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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Boy Scout Wall : There Goes the Neighborhood (5.8)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right hand hanger at the top of this route is a touch loose. I had to twist it back around so the rap ring hung properly. The bolt seems good though.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Boy Scout Wall : Unleash the Dragon (5.8)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd agree it is a one move wonder. The first move off the deck is the closest to 5.8. The rest of the route has bomber holds the whole way.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Roadside Crag : ... : My Side of Roadside (5.7)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the climb on the backside of Roadside rock then the anchors up top are super sketch. Both anchors appear to be concrete bolts with double washers and some chain. The anchor climbers left is so loose I pushed it back in with my hand before lowering. The rest of the hardware looks to be pretty well set.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Nine Corners Lake : Middle Earth : ... : Andrugen (V1)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Apr 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't let the chalk marks lead you astray.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Nine Corners Lake : Middle Earth : ... : Tea Time (V0)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Apr 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forgot to bring my camera on the trip so no photos. I'll remember the camera next time.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Nathan Stokes When: Feb 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Speaking of legit at one time, is that a U-Stem Camalot pictured also?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct start variation is pretty burly and run out but I'm not sure I'd rate it at full 5.8. Once up into the seam its pretty straight forward to regain the ledge where the standard traverse joins. This isn't a cruiser by any stretch. The holds are large and abundant, its just that they are so damn awkward and some of the sequences aren't straight forward in my opinion.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: Nathan Stokes When: Jan 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome set of pics.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first true crack climb and I am now a crack addict. The first couple of jams were awkward for me, but once I got the hang of the jamming it was like swimming up the crack. The guide I was climbing with commented that I just floated right up the route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Left Side : Hands Off (5.8)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, might have been easier if I knew how to properly hand jamb. A couple of awkward spots that require some creative movement. Hauling my camera up on a shoulder sling probably didn't help either.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: Nathan Stokes When: Dec 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beta about walking and jamming up the crack didn't make this route seem bad at all. I neglected to rack everything to the left and it made right foot moves awkward, but a good climb still. I also used the large offwidth at the top to chimney up the final vertical which may have made it easier also.
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