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Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.


Member Since: Mar 6, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Nick Stayner


Point Rank: # 198
Total Points: 2,584
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 5
63 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nick Stayner been climbing?










Contributions


All 2082 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 70 | Page Improvements | Comments 319 | Posts 728 | Stars 700 | Ratings 89
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces
By: Nick Stayner When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I would say that the best descent route for this zone (possibly for the whole DeTow) is the Exit Us rap. This is the rap that starts with the two-bolt anchor on top of Cracko Diablo. With about 10' of 4th class downclimbing, a 70m double-rope rappel will reach the ledge at the base of Soler/TAD/Cracko. Watch your ends!

Alternatively, you can take one 70m rope and hit all the stations, getting back to the ledge in 3 or 4 raps.

IMO this area offers the least potential for getting ropes stuck, b... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : Banga (5.11b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Full value, more sustained than most Tensleep routes at the grade.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin K (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: ^agreed. Classic climb.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress : Where the Sidewalk Ends (5.11b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Very unique Tensleep experience. Quality climbing forever! Yes, some of the pockets are a bit dirty, but only because they are massive. Doesn't detract from the experience at all IMO. The "earth journey" comment in the route description here cracked us up!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Hound Dog Crag : HDC 222 (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This one, along with the other unnamed .11a and Middle of the Road are among the best routes in the canyon of the grade IMO. Great climbing on excellent peanut butter stone.


Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Thanks bud, way to promptly fix a stupid situation.


Location: WY : Tongue River Canyon : Snag Wall : Pair of Loaded Guns (5.9+)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Anchor situation on top 9/14/14- the anchor is bomber, but someone connected the chains with a single, substandard quicklink, giving a perfectly good 2-point bolt anchor a single point of failure. Unfortunately whoever did this really cranked on the quicklink and it's going to take a wrench to pull it off. Bring one up if you read this, or I will next time.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Higher Education (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: FA T Bow(man) 2002 or 2003.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sphinx Wall
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Check out Tensleep Canyon's facebook page. Team Horst added them during their visit in July. There's a little topo or beta on them.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: I don't know. My partner and I are both 5.11 so I couldn't say.


Location: WY : Cody : The East Bridge Bands : Soda Fountain Wall : Highway Patrol (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Very nice addition guys. My girlfriend found this to be the most enjoyable route she's climbed on the East Bridge Bands.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Waterfall Walls : Wine in to Ice (WI3- PG13)
By: Nick Stayner When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Cool to see this route in "winter" conditions! Thanks for sharing the photos!


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Allenspur : 7-11 Crag : Flake Fest (5.10b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: ...but quite possibly the first to spray about it!


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Purple Pinky Eater (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Dec 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks!


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Big Eagle Feather (5.11b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: What a fantastic crack climb! I didn't place a #2, 1s to .75s to .5s (2-3 of each would really sew it up). You could place something smaller near the midway anchor, but if you're like me you are probably redlining at this point, so maybe best to just gun it!

Seemed a little hard for .11b compared to Indian Creek climbs of similar sizes. On a later TR I did a quasi-lieback through the purple camalot section at the top which made it feel more like solid .11, but straight-in jamming thru it... more >>


Location: MT : Billings Rimrocks : Phipps Park : Purple Pinky Eater (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Where is this in relation to Big Eagle Feather?


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress : If Dreams Were Thunder (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 11, 2013

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Comments: Stan Price FA


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Zombie Leprachauns (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Awesome climbing, lots of sidepulls & oppositional feet, styles not overly common in Tensleep. Almost felt more like granite face climbing except for the smattering of typically great pockets everywhere. 11d/12a? Doesn't matter! Fantastic addition Charlie & Mike.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Leigh Creek : Upper Psychoactive Wall : Gloom (5.11b/c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: A little bit sharp, but still ranks among best routes of the grade in Tensleep IMO. Rightmost route on the main Psychoactive, pull mini roof to start.


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : The Prow : Timebinder (5.11)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: If I remember right, this route gets sun most of the day, making a cooler fall day an ideal time for an ascent?

Also, anyone know if the raps can be done w/ a single 70m rope?


Location: MT : Bear Canyon : Ant Wall
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Agreed, nicely put Josh.


Location: WY : Crazy Woman Crags : Crazy Woman Cliff
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: After having climbed extensively at both places, any one of the four-star rated climbs at this crag would be a highly travelled, highly chalked classic if it were in Tensleep. Hopefully some more folks will check out the goods!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Downtown : Coolsville : Robot Steamroller (5.12b)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Another Mike Snyder classic! A little bit gritty start leads to fantastic holds and moves on the upper white headwall. Didn't have the time (or juice) to hit the neighboring 12s, but they look equally nice.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Illigitimus Rotundus : Burl Ives Is Dead (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Another fantastic Lake Point route. Couple of options at the crux for climbers of different inclinations. Potential for decent (safe) airtime on the upper headwall!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Lake Point : Downed Tree Wall : Triple Double (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Super cool movement, just as good as Hail Mary. Very fun. Do it!!


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