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Location: CA : High Sierra : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: noah gostout When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rout, but a bit run out in places perhaps.
Approached in Chaco flip-flops and regretted it on the descent to the start of the climb, there is a fair amount of scree field to cross and it is no fun with rocks in your shoes.
The business pitch is stellar fun exposed climbing on a column, it is quite runout, 30+feet in one section. (it is also posible I was off route as rout finding can be tricky on this one). The toughest move is in the chimney-ish slot at the top.
(Spoiler Alert/Beta... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Poseidon Adventure (5.10 R)
By: noah gostout When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long time ago I climbed the crux pitch like an OW, it made it very difficult! I also only had a single #5 and #4, so I had to keep walking the pieces. If you climb it this way, be prepared for some shenanigans, grunting, and sweat. With proper gear, one could easily climb it like a chimney and it would go at the grade, I hope. The OW version however is pretty darn tough, and I don't recommend it, the tendency to approach it like this is what earns it the title as an infamous sa... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: noah gostout When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contrary to common belief, the rock here is choss, and the area is full of snakes!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: noah gostout When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night (8/8/11). I went back to get it, but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: noah gostout When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night, I went back to get it but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: noah gostout When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, the pitches before the two builder ledge are all pretty easy, the 5.11 face is still protected with a copperhead and really more like 5.10 the only really hard stopper moves are on the upper crux where things get totally ridiculous! It is possible to French free the first moves if you have small, offset stoppers or perhaps a 000 c3.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: noah gostout When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing climb filled with great chimneys and exhilarating slab! We racked with a double rack 0.4-3 and singles of c3,0.3 ,4 and a #3 Bigbro (green). We used everything we brought but really didn't need the Bigbro. We brought it for the 12th pitch, but it was really easy and an unlikely fall. The 9th pitch was a little spicy but really only one move to good holds I didn't find the nut placement and just ran it without gear. I linked this pitch with Crystal Vision pitch and made the scar... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Shock Treatment (5.12+)
By: noah gostout When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it with Drew, and just wanted to add that a triple rack is not necessary except for what Drew mentions, and you will most certainly need large gear for the traverse pitch and 6th pitch. The end of the traverse pitch has a moderate but exposed off width/lieback that is unprotectable unless you have the big stuff I think it would fit a #6 Camalot very nicely (I found a 0.3 Camalot placement that was mostly for my sanity at the time, it would likely have blown). I’m a fairly sizable... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11)
By: noah gostout When: Mar 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 3/24/11 the first set of anchors is still missing hangers. One can rappel from the anchors below the summit with two 60m to the ground. The summit anchor is in dire need of new webbing, the tat up there is very sun bleached and brittle.
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