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Member Since: Nov 6, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact nbrown

Point Rank: # 81
Total Points: 5,455
Last Year: 504
Last 30 Days: 17
144 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has nbrown been climbing?










Contributions


All 1790 | Routes 246 | Areas 34 | Photos 453 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 214 | Posts 286 | Stars 543 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Safari Jive (5.11c)
By: nbrown When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the wasp nest in the 5.10 traverse of pitch 1. As of 7/10/16 they were quite active. This does not affect the standard 5.8 that goes to the hex anchor.


Location: NC : Pickens Nose : Rock House Knob : Upper Deck (roof crack) (5.11)
By: nbrown When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: There are currently 2 yellow jacket nests on the ledge near the base of this route. One is in the hardwood tree that's leaning against the dead hemlock, the other is under a rock to the climbers' right of the start. Stay on the rock ledge beneath the route if you plan to be on the ledge this summer.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Fear of Flying (5.9+)
By: nbrown When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: To whomever took the biners off the anchor: Please return them, as they are part of the anchor and are important for keeping the rope from becoming twisted. This is not an uncommon configuration nowadays - biners on anchors are rarely booty. Thanks.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Unknown face right (5.10)
By: nbrown When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: This is a ways right of the bolts. Maybe 75' or so. The line listed as unknown 5.9 pg13 is the one with the bolts (2 sets) on it. The route you posted should be left of that as well.


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Old Crow (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Kyle, I added loctite on this route. I generally prefer not to use it on the FA (new bolts). That's because new placements usually develop some wiggle room under the hangers as the rock beneath them wears, requiring further tightening to fix spinning hangers. Loctite or lock-nuts can make subsequent tightening of nuts problematic for wedge type anchor (i.e. disengaging the wedges).


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
By: nbrown When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Looks like the old rap tree at the top of P-3 of Cornflake and The Womb finally parted ways with the ledge. The bolted rap anchor that I put in (a few years back) to replace the tree is a bit more exposed to get to now -- the tree took out a good bit of earth -- so be careful on the traverse.


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag : The Cave : Old Crow (5.11-)
By: nbrown When: Mar 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolt 3 hanger has been fixed.


Location:
By: nbrown When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: 1. Clip the bolt-end biner where the spine rests against the rock (or flip it over). Or simply clip the ring instead (these anchors tend to gouge biners anyway). Prevents breaking the nose of the biner as well as accidental opening of the gate should it be pushed against the wall (the latter situation is largely reduced with modern notch-gate biners).

2. Untwist the draws. Twisted draws will want to naturally untwist, resulting in a twisted rope or either a rope unclipping itself from them (hap... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Unknown 12a (5.12a)
By: nbrown When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Rebolted this one today. The old bolts looked horrendous but actually weren't as bad as they appeared. Much better now though.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : The Underworld
By: nbrown When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Taylor,
This pic of the Gold Coast shows the northern "canyons". The Underworld is just a bit south (left in picture) of what you can see in this photo. The best approach takes the shortcut shown here on the left side of the pic (down from the high ridge), and those directions are posted on the main Gold Coast page. Just be prepared for a potentially raging bushwhack if no one's been through there lately. Once at the RJ trail walk south for maybe 5-10 minutes (haven't been there in a while so do... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Sitting Bear : Sitting Bear Spire : Original Route (5.9)
By: nbrown When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Two of the bolts on this line were updated in '96 with carbon steel 5 pieces. They're quite rusty but probably still pretty bomber. The other two (original bolts) are about 50 years old and should not be trusted - and they're not needed if you place a bit of gear next to them, as mentioned above.

The first bolt shown out right in the picture is on a different route that no ones really does. It was a squeeze job of mine and has recently been removed.

The original start uses a stopper in the in... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Conley Cove : Photo
By: nbrown When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Jonathan - yes, that's the one.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Cool, that makes sense. Thanks for the beta!


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Circus Wall : Bimbo's Bulge (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Did this route today and found the roof to be mid 5.11. There is a good small pocket/edge at the base of where the old hold used to be. I moved more left under the roof than usual and used the pocket for a right handhold to make the big reach. Also, you can get a finger size cam above your head if you want to top rope the move. This route climbs almost the same as before, just with a bigger reach from a smaller hold. Fun stuff!


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: nbrown When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Was up here today trying to figure out which route this was (it'd been over 10 years so my memory was fuzzy). Looks like Tim replaced the pin with a bolt (pin scar right above it), but I couldn't locate any lower first bolt. There were a few rusty wedge bolts just to the right of this line that must be Seths route. Is the left hand line in the pic below correct?
Rock Climbing Photo: Route?
Route?



Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Casual Corner (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Jun 5, 2015

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Comments: The big loose block (that most people pulled on) near the top was trundled a while back making for a safer but slightly more interesting move.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Gold Coast Cliffs : Moonshine Canyon : Photo
By: nbrown When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: For reference: The Underworld is the steep wall at the top of this photo.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef...
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This wall isn't a terrible option while the gates are closed to the main areas. Just go on a dry day and maybe consider bringing a brush along.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : East Face/Guides Wall (Lef... : Moonwalk (5.10+)
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun short route. It had become overgrown with grunge in the 10 years since the FA but I spent a good bit of time cleaning it the other day. Super grippy rock now, go get at it!


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag
By: nbrown When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: A few days ago there was a report of two bolts pulling out at Catheys Creek Crag. Today I had a chance to go inspect and here¬ís what I found: ALL hardware intact and accounted for. I did not climb every route, but could easily count each bolt on every route, and they were all there. Short of someone putting the two pulled bolts back into the bolt hole and re-setting them (highly unlikely), or perhaps an undocumented obscure line off to the side (also highly unlikely), I found no issues of conc... more >>


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Blue Nude (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Okay, thanks for the clarification.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Going for Baroque (5.10)
By: nbrown When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: The pin on the original start fell out in my hand today. However, I managed to excavate enough rock from that crack to open up a bomber .75 camelot slot instead. Regardless, it's probably better and safer to climb the left start anyway.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Stiff Upper Lip (5.11+)
By: nbrown When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, got it.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff - Upper Wall : Blue Nude (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: nbrown When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: Bruce, isn't matisse down on the far right side of the main wall? If I got them wrong I'll change it.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
By: nbrown When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Just a note: I recently changed out the rap hangers above Irish Jig with a set of my own (quicklink-ring combo) to facilitate a better rope pull, as well as to keep the hangers from getting all wonky (like they have been).
Rock Climbing Photo: The new set that should pull easier.
The new set that should pull easier.



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