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Topping out on Bloody Mary (5.7), Mt Lemmon


Member Since: Jan 29, 2009
Last Visit: Mar 29, 2013
Contact Nate Myers


Point Rank: # 3,790
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All (129) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (14) | Comments (15) | Posts (50) | Stars (48) | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park
By: Nate Myers When: Apr 1, 2011

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Comments: I made it in a 2WD passenger car last weekend without any issues. Its an old car with maybe a little more clearance than average, but not much. Take it slow and careful and the average sedan/mini-van should be fine. I did puncture a tire on the way in though, so check your spare before heading out...


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Not Rocket Science (5.7)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Fun route!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Suborbital (5.7)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Maybe a little hard for a 5.6, maybe better at 5.7?


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Astrobunnies (5.6)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: This was the most fun for us of the three trad routes in this area.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Space Chimp (5.10)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: This route was great fun. A pumpy crux on bomber holds down low, with a nice rest ledge before the vertical headwall above, which has some nice crimpers.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : The Right Stuff (5.9+)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: I found this much harder than the other 5.9s. Though it looks like a hand crack, the lower portion of the route is more face climbing using some crack features for holds and for protection. The anchor position in the giant hueco is pretty cool though!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Moonstruck (5.9)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: Great route on a nice formation. I didn't think there was a particular crux, just nice sustained movement throughout.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Red Rock Arroyo : Luna Park : East Side : ... : Love Lizards (5.9-)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: The protection opportunities seemed to get a little thin at the top of the crack, leaving a healthy runout on moderate but exposed climbing to the first bolt on the upper face. But maybe I missed a protection opportunity in this area?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Savin my Sanity (5.8+)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: Crux is at the bottom, although there is also a second reachy move to a juggy crack at the back of the next ledge, which involves sort of a mantle/belly flop/high step move. Fun climb that is pure sport, no need for gear like the climbs to the left.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Piston Bully (5.7)
By: Nate Myers When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: This route is the left-most line on the east Bug Springs wall, and shares the same start and first bolt as Rockin' America. The second bolt is high and to the left, after which an excellent layback crack can be well protected with small-medium cams. This route has its own chain anchor, but it is a little high off the ledge for average height folks. This route and neighbors are fun and worth doing.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : The Praying Monk : East Face (5.7 PG13)
By: Nate Myers When: Feb 17, 2009

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Comments: This is nit-picky point, but what the hey. Based on the info provided by Greg Opland in his 1996 "Phoenix Rock II", the 5.3 east face route actually starts by scrambling up and left into the cave created by a large boulder leaning against the Praying Monk proper. From here, one can scramble up (Class 3)a ramp to the first bolt of the East Face route, clip the bolt, step out on the face and climb up. The boulder doesn't actually contact the side of the Praying Monk so it isn't a problem to flip y... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : South Organs : Pena Blanca : ... : The Waffer (5.6)
By: Nate Myers When: Feb 9, 2009

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Comments: I enjoyed this route. It makes a nifty short trad lead for beginners like myself, easy at the grade, good stances to fiddle with gear, and a deep crack down the middle that readily took various types of placements. Really easy climbing on the route proper, crux is probably a balancy move after clipping the first bolt and then moving left.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Little Rubber Ducky (5.7)
By: Nate Myers When: Feb 5, 2009

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Comments: I thought this was a fun route with an airy move over the "bill" of the duck (big overhanging block) where you actually are overhanging the route below, but on giant holds. Fun stuff!


Location: TX : Franklin Mountain Range : Tom Mays Park : Sneed's Cory : The Nock (5.8)
By: Nate Myers When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: I found "lieback the arete" to be a bit difficult on this, there really isn't much to lieback on... The version pointed to me by locals is to climb up a series of cracks to the left of the bolts, clip the second bolt, and make a commiting move involving a heel-hook over to the right onto the arete. I found this a bit spooky, but it was fun (afterwards)


Location: TX : Franklin Mountain Range : Tom Mays Park : Sneed's Cory : Spirit (5.6)
By: Nate Myers When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: For a 5.6 route, this is pretty good. Less contrived than some routes at the 'Cory.