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Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 95
Total Points: 4,189
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Last 30 Days: 155
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1307 | Routes 207 | Areas 28 | Photos 312 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 133 | Posts 40 | Stars 387 | Ratings 198
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Stone Z (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: Now THAT is a route write-up Mr. Danger!


Location: OR : Pete's Pile
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This is a sweet-ass trad zone. Views of Mt. Hood's elusive east side and the rushing Hood River below. Splitter basalt columns an hour-and-a-half from Portland. Unknown predecessors have already put up a score of great climbs which are badly in need of some TLC. A crew of us will hopefully be doing some work up there in the next few months - fortifying trails, cleaning cracks, trundling widow-makers, and putting in new lines. If anybody has any questions or knows who to contact about this, pleas... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Backdrop (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Very straightforward jamming, feels quite soft with any crack technique


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Chinese Fiddle (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: An offset nut placed at the extent of my reach protected the crux overhead. Otherwise, the only pro is a tiny, shitty horizontal way off to the left. Serious ledge-fall potential if it blows.

Top section of this climb is extraordinary!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Rated G (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I found the bottom half to be super-simple low 5th-class climbing in a sea of bolted cracks.

Get into the dark, slimy finger slot below the roof. Do not go left, but instead straight up. Just at the turn of the overhang, there is a protruding pinch that makes for a wild long move, or some seriously heinous crimping. Once into the sharp rock above, the difficulty lets up only slightly as you gain the face.

Extremely short, technical 5.11 (more like LD 5.12+).


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : In And Out Of The Groove (5.11+)
By: Nate Ball When: 6 days ago

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Comments: There are MANY ways to do this climb, and the grade should be considered with this in mind...

Low crux
At the first crux, you can easily stem onto the wall behind you. If done without it, it's 11ish.

Low-mid crux
Just above the huge flake, you can continue traversing out right and pull jugs back left. You can also pull on a pebble and up to a large chunk. This is more direct, though adds a little more difficulty to the red-point. Maybe 10ish.

Mid crux
Where Above the ... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : unknown unknowns (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: This is incredibly exciting news to hear, Greg! Who did you climb this route with?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Shield. Too late to change it now!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Pleasure Palace : Matthew 7:24 (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: This route is a bomb. Huge holds last for three moves through an overhang. Romp up a loose, 4th-class arete to the top, where anchors bolted to the level rock at the top do not have chains and cannot facilitate lowering or rappelling. My partner (a girl) and I both agreed that this route goes at 5.9 at most... if you are desperate enough to do it.


Location: OR : Rooster Rock : Classic Route (5.4)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: USING A SINGLE 60M ROPE:
Rappel off the summit via long chain (weird setup, huh?) to shiny new ClimbX bolt anchors. Rappel again down the bolted approach pitch. No problem.

The view is incredible up here. Although the climbing is super easy, and the setting far from pristine, you get clear views of some of the Gorge's most iconic features. Vista Point, Beacon Rock, Multnomah Falls... every local traditionalist should sit atop the Cock at some point.

Not sure about the legality of it, but it wo... more >>


Location: OR : Rooster Rock : Unknown [Just Shy Of The Ti... (5.6)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: This route adds a healthy pitch of climbing to this otherwise all-too-brief route. Rock quality is often suspect, edges and ledges are dirty, and the bolts are some budget bullshit, but it still makes for a worthwhile approach to the upper pitch. The scramble is super easy, so if you're not in a hurry, take this line.

Route can be rapped with a 60m rope.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure I understand your comment Bill. The problem in this picture is that garbage is being burned. Outside of this picture, you have the problem of a relatively poor isolated community trying to economically discard its garbage while hundreds of thousands of waste-producing tourists flock here and complain about the water making them sick. Does this clear up the "cause of the problem" question?


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Kung Fu (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: This is the best sport route under 5.10 at Ozone, in my opinion.


Location: OR : Rocky Butte
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: I really have to agree with Bryan on this. My gripe isn't about the trash, it's not about the noise, but about the dirtiness and lack of accessibility.

Most routes must be rapped down to. Not a big deal, as long as there are accessible trees or anchors to rap from, which there often aren't.

Most popular cliffs don't have easy walks to the top. You rap in, you climb out, or you do that gnarly 4th-class scramble.

Most routes have a layer of dirt/cobwebs/glass on them. Many routes are polished a... more >>


Location: OR : Rocky Butte : Breakfast Cracks
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Four great climbs in this little self-contained venue. Unfortunately only one of them has any top anchor, making accessibility an issue.

Blackberry Jam can be lead and then belayed from the top, either on the precarious top-out ledge, or at a fir tree 30 feet back.

Espresso can be rapped and top-roped from the chain around the tree. The tree doesn't look great, and the chain setup isn't exactly UIAA standard, but it's all you have in this area.

White Rabbit tops out... more >>


Location: OR : Rocky Butte : Breakfast Cracks : Espresso (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: Didn't use any #3's, but did use 2 #2's and 2 #1's. The last move to the ledge is definitely harder than 5.9.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: There are currently two large fires burning in the area. One is the Chiwaukum Complex to the north on Highway 2. The other is the Carlton Complex, to the northeast towards Lake Chelan. Trails to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness are closed. Leavenworth has a "moderate" air pollution warning.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Main Attraction (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: From the slabby ledge belay above pitch 2, instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch to the left, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for Freakshow. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Freakshow (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: To approach this route, climb Main Attraction to the slab belay above pitch 2. Instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for this route. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway. The belay ledge is quite comfortable, and I have been told the route is quite fun as well.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Galen's Crack : Galen's Crack (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: Small fists make this an absolute thrutch-fest.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Diemos Cliff : Phobos (5.9+)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: New C4 #5 is quite nice for both the P1 belay and the off-width on P3. Don't underestimate the walk-off.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Face The Wall (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Where is this route?


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (2) Clocktower : Diagonal (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: This route is totally incredible. It takes you through all of the coolest features on the Clocktower, and some of the most consistent jamming at the Dong. Easy scrambling to the leftward traverse, some seriously overhanging tufa-like sickness, to a rest where it crosses Wedding Day, into the crux jam long throw to the flake step around. Gotta go back and red-point this beast.

In just 40ish feet this thing packs a punch!

Oh yeah, and double up on gear from 1/2" to 3/4".


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Sorry Valentine (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Danger, do you think the first three bolts down low are an actual line?

In my mind, the buttress has only one line which follows the weakness straight up the middle. The first three bolts on the left line force you to do some (subjectively) stupid climbing, and the last bolt on the right line is on an impossibly blank face. Thus my entry for Sorry Valentine.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Security Blanket (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all?


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