was needed to reach it....where a fall would be no bueno...bad le... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did it a couple weeks ago.....I wish I would have taken some sawed off angles to hand place. We did it all clean at about 5.10 C3....P1 was french freed....P3 was the crux for us....Tri cams on the traverse pitch are bomber, trust me.
While I believe this route really needs to be climbed with nothing else except stoppers and cams, it's dumb to say "you shouldn't be up there if you need pins"
This is the Fishers and the rock changes from ascent to ascent. Even cleaning the cams enlarges t... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : The Grizzly Grotto : The Mauling (M8)
By: Noah8000 When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route that climbs very well. Get on it!
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