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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Nick Weinberg

Point Rank: # 4,808
Total Points: 93
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 18
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 145 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts 40 | Stars 6 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : The Big Wall : Johnny Tsunami (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Awkward and pumper climbing than Johnny Tsunami. Not as enjoyable in my opinion. A lot of the edges you think are going to be positive just seem to be facing the wrong way.....


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Carhartt Wall : The Cenotaph (5.10a/b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Cool, relatively short crux sequence that requires a little thought on the upper pillar, and beautiful incut edges on the lower section. Definitely worth climbing if you are climbing Three Degrees to the left....


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Two Evil Deeds (5.10d)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: This climb is awesome and pretty pumpy and very sustained, although no single move is super hard.

The crux move out of the crack is not actually that hard, but the problem is keeping it together at that point to figure out and pull the move.

Further supports my weariness of the 10d grade!!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Noah's Ark (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Really cool arÍte pitch!

First move can be burly if you go straight up. You can go right on better holds but risk a pendulum into the corner.

Upper arÍte is awesome.

This climb, along with Oracle and Two Evil Deeds are "must do's" at Ark Wall.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Ark Wall : Oracle (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: Awesome all bolted route!

Deserves more stars!!!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Great Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This route is F-ing incredible!!!!

It is an aesthetic, dramatic, exposed, clean, sweeping dihedral that is uncharacteristic of most climbs in the East.

This climb is so underappreciated and under-climbed.

The gear is decent in my opinion.

It is stout and sustained! "5.9" for the 5.10 climber. If you are solid at the 5.10 grade you need to get on this. Bring some rp's for the thin section leading into the chimney as I recall.

If you link the first two pitches from the ground you create a tre... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Politico Wall : Caribou Barbie (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: These three are fun and fairly moderate. You can bang em out quickly at the end of the day on the way out if are itchin for some more climbing...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Main Wall : Monty Python (5.10a/b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Fun worthwhile pitch with a short moderate crux.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Main Wall : Claim Jumper (5.11b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorite climbs at Shelving Rock. Two well protected cruxes. Great rock on the upper section.

Can protect the lower section with 0.75 Camalot and small nut with long slings. Upper crack can be protected with an optional tcu or small alien sized piece. No other gear required.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Main Wall : Hackett Corner (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch! Do it if it's dry. Better than it looks.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: I was planning on bolting a via ferrata system up this entire climb and charging summer tourists to take them to the top. Just wanted to check with the local climbing community before doing this. I'll make sure the hardware is the same color as the rock for ethical reasons.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : My Generation (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, there is gear getting to the first bolt, but as I recall there are some crux moves clipping or getting to the second or third bolt. Botching this would result in a fall on that ledge.

But great climb and overall safe and very much worth doing. Three great varied pitches!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Lick It Up (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Great well-protected little pitch!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Hesitation (5.8 R)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Finally climbed this a few weeks ago after years of passing it over. Stout, adventurous route. We did the whole climb in two pitches which worked well. This is a serious route. There is potential for a dangerous pelvis or femur-breaking pendulum if the second blows the unprotected moves before the top of the traditional second pitch belay. The moves are not super hard, but an inexperienced climber could get into trouble here.

The last pitch was one of the harder 5.6's I've ever done. Maybe I wa... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : Chronic Fixation (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Fun pumpy sport climb, and one of the few warm ups on the wall. If you can get up this you can get up pitch 1 of Kingdom Come. Also do Wall Ruler.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Raging Raven (5.11a/b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route today. The first major hold/block flexed and creaked when I pulled out on it. I thought it was going to break off but it didn't. If this thing breaks off, which it probably will, you could get hurt since it looks to be a decent size. After leading it, I climbed it a second time on TR to see if you can avoid this hold, and you can. You can also pull down on a hold on the top of it instead of pulling outward which should put less leverage on it. I was glad to have stick-clipped ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Static Cling (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Don't forget about this somewhat obscure route! Its exciting and different - you'll see...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Psalm 32 (5.12a/b A0)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 is a brilliant exercise in balance and footwork. Well protected and sustained, but never desperate, with at least two no-hands rests. There is debate as to the grade of this pitch. Its kind of like a thought puzzle that you have to unlock. If you do it wrong, it will feel hard as hell. But if you do it right, it will feel almost easy, and flow like water. I promise! Like many classic Poke-O climbs, these moves are intellectually stimulating and extremely rewarding to link. Your moves mus... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Green Onion (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Don't be turned away by the appearance of this pitch from the ground. In typical Poke-O fashion the climbing holds are clean despite a "dirty" appearance. In fact, do a few laps on it to clean it up some more. Very enjoyable climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: This is an amazing pitch on really nice rock. But, I consider it a pretty serious lead. There is good gear through the harder sections, but it may take some detailed placements from tricky stances to get bomber. Also the upper runout, though relatively easy and juggy, could have serious consequences if you are frazzled by the time you get to this point (i.e. big airtime if you fall). Make sure you have a solid head and experience placing small gear before you get on this. Not a climb to break in... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Mayflower (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: This climb is stout!!!

My partner was going to send Mark a letter voicing her opinion regarding the grading of this climb after we rapped; but I convinced her not to because Mark is such a nice guy!!!

Throw all of your friends who think they can climb 5.10 on this one!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Ten B (5.11a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Fun thought-provoking moves. Not so bad once you figure out the moves. But until then you might think you are being sandbagged!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Big Slide Mtn. : Freudian Slip (5.9-)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Went back to do this last year during peak black fly season thinking that there would be enough wind up there to clear them out, but we were horribly wrong. Wholly mother of god, the bugs were bad. My worst black fly experience to date. We were so miserable we bailed instead of climbing the fun second pitch. We ran back to the car. Maybe it was the fact that I was in class II hemorrhagic shock from the black flies, but the pitch felt hard and heady to me this time!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Neutron Brew (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Great well protected steep and pumpy pitch, but never desperate. Worth doing with Tequila Mockingbird.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Tequila Mockingbird (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Super awesome well protected pitch. No move is crazy hard, it is just steep and pumpy. I also highly recommend the direct variation to the left.... maybe a bit more pumpy than the original line, but great moves, super exciting and perhaps easier to protect.


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