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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Electric Boobs (5.9+ PG13)
By: nbrown When: 21 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 2 pitches can and often have been done as one long classic pitch.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Lakeview Area : Lakeview (5.10a/b)
By: nbrown When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It is quite reasonable to stem off of the smaller pine tree to the left to get started. It involoves an extra 5.10+ish move to gain the good holds, but the bolt is easily stick clipped if you're not up for the extra excitement.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Good Samaritans (5.9+)
By: nbrown When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff, I think that you missed the best part... the upper hand crack. Fun route, hopefully the PI won't overtake it again. I used a new #4 camelot deep in the wide section, but a #5 would have been much better if I'd had it with me. The last overlap in the crack was a bit tricky, especially since it was damp at the time.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike A,
You're right about the dead tree. There should be some discussion soon about placing an anchor out to the climbers right at the top of Cornflake's 3rd pitch. I also agree that it would be ideal to have an anchor on top of the second pitch of Cornflake as well. This would facilitate a single rope rap from any route on the buttress.
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Location: NC : Lettered Rock Ridge : ET Wall
By: nbrown When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Checked it out the other day. Very nice and compact wall. Same great rock as Hawksbill and the Linville River Crag. The trail is quite a nice mtn bike ride too, though I'm not sure where it leads to after the crag. Has anyone here been any further? Also, where are those tall slabs in relation to this crag?
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag
By: nbrown When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, glad you enjoyed the place. We had a great time going down there and climbing those new lines...
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Hocus Focus (5.12a)
By: nbrown When: May 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually Brian Williams beat Tim to the FFA by a week or so.
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Yardarm (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like someone clipped the first bolt on "Bannana Breath". I guess that makes it safer, but also harder.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Warm Up Route (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route climbs the overhanging white and orange wall (buttress) that is recessed back in the 2 pitch gully. It is located between the 5.8 arete and 2 pitch. The steep white face to the left of the 5.8 arete is "Solar Plexus".
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Into The Void (5.10c/d)
By: nbrown When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun climb! I thought that the steep slab up high was the crux.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : The Main Wall : Los Desaparecidos (5.10- R)
By: nbrown When: Oct 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee C. lead this today and only found 3 bolts. I couldn't remember for sure, but I sure thought that there were more than that. Sorry Lee... Nice job though. Got some good gear up and left near the end where Douglas ran it out so far.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Metal Meltdown (5.11b)
By: nbrown When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route with a good name. The climbing on the upper part is excellent. The 2nd bolt is still a spinner though...
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Velveeta (5.8)
By: nbrown When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has apparently been "upgraded" with bolts as of September '08. It has 5 or so bolts and a new set of anchors. Look for the shiney new plated Fixe hangers.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Reckless Criminal (5.11)
By: nbrown When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has several variation top out's. It has bolts that go to the right on pitch 2 that are said to be the harder way, and other variations to the left that are easier, and go on all gear. There is a single bolt anchor at the top just under the tree ledge.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Granite Man (5.10a)
By: nbrown When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route apparently has a second pitch that goes on gear to another set of bolts near the top.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : Desperado Wall : Thunderstruck (5.11b/c)
By: nbrown When: Aug 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Tim. Got it.
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Location: NC : Closed : The Dark Side : The Main Wall : Limited Access (5.9+)
By: nbrown When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found 5 bolts on the first pitch. That is of course, if I was on the correct route.
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Twist and Shout (5.9+)
By: nbrown When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor bolts on this route need some work. They are 5 piece type bolts, and they are both spinners. I tried tightening them down with no luck. The threads are probably just stripped. This prevents them from being tightened down further and accommodating the extra play (caused by the wearing of the rock surface under the hangers). If I lived there I'd fix this myself, but I don't.
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Photo
By: nbrown When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just walked down the "golf cart" trail to the opening in the trees and snapped this photo. There's a nice little arboretum in the making down there. Must be nice to be filthy rich...
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Dixie Reality
By: nbrown When: Apr 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any FFA yet?
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Indecent exposure (5.11d)
By: nbrown When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like many other folks, I had been looking at the wall for a long time too. I just figured that it was no good. But after temporarily running out of interesting routes to do in the area, I finally went up there and got on it. To my amazement the rock was only chossy for the first 10 feet or so, and then it became very good. Both routes are on some of the best rock found at Table Rock. Both climbs were done last Summer (yeah, not the best season, given the south facing nature).
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Location: NC : Photo
By: nbrown When: Apr 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick, thats Tim Snyder. I never really considered him a "beauty" though. Just kidding.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Vascular Disaster (5.11c PG13)
By: nbrown When: Feb 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the rating is a bit of comprimise. The start is 12, but the rest is probably no harder than 11a/b. So they call it 11c...
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Kosmonauts (5.11b)
By: nbrown When: Jan 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route Tim. Interesting (not to mention very hard) fist to offwidth crack, although not in the conventional sense, since there is no way to chicken wing or hide half inside as one would on a vertical crack. The face above is quite a bit of fun! Very well featured rock. I'm gonna have to give the redpoint another hard effort soon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: nbrown When: Jan 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a fun route!
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