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Member Since: Apr 24, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact nelissam


Point Rank: # 8,993
Total Points: 24
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (71) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos | Comments (14) | Posts (3) | Stars (17) | Ratings (36)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Day Saver

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

WY : Vedauwoo : ... : John's Tower

Jul 26, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Crosswinds : The Bends (a.k.a. Decompres... (5.12d)
By: nelissam When: Jul 5, 2013

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Comments: The route is great, and the climbing is enjoyable. FYI: clipping the second bolt seemed to be the crux, and blowing that clip would likely lead to you decking onto the ledge. Your belayer (if still on the ground) cannot see you until you emerge from the second bolt above the ledge. An easy way to avoid this is to go in direct to the 1st bolt on the head wall and pre-clip the second bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10)
By: nelissam When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Fun Route! I ended up placing a new BD #5 at the beginning and walking a #6 for most of the way.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Call Me Barney (5.11c)
By: nelissam When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Hahahaha, 11c? I belayed Cedar on it and top-roped it. Opening moves are reachy followed by a very difficult moves with bad feet to gain the lieback above. It's one of the best 5.12s I've tried at Vedauwoo :)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: nelissam When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Radical! Can't wait to try it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: nelissam When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: What are the best shady walls to climb at in the summer? I'm looking for crags with variety but with emphasis on wideness.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Nobody's Home (5.12b/c)
By: nelissam When: Apr 29, 2012

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Comments: Topher really unlocked a gem here!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Nukanator (5.12-)
By: nelissam When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: I have small fingers, but 12- seems a bit much. Sandbag alert! It would be way harder than that if you have big fingies.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: nelissam When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: I'm 5'3, so for me, it felt like 12a. I had to use small feet to get choked up on the sloper and then had to jump. Enjoyable movement.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Hydraulic Pump (5.12+)
By: nelissam When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: First changing corners is definitely the crux, especially if you have small hands and purple juniors is your worst size ;) But, you get rewarded with a few good thin hand jams in the relentless layback.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Steel Pulse (5.11+)
By: nelissam When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Burly!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : East Germany (5.13a)
By: nelissam When: Mar 27, 2011

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Comments: Interesting crux with fun movement. Slightly reachy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : The Host (5.11-)
By: nelissam When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: The rumor is that this climb was named after the late Micah Dash. The neighboring climb, the hostess, was named after his longtime girlfriend, Amelia Patterson.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Final Exam (5.11a)
By: nelissam When: Jun 30, 2010

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Comments: I did this climb yesterday. I placed a blue TCU, a gray TCU, and a small nut, I think a BD size 3 nut. The gray TCU and the BD size 3 nut go right next to each other in the small parallel crack where the hard climbing starts. If you place them right, they are bomber. It felt hard for the grade!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: nelissam When: Apr 24, 2009

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Comments: Just as a heads up, the second pitch is a little scary now due to the fact that a questionable nut has been wedged into the perfect TCU placement above the piton. The nut is about 1/3 a way in, I guess some people tried to get it out, but then stopped....


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?General ClimbingnelissamFeb 21, 2013
re: need suggestions for mid october sport climbingColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionnelissamAug 27, 2012
re: Best Crack Trad ClimbingnelissamMar 23, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

The Day Saver 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

WY : Vedauwoo : ... : John's Tower

Layaway Plan 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Nobody's Home 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock

The Umph Slot 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

CO : Boulder Canyon : The Dome

Serpant's Rising 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Crosswinds

Grins 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Wind and Rattlesnakes 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Rode Hard Wall

Dementia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag

Ruby Shooter 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Hot Tamale Wall

Big Dog 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

CO : Golden : ... : The Dog House

The Bends (a.k.a. Decompression Sickness) 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Crosswinds

Caballero Del Norte 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Hot Tamale Wall

Waterboarding 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Berlin Wall

Fiddler on the Woof 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

CO : Golden : ... : The Dog House

Mighty Dog 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : The Dog House

Cathedral of the Mad Feline 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Tomahawk Slam 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

WY : Wild Iris : ... : Rode Hard Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Squeeze Play

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : Primo Wall

Beer Run

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

CO : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave

Hydraulic Pump

5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

UT : Moab Area : ... : 4X4

East Germany

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Berlin Wall

Your Mother

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

The Bends (a.k.a. Decompression Sickness)

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Crosswinds

Notorious

5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : High Wire Crag

Cathedral of the Mad Feline

5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

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