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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers
By: Nick Stayner When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee- the camping options are obvious once you descend into the Cirque.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Chronic (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, when did posting pages directly out of the guidebook become OK?
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Standard Route (5.9)
By: Nick Stayner When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excessive bail gear on that route is nothing new. One of my climbing partners used to solo the standard route on Monday mornings to collect all the booty left by weekend warriors who got in over their heads. He pieced together quite the rack doing this!
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Commercial Business Plannin...
By: Nick Stayner When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My 2 cents as someone who has been climbing in Sinks since I was in high school- this seems totally unnecessary. Like Vance said, the canyon is doing just fine on its own.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Nick Stayner When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris- lots of good climbing days in May, but also lots of good storms that stick around for a couple days or more at a time. Also, the air temperature can be quite cold still, and remember that the majority of cliffs at Tensleep dip into the shade ~1PM. Depending on the length of your trip, you will probably get some climbable days in there. But if I were you, I'd strongly consider heading to Lander, where Sinks Canyon provides sunny sport climbing on dolomite similar to Tensleep. Plus you can ... more >>
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Location: WY : Cody : The Bridge Bands : Cowboy Wall : Chief of Scouts (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Dec 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.
I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing... more >>
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Location: WY : Cody : The Bridge Bands : Cowboy Wall : Chief of Scouts (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow 45/46 rate this thing 4 stars... gotta be one of the highest quality ratings on Mountain Project! So much fun.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Soft in the Middle (5.11c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "tombstone" has been flexible for a long time. That would be a horrifying hold to have rip, especially since you really have to yard on the thing.... and then stand on it too!
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Bowling for Buicks (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: re: Bull in a China Closet- I tried it once a couple years ago and didn't like it near as much as the others on the wall. Thought the bolting was a little off setting up some really odd clips. Never got back on it.
Others seem to like it though!
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott, I'm not serious- my comment was tongue in cheek, more poking fun at Montana ethics than at you.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, just reread my post and it sounded like I was calling you out! Didn't mean for that, just wanted to make a note in the big overview area about the Meadows/Bowling Alley raps being doable w/ a single 70 since it's the most common descent route for people summiting the Tower.
But I second your comment about not relying on Zach's beta for pitch/rap lengths. Awesome historical photos, decent beta photos, but man, as a guidebook... that thing just falls somewhat short.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Nick Stayner When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just thought I'd add this here since it's the most general spot for Devils Tower beta. Unlike what Brian says above, the Meadows/Bowling Alley rap route can be done with a single 70, off of bomber, obvious two or three bolt anchors. Zach's guidebook topos don't show all the available stations.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Magical Mystery Tour (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Golden knobs forever!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Magical Mystery Tour (5.8 R)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Benjamin- it's an unprotected face that becomes slabbier and slabbier... obviously :).
Toby- Rs and Xs become hard to distinguish in Tuolumne. I find it really surprising that a self-admitted climber not "well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs" would attempt this route! Good on you for pulling it off.
There are plenty of better protected Meadows routes to learn these skills on. Head to Low Profile Dome and check out Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge. Also check out the climbs on the... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah, what an awesome climb.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tioga Cliff Area aka Privat... : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, the glory!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Gram (5.10d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Totally weaksauce suggestion. Sounds like you need to work on your all around climbing and protection skills. I have climbed that route probably more than any other in the Meadows and never had unmanageable drag finishing the Gram. There's good gear (small stopper if I remember right) to be had before pulling the miniroof at the end of the traverse if you actually look for it. And don't forget to put a long sling on it, genius!
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Location: WY : Cody : The Island : Bitch With A Broomstick (5.8)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like Mike's route names. They've given me a chuckle more than once.
Plus, naming probably gets difficult when you've put up as many routes as Mike has! Thanks for all the $$$/hard work/quality climbs Mike!
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Gallatin Tower : Bowling for Buicks (5.12a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So what you're saying is.... prehung draws make clips easier? :)
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Location: WY : Cloud Peak Wilderness Area : The Merlon : Super Fortress (5.11d) : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you guys have a higher res topo you could upload? Some of the text isn't readable. Would love to see it!
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Location: Colonel Mustard : profile : Photo
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wildcat.... wildcat....
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where do you think we are Scott? Montana??
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Carol's Crack (5.11a)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there an actual crux on this thing or is it mostly just sustained?
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Location: WY : Cloud Peak Wilderness Area : The Merlon : Super Fortress (5.11d)
By: Nick Stayner When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, thanks for adding this! Is the rock generally pretty good on this route?
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