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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Nate Adams When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Normally, when a post begins with "I have never been on it, but...", I would dismiss it as the rantings of someone craving attention. But I'm bored, and craving attention, so here goes. Eric, by definition, all climbing routes are contrived. Every route ever done, sport, trad or otherwise, has been contrived by someone, even the boldest, hardest solos. Which makes the sport of climbing somewhat of a contrivance, albeit a damn fine way to waste precious time.
So, step away from the computer, cl... more >>
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Nate Adams When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, Chris - glad to hear you enjoyed the route! That lower crux seems to be nearly on-sight proof. I got on it again this summer and had to work out the sequence all over again. From my vantage point, however, I would have to say that the "contrived variation" is busting out left. :)
I broke a footer myself - it sounds like the lower section could be getting harder.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Smoke on the Water (5.11c)
By: Nate Adams When: Jan 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is actually called Smoke on the Water, put up by Mike Argueso & Peter Noebels in 1998.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Nate Adams When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, I'd be totally psyched to know what routes you did, names, grades, approximate dates, etc. As I mentioned in the postings, I gave the mystery routes names only as a temporary measure (Un-named 09 is a pretty boring name, no?). There are a few routes popping up here and there - if you have the scoop on these lines, let me know. By the way, I sent you an email via Mtn. Proj. back in July - you may not have gotten it. Feel free to email me via mtn proj with beta. Cheers, Nate
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on The Throne : Double Cracks (5.10a)
By: Nate Adams When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! This popped up as a featured route and jolted me back 20 years. This was my second (ever) lead, after a bolted 5.7 at Dragons Back in Montana. I'm happy to say I did it clean, but it took an eternity to clip into the rings on slings and rap. I had a serious case of newbie nerves at the anchors, but man, was I psyched!!!!
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Nate Adams When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've updated the topos above.
Regarding sun, west-facing crags go into the shade early afternoon (1:30ish). The North Wall stays shady all day. East-facing crags are shaded by conifers, so you can climb on this side into the afternoon.
There are about a dozen lines left of the Punchbowl - I don't have good beta on these, but I hear there are a few decent routes. Anyone out there have beta?
There are miscellaneous routes popping up here and there, some look quite good. The projects that I'm a... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: Nate Adams When: May 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Ken - Thanks again for your hard work and being a good sport, particularly regarding my prodding comments :). I think the bottom line here is that intentions were good, and improvements have been made, and will continue.
As far as the 'mussy hooks' go, my suggestion is to plead with the ASCA for Fixe's Sport Anchor. The steel quality is almost certainly better than the Chinese material (my humbly biased opinion), and the openings are designed for climbing ropes. I'm sure they would be happy ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Arrogant Bastard (5.12c)
By: Nate Adams When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally named following a cragside encounter with a self-opinionated, egotistical, close-minded and arrogant Boulderite, qualities most certainly atypical of denizens of Boulder. I'd much rather quaff an Arrogant Bastard Ale than have another one-sided conversation with the aforementioned gentleman.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: Nate Adams When: Apr 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hate to point fingers, but the rebolting was egregious. I've been told that Ken Trout moved bolts and anchor locations. I certainly don't want to blame the wrong culprit, so if it was not you, Ken, please say so, and I'll modify this post. Whoever it was, please take the time to talk to the first ascentionist and/or the climbing community to get a consensus before changing the nature of existing lines.
Unless anyone objects, I plan to restore the traverse by replacing the chopped bolt with a ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom, I would concur with Hank, Greg and Richard - the first bolt seems kinda high (and still is). I think that might be why Greg used a crash pad for the start. It would suck to blow the first clip and deck, especially with aging knees. I wouldn't be shy at all about toting a stick clip along.
I most definitely did not re-place original bolts in the same locations, as the original bolts were quite rusty. I plan to place the original bolts on a rad new line in Boulder Canyon. Kidding! :)
Serious... more >>
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Smoke on the Water (5.11c)
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris - I've been able to contact several first ascentionists for Lime Creek - not much info is available as far as route names, etc. for the Punchbowl. All of the existing lines were there before I set foot in Lime Park. I'd say the statute of limitations for route naming has expired, unless someone out there has beta. I vote for "To Send is Bovine".
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Street Hassle received new gear in 2005. The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement.
Note that Drugs, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey were upgraded at the same time. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others.
Regarding Greg's comment about bringing a wrench - I would strongly advise against tightening the nuts unless they are indeed loose, as in a spinning hanger.
Oh, I didn't see any signs of chopping. The bolts had been removed in preparation for re-bolting.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Rip Van Winkle (5.10a)
By: Nate Adams When: Feb 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: More kudos to Kevin.
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/colorado/southplatte.htm
Kevin and company replaced 2 anchor bolts in '05.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Nate Adams When: Feb 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Kevin got that Bosch. Check out:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/colorado/southplatte.htm
Kevin and company replaced 5 anchor bolts and 2 pro bolts in '05.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Photo
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To access the Strategery area, cross the creek at the footbrige, follow the climber trail down stream a quarter mile or so. The trail peters out somewhat after a large boulder, with orange lichen on top. Bushwhack uphill to the tower-like buttress, shown in the topo (I'll work on better directions at some point).
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : Photo
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Prow and the North Wall are on the West side of the canyon. Just before the road dead ends, there is a pullout on the right. A short trail takes you through the willows and across the creek via a couple of foot bridges. After crossing the creek, the trail branches. The right fork takes you uphill to The Prow and the North Wall. The left fork follows the creek down canyon to more climbing.
Climbers can minimize impact by staying on the established approach trail, as indicated by the topo.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Drugs (5.11b)
By: Nate Adams When: Feb 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC:
The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.
I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.
I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.
Greg brings up a good point re... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : The Fornicator (5.11c)
By: Nate Adams When: Mar 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed my prior star rating didn't get averaged with Tod and Rich.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : The Fornicator (5.11c)
By: Nate Adams When: Feb 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: From a purely objective, unbiased standpoint, this gets my nomination for Best Route in the Universe. Three stars, baby!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1
By: Nate Adams When: Feb 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've copied Tod Anderson's comments regarding access issues for Ridge One. There is only one tunnel on the way to the crag. This tunnel is easily bypassed via a trail to the east, which adds a few minutes to the walk. The railroad maintenance guys I've encountered on the tracks have been friendly, but it is probably best to keep a low profile, and avoid walking on the tracks when possible. The maintenance trucks are very quiet - you may not hear one until it's too late.
"It is important to be d... more >>
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