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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Watchman : Mythical Kings & Iguanas (5.10-)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chossfunadventure
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishop's Balcony (A1 PG13)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some good images of Jack Miller on Bishops Roof on Ed Cooper's website.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please be conscious of loose blocks on this and other NW Recess routes. We were almost pummeled at the base of The Consolation by a very large block released by a party who was above the Mummy Crack (6/28/2012).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Higher Cathedral Rock : Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jun 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although there are some mandatory wide sections on the route (the squeeze on P7, 5.8 chimney on P11) I wouldn't categorize the NEB as a "wide" climb. More of a whole body workout. It's an unrelentingly physical climb with lots of 5.9 requiring a variety of techniques.
I don't recall anywhere on the route that required true offwidth techniques (armbars, stacks, etc.).
I think it's worth mentioning that many parties do the route in good time. Don't let the comments above scare you. We star... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Bongs Away, Left (5.8)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jun 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know what the "hard looking and overhung offwidth" that arches out left is called and rated? Looks exciting.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Roof Area : Nostalgia (5.11c)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Similarly high in quality to Violator. Slightly more sustained as you near the anchor, IMO.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Mudslide (5.10+)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Apr 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dirty, but fun if you enjoy fists. Bring a couple Black Diamond 3.5s if you have them, otherwise you'll be walking your #4s up the second section. Still casual though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pigs in a Slot (5.10)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are anchors at about 40'. Guidebook says you can traverse to the anchor of Gorilla if you go the distance.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Taboo Area : ... : Photo
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good view of the lower crux also.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Metro Sector : Indecision (5.10d)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We encountered the snake today too. I couldn't tell if it was a hiss or a rattling. 10' below the anchor in the crack. Never saw it but its in there.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Head Area : Indian Head : Goof Proof Roof (5.8 C2+) : Photo
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's the footage? Hook us up!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7) : Photo
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower part of the flake felt committing. Nice photo...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Feb 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We linked 1/2 and 4/5 easily with a 70m rope. We were tempted to also link 6/7 but were glad we didn't. I didn't place any pro on P6 but still had rope drag as I traversed left to the tree. Best to pitch the last two out if doing the bolted final pitch. I agree with the comment above about the 5.8 rating for the final bolted pitch.
The walk-off descent was easy to sort, mellow, and a really scenic hike. From the summit to our car took 3:39 with a stop in the canyon to retrieve our packs,... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : The Misunderstanding (5.9)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jan 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were able to get down from the upper anchor with one single 70M rope rappel. It required some easy 4th class down climbing.
The 2nd pitch corner will take Black Diamond #3s or #4s well.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Erotic Dome : The Awfulwidth (5.8)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jan 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gritty and a bit awkward but still fun if you're in to the wide stuff. I protected it with a nut at the opening move and BD #5 and #6 in the wide. Medium or hand size gear for the anchor. Obvious walk off down through a gritty chimney.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Kamikaze Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Jan 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice stack
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Meat Hooks (5.10+)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Dec 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who owns 10 BD #3.5s and will you meet me in IC (actually, I have one so you only need to bring nine)? How do BD #4s fit?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With tick marks like that this thing's gotta be a giveaway ;-)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Western Swing (5.10)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah looks like we've all given it differing quality ratings. After climbing Jubilant Song and Western Swing I'd opt to climb WS again over JS. Reason being you get the fun chimney pitch of WS and the best pitch of JS (the traverse under the big roof). Not a classic, but if you want a long sunny route on a cold day this might be a better option than queuing up for the Solar Slab routes.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Western Swing (5.10)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this 12/10/11 with Xavier Wasiak in seven pitches. This is how we pitched it out:
P1 ~100' - stemming RF corner to belay at the obvious ledge with a tree. 5.8
P2 ~130' - RF corner through a bush (slung for rappel?) and in to the flared chimney. up the chimney to just before where the chimney closes. 5.9
P3 ~100' - traversed up and right away from the corner system towards the slot. good protection in the corner but thin as you traverse out right. up the slot to ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Sex in the Scrub Oak (5.7)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Handren book shows this route traversing right and up to the higher corner after the crack. There's a lower anchor (two bolts and some webbing) up and left. Above this anchor is a 30' crack that looks soft and steep and has another anchor (two bolts, chain) above. Anyone know what this is called / rated?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Radio Free Kansas (5.7+)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protection is good on this route. I recall placing (2) BD 0.5 and (2) 0.75 pieces. Some others too. Fun pulling over the mini-roof.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can avoid the downclimb by heading over to the bolted rap anchor for The Flue.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Chili Dog (5.6)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Nov 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added this with the rating in the Vogel guide. I'd say it's awkward 5.8. For me at least. The biggest piece I had was one #4. Would have felt better with a #5, maybe two (rather than pro-ing in the crappy deteriorating crack inside the wide).
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d)
By: Nathan Scherneck When: Nov 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't call it a jug haul, but also not thin. Plenty of good rests and well bolted.
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