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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 11 mins ago
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Nate Ball
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Point Rank: # 59
Total Points: 6,700
Last Year: 1,471
Last 30 Days: 633
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1967 | Routes 284 | Areas 64 | Photos 538 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 205 | Posts 78 | Stars 539 | Ratings 257
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Gully Route (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: 14 hours ago

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Comments: Checked it out recently and it didn't need a brush... but the start is still hard azz.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Starbuck (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can easily be linked with Moby Dick for one of the longest and most exposed routes at Long Dong. Fantastic though brief climbing up a wild feature to a comfortable top-out belay.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Wonderland (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Done.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Wall Area
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: The route Wonderland, which is the last pitch of the Smoke Bluff Connection, used to have two separate entries. They have been combined and the later entry deleted; all comments, ticks, stars, ratings, and pictures were moved to the original entry. It was then moved from the Wall area to Pixie Corner, where it belongs.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I gave it a 5.7, but I didn't lead it either. I started climbing at Smith Rock and spent a lot of time learning trad in Colorado. Arapiles has the same old-school grading, but a lot of the classic moderates are just straight sandbagged.

Tiptoe Ridge is 5.0?
The traverse on the Bard is 5.5?
The second pitch of Lamplighter is 5.7?

So, out of respect for that style of grading, sure, Pedro is a 5.7. But for the most part, do the grades accurately translate? Not so much.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (4) Bluffs
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The rappel from atop Ali's (grade 6, chain-pulling) is listed as 45m in the guidebook. It is in fact just over 30m, and can be safely done with a single 60m rope.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Some beta from a week-long April stay in the Pines...

Camping reservations can be made online HERE. The Pines campground can get really noisy, even on weekday nights. Some dude was playing "Girls Just Wanna Have Fun" in a minor key at 10pm while the crowd drunkenly yammered on and on. But they were all chill cats in daylight. The Lower Gums might be a better spot for peace and quiet, as the Upper was pretty ... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: D-Minor is the leftmost pinnacle. D-Major is the one just right of Piccolo, with the freestanding boulder in the middle.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (7) Watchtower Faces : The Pinnacle Face : Tiptoe Ridge (5.3)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: There are a million variations to this climb. On the first pitch, I went left for a little more exposure and some possible 5.7-8 climbing. Then you can go up and over the pinnacle, or left around it. From there, it's just an obvious scramble up amazing jugs in an incredible setting. There is no reason to make this more than a pitch-and-a-half.

First belay below the pinnacle, second at the "scoop" in the middle of the upper face, third at the top. Add half a pitch between one and two for the pin... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : D-Minor (5.7+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: I didn't find it tricky or hard to protect. However, when you pull the first upper overhang, it is very easy to kick out your gear, and since it's nothing but slab below (which you probably didn't bother to protect), it could be a long drop.

A cam at the first overhang would solve this problem.

Easily done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

Rappel is off the backside.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: This route is not PG13 in the slightest, though definitely harder than 5.5... let's just say grade conversion isn't an exact science.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (1) Southern Crags : The Atridae : Muldoon (5.7 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Not PG13. A small nut protects the crux, and there is a piton below it.

Two pitches easily combined.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (1) Southern Crags : The Atridae : Agamemnon (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: It was getting dark. Got to the ledge on the right side wall in one pitch and tried to step over from there, but didn't want to tear my groin. Instead of continuing up the crack and stepping over higher, I just down-climbed from there, since my belayer didn't want to follow it.

Absurdly difficult for 5.5? Maybe. But the protection is all there when you need it. As with most routes at Arapiles, the pitches are easily combined.

My advice: near the top, do not aim for the chimney/slab ex... more >>


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Tao : Mek's Mountain : Clear Horizons (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: theuiaa.org/news-316-New-Downl...


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Tao : Mek's Mountain : Clear Horizons (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: Those look like expansion bolts. Any reason for using these instead of the titanium bolts sold by Martin Roberts?


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Kaohsiung : Shoushan Nature Park
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: Kaohsiung Climbing facebook group:
facebook.com/groups/5547124179...

James is your man.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th, 2016, the stone staircase that led down to this area was intentionally destroyed. We assume this was done by the NE Coast Scenic Area folks to prevent access to the fishing below. This was done without any forewarning and no note was left. That's how things are done around here.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ...
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Saithong Resort, top of the hill.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Yao Noi
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: Any updates from the Mountain Shop? What's the situation there?

This article has been circulating in the SE Asia climbing world:
phuketgazette.net/facebook-new...

SAY IT AINT SO!!!


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 14, 2016

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Comments: After many months of nothing happening, I've decided that if anyone thinks it's important to express a sentiment supporting the timely replacement of dangerous bolts with titanium, that you should do it exactly where it matters most...

facebook.com/groups/4492157517...

Just say "Please use your money to replace dangerous bolts with titanium."


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : Heart Wall
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Andrew, please send me a message with a listing of the routes in order and I will edit the page.


Location: International : Are Bolted Anchors Safe at ... : Post : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 5, 2016

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Comments: Certified truth.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Shortcut (5.4)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Lawl.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Zeasi (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: If someone wants to add a description that isn't plagiarism, go for it. I don't have the book handy, and frankly don't care, so will leave it as is until someone proactively makes an effort to improve it.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is described as though climbing the bottom half of Plausible, pulling the roof, then continuing up the left side of the face. The initial slab is really easy, and all routes were FA'd without bolts on this section. At the roof, you can plug some gear and pull it directly (10+, airy), or just step left following Plausible, then once above the roof step back right and follow obvious weaknesses to the top of the wall. The grade must be for continuing up the face after t... more >>


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