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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : What If You're Not? (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Jul 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really fun route, delicate for 5.7 right off the bat and then a steep jug-haul to the top. Heading up the east face and then hitting this on your way back is a good time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: nick moeckel When: Jul 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this one- the second pitch is the selling point, but if you avoid the gullies and head up the face on the third pitch it's quite nice as well.
Edited to add: I climbed this in late fall; this route is closed much of the year, as noted on the main page for Der Zerkle but not here. Don't ignore the closures.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Jul 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If 5.7 is around your leading limit and you're looking for climbs in this area, I personally found this to be a little harder than the Standard Route on the Elephant Buttress and a little easier than Cozyhang. And the ten minutes or so that I spent gathering the nerve to grovel over to the chickenheads rank as perhaps the most humbling that I can remember off the top of my head.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Shortcut (East Face) (5.4)
By: nick moeckel When: Apr 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're not in the mood to enjoy the hike in, the crack probably isn't going to be reward enough to make you a happy climber. It's quite a long way in for what's essentially one pitch of debatable quality. That said, the view from the summit is fantastic, and it's spacious- just take the time to appreciate the trip in.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head : East Face/Queen Anne's Head (5.4)
By: nick moeckel When: Oct 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the descent: 1911 Gully obviously sucks. At night, as I found out, it turns into a hell-thicket of Blair Witchian creepiness. If that were the best way down, I would never climb this again. However Will Clopton showed me a much nicer descent. It involves three shorter rappels and is, in my mind, well worth it.
Rappel only as far as the slab James mentions instead of all the way into the gully. Head up the slab (westish) until you find another rappel anchor, long slings around a b... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Aug 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Heading up pitch three things started to get a little slimy and not-as-awesome looking as the first two pitches had been. Looking right I remembered Leo's comment about a variation- nice solid rock with fun moves out there, and a little sunshine to boot. We cut back left after a little while to a nice belay spot 50 feet or so down from the big ledge. Lots of fun.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Jul 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can think of at least seven phrases to describe this climb, and "greasy #@$%" never crossed my mind. There isn't exactly an overwhelming number of not-so-commiting routes at this grade lying around for people busting into 7's, and in that context this is a wonderful route. Rests after pretty much every move, no shortage of gear, I liked this climb a lot.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Upper Infirmary Slabs : Emergency Entrance (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Jul 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: On 7/10/05 I replaced the worst of the slingage and added a rap ring.
This was probably my least favorite climb at the crag. The interesting part is pretty short.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango (5.5)
By: nick moeckel When: Jun 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like everyone has a different way of doing this climb. I took the variation that heads up the face to the huge tree, and from there went 20 feet right and then straight up over a fun bulge to rejoin the standard line. The romp up to the tree and the next two pitches up to the ridge were wonderful. I thought the whole route protected quite well by Flatirons standards- there was maybe one place where I thought more pro would be nice.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Duh Dihedral (5.6)
By: nick moeckel When: Jun 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sweet climb. More sustained than I was expecting, I agree that it might not be the best first lead in the world. There were a lot of seemingly suspect yet well chalked holds- I guess they've been there for a while, but a little freaky none the less. If you manage to get there without lots of people hanging out waiting for the route, don't pass up the opportunity to toprope Pool of Blood and (the unfortunately named) Tampon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: nick moeckel When: May 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spent quite a while being a little freaked out about this climb and its reputation, finally hopped on it the other day. Fun and easy climbing up to a decent stance below the roof, from which you can lean and place a stopper before starting the traverse. A couple of fairly nice alien placements after the traverse pretty much eliminate the risk of dihedral-smackage if a fall were to occur. I was pleasently surprised at the quality of the pro, and *really* liked the underclingy moves on the tr... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tigger (5.5)
By: nick moeckel When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first time I climbed this I belayed from the ledge below the undercling moves, and suffered some really stupid rope drag on the second pitch. The next time I did the undercling as part of the first pitch and moved right 2 meters or so to an ok stance. This alleviated all drag issues. I'm pretty sure that's where Rossiter recommends belaying. In any case, it went much better for me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Thin Crack (5.4)
By: nick moeckel When: Mar 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that the crack below and left of the rooflet, with a scrawny tree at the top, was a more interesting way to start than scrambling up below trident.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Trident (5.7)
By: nick moeckel When: Mar 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun moves up to and through the roof, especially if you take the slabby start. Above the roof the climbing wasn't anything special.
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