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Following Kerry on Hawk (5.4) at the Gunks (Trapps) 9/11/08.


Member Since: Oct 5, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 13, 2013
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: Neil Steinert When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: I liked the 2nd pitch (it is grassy with lichen). The first pitch is better and more cruxy in my opinion.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Loose Goose (5.6)
By: Neil Steinert When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: I did this one again today and made the same mistake I did a few years ago. Somehow I manage to get into this open book to the *climber's right* of where it looks like Loose Goose goes -- I'm using the current Williams guide book -- I don't believe this 'open book' is the 5.8 that is left of Loose Goose called "Crack Climb" (5.8), but unfortunately the guide book isn't clear about this. I suppose it could be the 5.8 variation listed in the Loose Goose description, but it isn't clear. Anyway, for... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Bush (5.7)
By: Neil Steinert When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Lead this yesterday. If you're doing both pitches, it's definitely better to lead up past the rap station at the top right of P1 climbing over towards the Rusty Trifle belay. Then do the Bloody Bush belay for P2 from there. You definitely avoid drag that way. A bit tricky to protect the sketchy traverse on P2. All in all, great climb!!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5)
By: Neil Steinert When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Not sure why the negative comments, I thought the climb was great. I lead it yesterday and it was a bit wet, but still very enjoyable. Good pro if you look for it. No drag with shoulder length runners and maybe a long one at the arete.
The very beginning of P1 is run out before your first piece of pro, but was good climbing. On P2 at the top I think I went off route and went straight up through a cracked roof with an old pin/ring. Fun, but I think that I didn't put enough slings there and had s... more >>