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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Crux did feel harder than 5.10a, but it's short, and I've never gone left instead which I've heard is easier. Opposed RP's on the first horizontal may keep you off the ground.....
Unfortunately the person I was climbing with left two of my quickdraws at the anchor yesterday if anyone finds em!!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Impeccable rock quality. Very well protected - you can sew this route up if you want. A gold camalot clipped short protects the first move. Regarding the grade controvery on this route, if you pull the "tricky move" the right way, it feels easy - like 5.7. If you do it the hard way, it feels like 5.9 in my opinion.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Turdland (5.9 PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always gone straight up at the last bolt. It is a really fun, exposed move, that doesn't seem contrived to me since it is more direct. Its well protected assuming that old bolt is good, and I don't think it is 10d. More like 10a or b in my opinion.....
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : My Generation (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch is nice. Carefull clipping the first few bolts on the third pitch, as there is ledge fall potential.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Tombstone (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Re-climbed this the other day, pretty much climbed directly up from the crux to the top, and in contradiction to my earlier statement, I found the climbing better and definitely reasonably protected.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Spelunking Midget (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent little climb. Well worth doing. Deserves more stars. Very well protected.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Little Kisses (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very moderate 5.9, expecially for the ADK's, and especially when compared to Mystery Achievement across the road. But who cares - its still very worth doing.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great gear the whole way. You can sew up the crux. I never felt unsafe and I don't like runouts on sketchy gear. Sustained but always a rest in-between moves. Only issue is the zoo that is the uberfall staring up at you while you're climbing......once you isolate your mind from that, it is a pleasure to climb!!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite routes. Always surprised by how few stars it gets in the guide books. The flake moves are really not bad, and the crux is well protected and not hard if you find all of the rests. This is a great last climb of the day on your way out when you just have a little bit of light left.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think people like to sandbag routes and other people because it somehow makes them feel better about themselves. And I'm just as guilty as the rest of us. By calling a 5.11 pitch a 5.10, it implies that since you are comfortable on 5.11 that this pitch "feels" like a 5.10 to you, which should not be surprising since you are a solid 5.11 climber, and chose to lead a 5.11 in the Adirondacks. You just have to be careful and self aware about this when making absolute statements. Rock climbing is e... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Desperado (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as good as it looked. I think I did it the "way hard" way.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Geronimo (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bozeman Bullet (5.6)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb, and probably stout for the 5.6 leader. You can skip the first anchor and continue to the top anchor and then lower off in one pitch.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Broken Broom (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 40 feet of this route have extremely satisfying technical moves. You will wish the intial flake goes on forever. You can get very aesthetic photos of this climb by easily scrambling out the ledge at the top of Torcher, just right of the climb.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Amphitheatre Crack (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar route! Fairly sustained. The top section reminds me of the last pitch of Sons of Yesterday in Yosemite.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Carpenter & Das (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can this be done in 1 pitch with long slings?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Long Play Wall : Long Play (5.10a PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start was definitely the crux, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Second Job (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very pleasant moderate crack climbing.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Critical Crimps (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Parallel Passage (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is 10a. Sustained and harder than it looks, but well protected.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Black Arch Arête (5.10b PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super good is right.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Scallion (5.10a PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't say PG 13. Crux moves are all well protected.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Fastest Gun (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb. 3rd pitch heady with questionable gear as I recall, but maybe easier climbing relative to the rest of the route.
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