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Member Since: Sep 1, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 9, 2014
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Point Rank: # 6,128
Total Points: 52
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 97 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvments | Comments 52 | Posts 33 | Stars 6 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: This route is nothing special in my opinion, compared to some of the other routes at Poke-O. Very dirty and vegetated when I climbed it. Unlike the typical Poke-O route that might look dirty from below and then has incredible clean climbing once you get on it, this one was actually dirty! Also remember the gear being sketchy, but maybe that's because I was digging moss out of the cracks in order to place gear. I plan to go back to this route and dump a few gallons of agent orange down it. Is tha... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Bushido (Pitch 1 only) (5.10c PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: I have a hard time calling that first pitch 10c.....even for Poke-O!!!!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Did a hold or two break on this? Re-climbed it the other day and it felt quite a bit harder (and less enjoyable) than it did a few years back. And the person I was climbing with who had just onsighted a hard 5.11 had to hang on it....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Opposed RP's on the first horizontal may keep you off the ground.....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Impeccable rock quality. Very well protected - you can sew this route up if you want. A gold camalot clipped short protects the first move. Regarding the grade controvery on this route, if you pull the "tricky move" the right way, it feels easy - like 5.7. If you do it the hard way, it feels like 5.9 in my opinion.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Triangle (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Turdland (5.9 PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: I've always gone straight up at the last bolt. It is a really fun, exposed move, that doesn't seem contrived to me since it is more direct. Its well protected assuming that old bolt is good.....


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Hurricane Crag : My Generation (5.10c)
By: Nick Weinberg When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Second pitch is nice. Carefull clipping the first few bolts on the third pitch, as there is ledge fall potential.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Spelunking Midget (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: Excellent little climb. Well worth doing. Deserves more stars. Very well protected.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Little Kisses (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 20, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps a moderate 5.9 for the ADK's, and especially when compared to Mystery Achievement across the road. But who cares - its still very worth doing. Beautiful pitch!!!!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Nosedive (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Great gear the whole way. You can sew up the crux. I never felt unsafe and I don't like runouts on sketchy gear. Sustained but always a rest in-between moves. Only issue is the zoo that is the uberfall staring up at you while you're climbing......once you isolate your mind from that, it is a pleasure to climb!!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite routes. Always surprised by how few stars it gets in the guide books. The flake moves are really not bad, and the crux is well protected and not so bad if you find all of the rests - and move QUICKLY!! This is a great last climb of the day on your way out when you just have a little bit of light left.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Casual Observer (5.11a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: I think people like to sandbag routes and other people because it somehow makes them feel better about themselves. And I'm just as guilty as the rest of us. By calling a 5.11 pitch a 5.10, it implies that since you are comfortable on 5.11 that this pitch "feels" like a 5.10 to you, which should not be surprising since you are a solid 5.11 climber, and chose to lead a 5.11 in the Adirondacks. You just have to be careful and self aware about this when making absolute statements. Rock climbing is e... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Desperado (5.10b)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Not as enjoyable as I hoped it would be from the ground!!! I think I did it the "way hard" way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Geronimo (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Bozeman Bullet (5.6)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climb, and probably stout for the 5.6 leader. You can skip the first anchor and continue to the top anchor and then lower off in one pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Broken Broom (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: The first 40 feet of this route have extremely satisfying technical moves. You will wish the intial flake goes on forever. You can get very aesthetic photos of this climb by easily scrambling out the ledge at the top of Torcher, just right of the climb.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Amphitheatre Crack (5.9+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Stellar route! Fairly sustained. The top section reminds me of the last pitch of Sons of Yesterday in Yosemite.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Carpenter & Das (5.8)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: Can this be done in 1 pitch with long slings?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Long Play Wall : Long Play (5.10a PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: The start was definitely the psychological crux for me, with tricky placements and risk of a near ground fall, or at least an unpleasant swing. Definitely engaging at the start. The rest the the climb is very pleasant, and would be classic if a bit cleaner, I think. High crux is well protected. Runouts are on easy climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Second Job (5.8+)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Very pleasant moderate crack climbing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Critical Crimps (5.10a)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Parallel Passage (5.9)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: I think this is 5.10. Sustained and harder than it looks, but well protected.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Black Arch ArÍte (5.10b PG13)
By: Nick Weinberg When: Nov 11, 2011

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Comments: Super good is right.


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