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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Straw Turkey (5.10a)
By: Nelson When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A blue TCU protects the mantle quite nicely, there is a little pod that it fits in.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : In Style, Out of Fashion (5.11 X)
By: Nelson When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it was bolted on lead long run out on the easy turf, and bolt ladder on the tuff section. I really liked the climb or the top half any way. The bottom is run out, but if you climb 5.11+ it's no issue because the holds are huge. The real fun starts after you hit the second bolt steep side pulls on small crimps.
I also did a variation that started in a seam to the right of the climb, it ends below the hand crack top out for Great White Crime. Bring ballnuts and RPs for the start then plac... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Liquid Acrobat (5.12a R)
By: Nelson When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a hard climb but really doesn't deserve the R rating. Me and a buddy from Boulder hopped on it one day for the onsight, but I was shot down right off the ground. I had placed a orange TCU from one move up and slipped the cam held though. We then pulled the rope and I remember getting a blue TCU below the crux and a purple a foot higher the purple also held a fall. It was super dope stepping right onto a polished nipple and hitting the flare that starts the upper crack. The top is a cake wa... more >>
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock : Shocker (5.12a X)
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya I placed a Green Ballnut after the fling for the upper crack. I would love to solo it.
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Location: Caleb-B : Rocks : Photo
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got you to do your first free solo there.
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Location: Caleb-B : Rocks : Photo
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey isn't that were that solder got killed from the lighting strike?
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Location: Caleb-B : Rocks : Photo
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahh yes good ole E-Rock.
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Location: Caleb-B : Rocks : Photo
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice wall I like the design.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you don't clip the chains you can climb out the steep section onto a ridge that takes you to the belay ledge for 99% Pure. It's like a 5.7R but makes for a easy top rope on 99% Pure, since you are not supposed to solo the gully to the right.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : The Deal (5.11d)
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clip the chains and climb Cold Turkeys it makes for a great pump.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, Tim I rap off the back side with one 60m and end up at the start of Kor's Corner. All that is left is to pull your rope and down climb 10ft of chopped steps to the base.
BEWARE IT IS A FULL 60M RAP. It is such a full rap you can't tie knots in the ends or you will be semi-suspended over the slab.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Up Until Sunrise (5.11b/c)
By: Nelson When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the route is height dependent. I am pretty tall and it's about a 5.11C for me at the top bolt. I also don't think it's a 5.12, because I was able to rope solo it and I am not climbing that hard yet.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs
By: Nelson When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do you get to that dome, Rob?
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Falls Wall : The Fat Raisen Sings (5.11b)
By: Nelson When: Aug 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone lead this one? It looks killer!
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : New Era (5.7)
By: Nelson When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dose anyone else out there think the first anchor needs to be replaced? The eye on the BD type angle is extremely poor and the old ring angle...well it's just that old. Such a high use pitch should have a bomber belay anchor.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Nelson When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I rap off the tower, I use a single 60M rope. It can be a little tuff to get started to pull but well worth leaving that extra rope in the car.
Also, if you look off to the north side of the tower, you will see the manmade trench from pulling ropes! Therefore, the chains must extend past the lip so as to reduce further unnecessary scarring of thr rock (the top of Pot Holes is also pretty bad as well). Also, the chains on the back side of the tower help to keep them outta sight and outta mi... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Pure Energy (5.11b/c)
By: Nelson When: Aug 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A key hold above the second pin has fallen off (the small hour glass flake). It did leave a crumbly edge but is hard to use as is until it cleans up. If the edge withers away you can go left to a two finger pocket witch makes the climb easier.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Reality Check (5.8)
By: Nelson When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm.... Dose anyone think this was over bolted?
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : South Ridge (descent route) (5.0)
By: Nelson When: Jun 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to say I got bitched at for down climbing the Tourist Gully the other day. Said something about a rope if your on the rock and above 10' (LOL first bolt about 40' up). I guess you could sling basketball-sized boulders or better yet maybe I'll slam in some 1/2" bolts Bolder Canyon style (every 3' along a hand crack). There were climbers below me, and I don't know if you were to rap and pull a rope up there you run a chance of dislodgement of rocks to down below. Well anyway, you have ... more >>
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