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Member Since: Nov 13, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 485
Total Points: 1,290
Last Year: 62
Last 30 Days: 19
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nelson Day been climbing?










Contributions


All 1367 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 213 | Page Improvements | Comments 160 | Posts 119 | Stars 545 | Ratings 324
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Lost and Found (5.11b/c)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: This route will be great when it cleans up a bit more. I felt that the roof crack was just as hard as the slab above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : This is Only a Test (5.12)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: I'm 5'8". No go. Would love to see someone my height do this climb so I can steal their beta!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : The Antichrist (aka Small T... (5.10d)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: 2nd bolt is really spinning and was terrifying to climb above. Top bolt with bail link was also loose. I stemmed the corner near It for a few moves and then edged over /long finger tip reach across to the first jug. Big swing to a "gotcha b*tch" grab onto the first jug. Exciting!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : EBGB's (5.10d)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Hibbitty Gibbitties just before the top of the climb for sure (last smear way above the bolt)!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Double Dogleg (5.7)
By: Nelson Day When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Jack of Hearts (5.9)
By: Nelson Day When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: 1 star is very generous.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Nelson Day When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Trip report from me and RNClimber's trip Trip report


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Nelson Day When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: New trip report:
Red Dihedral Trip Report


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Wet Dreams (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Quite the physical route. The slot you get into is slanting towards the ground. You feel like you are constantly fighting the slot from spitting you out. I was breathing VERY hard after I got to the end of the finger rail traverse. Super fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Nelson Day When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Trip report for Inti Watana to Resolution Arete linkup:

joshuatreeclimbinglifeguides.c...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Mercedes (5.11-)
By: Nelson Day When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: I didn't manage to find any pro. Soloing to the first bolt is def. R. Didn't see really much for gear options, but some may exist. My R rating is only for the beta I used. A tricam looked like it would have fit well in a pod near the bottom. I didn't have one.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Eureka! (5.12a)
By: Nelson Day When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : The Sorcerer : Sorcerer's Crossing (5.12-) : Photo
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Nice color coordination clothing and accessories for the photo!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: I also found this to be one of the hardest .11a's I have done in the park. I would equate it with hot rocks as well. I passed the bolt no problem. The real meat of the climb begins with the thin overhanging rattly finger cracks with improbable gear. I fell from the stance above the bolt before I could reach to place gear (feet almost to the bad jam which was too large for me to jam). I took a pretty hard fall- about 15 feet, nearly factor 2 I would say. I stopped about 4 feet above my belayer's ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: Excellent. The finger crack is amazing. Flows really well, protects well (gear is a bit fiddly - imagine placing cams or nuts in super grainy granite with large crystals, because this is what you will be doing!). I placed a number 2 about 10 feet off the deck, then placed a number 1 above it and removed the number two. Then worked up to the rest where the traverse starts, placed the number 2 again to the left, and took out the number one. Backed up the number 2 with a number 3 about 5 feet to th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Nelson Day When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Good beta on gear (double up to 0.5, single up to BD3). I took a double rack of aliens and single 0.75, 1, 2, 3. Lots of slings (I took 14). Did to the top of pitch 4. All excellent pitches! Thank you for the bolt replacement


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : The Cathouse : Little Brown Jug (5.6)
By: Nelson Day When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: The OP indicated cams for anchors. This has a bolted anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Nelson Day When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I would have given this route more stars except I hate hanging belays! The bolting doesn't even make sense at the anchor spots. On two of the hanging belays, there was a reasonable (more reasonable at any rate) spot just next to the hanging belay that would have been much more comfortable. I know, I know, suck it up right?

The anchor at the top of pitch 3 is still missing a bolt.

Bring 20 draws and link pitches 2 and 3. Really.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Pente (5.11-)
By: Nelson Day When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I took 5 0.75 (green c4) cams and used all of them. You burn one right off the bat on the section before the roof. The upper section takes them well. I also took 9 #1 (red C4) and placed all of them. Such a good line! I didn't place any finger sized pieces. I did place one #3 c4 at the pod at the base of the main crack (just above the roof). I placed a couple #2 (yellow c4) cams as well at the roof.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11)
By: Nelson Day When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Plaque at the bottom says .12-, which was what the FA party gave it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Fred (5.11a)
By: Nelson Day When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This route certainly keeps your attention. The upper bolts are pretty run out. I would recommend being pretty solid at sustained .10+ climbing before leading this. It is definitely a cerebral climb; there isn't much given to you and the cruxes are sequency. I certainly wouldn't want to fall on any of the mantles. After the first bolt I ran it about 12 feet and placed a tiny brass nut. I ran it about 15 feet above the nut before getting to the second bolt, and had to mantle to clip it. ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Edgehogs (5.10c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: P4 on this was an intense lead. The pro in the last 50 feet to the anchors is bad and extremely fiddly. A heads up pitch for sure. The rock is somewhat dirty, slippery and exfoliating, which adds to your concerns (probably due to the fact that this route turns into a water fall when it rains - I witnessed this first hand). I destinctly remembering wanting to shit my pants near the top of the 4th pitch when I was 40 feet above good gear and looking at another hard(er) series of movements to easie... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Green Arch (5.11c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Led this thing on 8/24/13. It really is excellent. The pitons were in good shape, but I backed most of them up with gear. DMM offset nuts were great, as well as small cams (C3's, aliens). I brought the BD micro nuts (the steel nuts) but didn't place any. Super high quality route, and very sustained. The topo in the new Bob Gains book is a little misconceiving. I left the arch about 8 feet too early and ended up somewhere one on of the mechanics route pitches? Stopped at a really good finger crac... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Highway 38 Crags : Onyx Summit Crag : Cliptomania (5.12a)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Without route beta, this would be a very difficult onsight. Took a while to figure out the big move left (the crux move). The arete above is simply excellent rock and great movement. Definitely recommend.


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Walla Walla Wash : Just the Tip (5.10b/c)
By: Nelson Day When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Contrived. Yes, you can climb it, by why bother with so many other good climbs up at Yellow Pine wall?


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