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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Total Points: 6,743
Last Year: 1,499
Last 30 Days: 28
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1979 | Routes 286 | Areas 65 | Photos 538 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 212 | Posts 78 | Stars 541 | Ratings 257
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (6) Pharos Group : Pharos Gully : Milk Blood (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This route is actually in Yesterday Gully.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Overhang Wall 4 (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Bolt added to last lead bolt. Use this for top-roping or rappel instead of topping out.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Overhang Wall 3 (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: The route now has a bolt in the roof to protect the crux moves, as well as a dedicated anchor before the top that you can use for top-rope and rappel.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : First Wall 3 (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Now has two anchor bolts and a better-placed 2nd bolt.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : First Wall 1 (5.9-)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Route has been cleaned (5/16).


Location: Asia : Thailand : Namphapayai Camp Saraburi
By: Nate Ball When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Can you elaborate any more? If this place is in the business of screwing people over, that is indeed something that should be made known in a more constructive way. Message me personally if you get a chance.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Namphapayai Camp Saraburi
By: Nate Ball When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Hey Andrew, do you know what's going on? I can move the content into your name to prevent this kind of crap from happening again.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Gully Route (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Checked it out recently and it didn't need a brush... but the start is still hard azz.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Starbuck (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can easily be linked with Moby Dick for one of the longest and most exposed routes at Long Dong. Fantastic though brief climbing up a wild feature to a comfortable top-out belay.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Wonderland (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Done.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Wall Area
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: The route Wonderland, which is the last pitch of the Smoke Bluff Connection, used to have two separate entries. They have been combined and the later entry deleted; all comments, ticks, stars, ratings, and pictures were moved to the original entry. It was then moved from the Wall area to Pixie Corner, where it belongs.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I gave it a 5.7, but I didn't lead it either. I started climbing at Smith Rock and spent a lot of time learning trad in Colorado. Arapiles has the same old-school grading, but a lot of the classic moderates are just straight sandbagged.

Tiptoe Ridge is 5.0?
The traverse on the Bard is 5.5?
The second pitch of Lamplighter is 5.7?

So, out of respect for that style of grading, sure, Pedro is a 5.7. But for the most part, do the grades accurately translate? Not so much.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (4) Bluffs
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The rappel from atop Ali's (grade 6, chain-pulling) is listed as 45m in the guidebook. It is in fact just over 30m, and can be safely done with a single 60m rope.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Some beta from a week-long April stay in the Pines...

Camping reservations can be made online HERE. The Pines campground can get really noisy, even on weekday nights. Some dude was playing "Girls Just Wanna Have Fun" in a minor key at 10pm while the crowd drunkenly yammered on and on. But they were all chill cats in daylight. The Lower Gums might be a better spot for peace and quiet, as the Upper was pretty ... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: D-Minor is the leftmost pinnacle. D-Major is the one just right of Piccolo, with the freestanding boulder in the middle.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (7) Watchtower Faces : The Pinnacle Face : Tiptoe Ridge (5.3)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: There are a million variations to this climb. On the first pitch, I went left for a little more exposure and some possible 5.7-8 climbing. Then you can go up and over the pinnacle, or left around it. From there, it's just an obvious scramble up amazing jugs in an incredible setting. There is no reason to make this more than a pitch-and-a-half.

First belay below the pinnacle, second at the "scoop" in the middle of the upper face, third at the top. Add half a pitch between one and two for the pin... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : D-Minor (5.7+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: I didn't find it tricky or hard to protect. However, when you pull the first upper overhang, it is very easy to kick out your gear, and since it's nothing but slab below (which you probably didn't bother to protect), it could be a long drop.

A cam at the first overhang would solve this problem.

Easily done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

Rappel is off the backside.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: This route is not PG13 in the slightest, though definitely harder than 5.5... let's just say grade conversion isn't an exact science.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (1) Southern Crags : The Atridae : Muldoon (5.7 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Not PG13. A small nut protects the crux, and there is a piton below it.

Two pitches easily combined.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (1) Southern Crags : The Atridae : Agamemnon (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: It was getting dark. Got to the ledge on the right side wall in one pitch and tried to step over from there, but didn't want to tear my groin. Instead of continuing up the crack and stepping over higher, I just down-climbed from there, since my belayer didn't want to follow it.

Absurdly difficult for 5.5? Maybe. But the protection is all there when you need it. As with most routes at Arapiles, the pitches are easily combined.

My advice: near the top, do not aim for the chimney/slab ex... more >>


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Tao : Mek's Mountain : Clear Horizons (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: theuiaa.org/news-316-New-Downl...


Location: Asia : Thailand : Koh Tao : Mek's Mountain : Clear Horizons (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: Those look like expansion bolts. Any reason for using these instead of the titanium bolts sold by Martin Roberts?


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Kaohsiung : Shoushan Nature Park
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: Kaohsiung Climbing facebook group:
facebook.com/groups/5547124179...

James is your man.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: As of Feb. 13th, 2016, the stone staircase that led down to this area was intentionally destroyed. We assume this was done by the NE Coast Scenic Area folks to prevent access to the fishing below. This was done without any forewarning and no note was left. That's how things are done around here.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ...
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Saithong Resort, top of the hill.


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