Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Nate Ball


Point Rank: # 99
Total Points: 4,033
Last Year: 1,695
Last 30 Days: 15
33 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Ball been climbing?










Contributions


All 1219 | Routes 202 | Areas 28 | Photos 294 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 117 | Posts 37 | Stars 360 | Ratings 179
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Main Attraction (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: From the slabby ledge belay above pitch 2, instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch to the left, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for Freakshow. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Freakshow (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: To approach this route, climb Main Attraction to the slab belay above pitch 2. Instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for this route. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway. The belay ledge is quite comfortable, and I have been told the route is quite fun as well.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Galen's Crack : Galen's Crack (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Small fists make this an absolute thrutch-fest.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: New C4 #5 is quite nice for both the P1 belay and the off-width on P3. Don't underestimate the walk-off.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Face The Wall (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Where is this route?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (2) Clocktower : Diagonal (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is totally incredible. It takes you through all of the coolest features on the Clocktower, and some of the most consistent jamming at the Dong. Easy scrambling to the leftward traverse, some seriously overhanging tufa-like sickness, to a rest where it crosses Wedding Day, into the crux jam long throw to the flake step around. Gotta go back and red-point this beast.

In just 40ish feet this thing packs a punch!

Oh yeah, and double up on gear from 1/2" to 3/4".


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Sorry Valentine (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Danger, do you think the first three bolts down low are an actual line?

In my mind, the buttress has only one line which follows the weakness straight up the middle. The first three bolts on the left line force you to do some (subjectively) stupid climbing, and the last bolt on the right line is on an impossibly blank face. Thus my entry for Sorry Valentine.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Security Blanket (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Brian! Come back, climb this route on gear, then tell us (the "hardmen") what you really think.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Wonderland Fairy (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The glue-in bolts are staggering...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A stick clip is highly recommended for climbing any of the hard sport routes here. The bolts aren't necessarily high, but you have to step onto a 2-meter bench and then pull super-awkward bouldery moves to mount the face on most routes.

Or just do what 阿郎 does and swing a bight of rope into your draw...


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Aus der Traum (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You can start this route from Teamwork and step right, from Yosemite Crack and step left, or boulder straight up the bolt line to the ledge (5.10+).

Continue straight up the obvious hand crack (10-). The long diamond-shaped flake near the top is completely detached, but is wedged into the crack. Don't place gear in it and it should be fine.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Goldline (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: How did he get back down?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Gold Club (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : Gold Member (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Can be continued to the top of the wall (5.8)


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : The Snake Strikes (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: aka Super Snake


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay East : ... : Cash Flow (5.8+)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: aka Voie du club alpine Thailand


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : ... : Allo, La Terre (5.10a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: DO NOT CLIMB! This route is protected by expansion bolts.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Kho Yao Noi
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For those who have been here, is there an updated guidebook?

For those who haven't, Phi Phi is much better. Don't bother.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Guidebook amended.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Laoliang : Captain Thin (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Also known as "Captain Fat"?
- King Climbers 8th edition


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : ... : The Best Route In Minnesota (5.11a)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Onsight, so must be soft. This route is equipped with 316 stainless steel and Hilte 500 glue (the good kind). Although not ideal, the bolts looked far better than routes with white glue. But I guess it's not about what you can see...


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Crystal Flame (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Has the "Glowing Tunnel" pitch been rebolted with titanium as well?


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The 8th edition King Climbers guidebook has the routes as following...

(1) The Candlestick
(2) Crystal Flame / Glowing Tunnel
(3) The Red Line
(4) Thai Stick


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Easy Skankin' (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route isn't in my 8th edition King Climbers book. Where is it in relation to the other routes here?

Is it the same as Kaya?

What kind of bolts are on this route?


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>