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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Point Rank: # 67
Total Points: 5,884
Last Year: 1,393
Last 30 Days: 383
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1795 | Routes 264 | Areas 52 | Photos 454 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 188 | Posts 78 | Stars 509 | Ratings 248
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ...
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Saithong Resort, top of the hill.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Yao Noi
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: Any updates from the Mountain Shop? What's the situation there?

This article has been circulating in the SE Asia climbing world:
phuketgazette.net/facebook-new...

SAY IT AINT SO!!!


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 14, 2016

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Comments: After many months of nothing happening, I've decided that if anyone thinks it's important to express a sentiment supporting the timely replacement of dangerous bolts with titanium, that you should do it exactly where it matters most...

facebook.com/groups/4492157517...

Just say "Please use your money to replace dangerous bolts with titanium."


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : Heart Wall
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Andrew, please send me a message with a listing of the routes in order and I will edit the page.


Location: International : Are Bolted Anchors Safe at ... : Post : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 5, 2016

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Comments: Certified truth.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Shortcut (5.4)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Lawl.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Zeasi (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: If someone wants to add a description that isn't plagiarism, go for it. I don't have the book handy, and frankly don't care, so will leave it as is until someone proactively makes an effort to improve it.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Guava Banana (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: This route is described as though climbing the bottom half of Plausible, pulling the roof, then continuing up the left side of the face. The initial slab is really easy, and all routes were FA'd without bolts on this section. At the roof, you can plug some gear and pull it directly (10+, airy), or just step left following Plausible, then once above the roof step back right and follow obvious weaknesses to the top of the wall. The grade must be for continuing up the face after t... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jon or Micah... shouldn't this route be broken up into its separate parts? Most of the comments could be partitioned into Dastardly or Dod's. The descriptions of both could be upgraded from their current format.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Sickle (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Oh god this is not a 5.8 or I have gotten really bad at rock climbing.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Frodo's Journey (5.9+)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Good climb, and safe if you bring a 1" and 2" piece, otherwise... don't fall. The traverse sequence is cryptic and/or that "+" adds several letter grades... like so many other routes at Broughton. And this route is 65 feet long, not 45, in case anyone cares.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: If you're new to basalt, or otherwise unfamiliar with the crag, warm up on some easier routes. This place is infamously sandbagged, especially at the lower grades.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: After five years, I came back to this route. Pretty good climb, though I have to say the grade is somewhat sandbagged, unless you're comparing it to other routes at the crag (The Sickle 5.9, Gandalf's Grip 5.9+, Lost Boys 5.10d, etc). Slickness wasn't so much of an issue as I was expecting it, but it's definitely noticeable.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 5, 2015

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Comments: From Colin's original description, which has combined with this one...

Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade IV
Consensus: YDS: 5.11c
FA: Raoul Sauco, Jake Darmopil

Description
Pitch 1. 5.10c. Beautiful, sustained, gently overhanging hands. Over graded in current guidebooks.

Pitch 2. 5.11c. challenging hands and fingers. As the crack peters out make a committing reach (dyno for the short) to a decent hold and pull over the arete. Very exciting, but safe with good pro.

Pitch 3. 5.5 easy slab ... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Any updates on what the status of a lot of the bolts is?

Rebolting should begin soon. There has yet to be a verified failure of 316 stainless, and thus life expectancy exceeds 10 years. Read through this thread if you wish to know more:
mountainproject.com/v/are-bolt...

Is it still worth going? Or are too many of the bolts of questional integrity to make it safe?

With just a little extra precaution, you will... more >>


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Kaohsiung : Shoushan Nature Park : (1d) Skyline
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Kaohsiung Climbing Community
facebook.com/groups/5547124179...

James is the guy you want to get in touch with.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Concord Tower : North Face Var. Right (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: Yes to the #4! When I did it, I bumped a tipped-out #3 for the last 20'... less than ideal.

A single 60m rope works if you rap from the summit to the east, then from a tree at the notch down to an uncomfortable spot with a slung constriction, then to the 1st pitch ledge, then to the ground. Ugh.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : SW Rib (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: After looking at several (too many) sources of info on this route, we got confused about which pitches started where. Our first mistake was to come in from above the chockstone. This is really lame, it's hard to find the traversing downclimb to the left-leaning "Wavy Crack," and this downclimb involves stepping on dead trees directly above a death-plummet. Don't do this. Start at the Y-shaped tree at the base of the wall. Didn't do this pitch so can't comment on it.

The "Wavy Crack" is a lot of... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : Apron Boulders
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: No idea what that Kaboom! notice had to do with anything. It's been deleted.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Bilbo Baggins (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: The original description was for a route possibly once known as "Sour Grass" but that is called "Gollum" in Bourdon's guidebook. This is the 5.7 that starts in the deep corner. I have changed the description to include what y'all have said, but kept the grade 5.9 because that's what it gets in the guidebook.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Deep Sleep (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Getting into the pod just below the hand crack is the crux. The rest of the route is fun jamming and stemming.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Heart Throb (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: At the second roof, go right around the arete. There are hidden face holds that make it easier than finishing left.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Student Wall : ... : Schools Out (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: You will not use gear larger than 1" on this climb, unless you have at least a #5. Very much an off-width climb.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (yy) Basalt Rimrock : Northern Point : ... : If I Ran the Circus (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Big Drum (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Hopefully everyone who climbs at LD knows that bolt failure is not a freak accident. It was just a silly turn of phrase. Some titanium has been installed (one for the anchor of Fingercrack, all the anchors at Euro Wall, and others) but many local "experts" have their doubts about its safety...


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