Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Nate Ball

Nate Ball
is a member of
Point Rank: # 70
Total Points: 5,245
Last Year: 1,322
Last 30 Days: 7
67 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Nate Ball been climbing?










Contributions


All 1585 | Routes 246 | Areas 45 | Photos 389 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 159 | Posts 63 | Stars 458 | Ratings 223
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Family (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : White Handsome Devil (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: On second go, definitely not 5.9+... except maybe by Valley standards.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : ... : Green Slab (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Rebolted with titanium. There is another route to the left of this, 5.10ish, that is also a lot of fun and also with titanium bolts.


Location: International : Asia : China : Hong Kong : Tung Lung Chau : Sea Gully
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A few routes here have been rebolted with titanium, a few more have steel glue-ins with questionable glue, but the vast majority (most of those on the Terrace) have old expansion bolts that shouldn't be trusted.

There are several other routes not listed in Climb China that are off the main deck. However, HK tour groups like to use this area for rappelling and zip-lining, and so isn't an ideal choice on sunny weekends.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Dragonslayer (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Come check out the climbing at the Dragon Cave!


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A little beta from a brief trip here...

We stayed at the Batu Caves Budget Hotel. It was 75MYR/night for a four-person room that had air conditioning and warm showers, or 65 for a two-person. There is a really good restaurant next door serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as a 7-11 and water refill station within a two-minute walk. It's a 30-40 minute walk to any of the walls. Vertical Adventures, as well as other restaurants, grocery stores, and the Avatar Hotel (perhaps a better opti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Some beta after a brief stay here...

Getting to Mukut on Tioman is relatively straightforward, although it involves a lot of transfers. It would be advisable to make reservations ahead of time to make sure things go smoothly. Once you arrive at the airport, get to TBS station. From here, take a Transnacional bus to Mersing. The earliest is 9am, which puts you in Mersing around 3pm. The ferry, run by Blue Waters Express, usually runs once a day between 3-5pm, so you might have to hustle to the j... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Anybody who has been to Tonsai - or any crag in a part of the world that is flooded by foreign money - understands the "context."


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The rock on the first 30 feet of the first pitch is a death trap. The bolting on the entire route was obviously done on rappel by someone with no eye for a line or for safety in general. The bolts are likely dangerous beyond any semblance of reliability. It cannot be safely protected with trad gear.

That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Yes it has.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : French's Dome : Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Str... (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Finally climbed this route again. Much tougher than I expected, though the moves flow once you figure it out. Thanks Micah for the rebolting work! As you know, this route and others still have questionable bolts, and some business moves are made well above them. Move quickly to avoid the pump! Clipping the 5th & 6th bolts can be cruxy.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Toa
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I have deleted the route "Axe Attack" (poor description anyway) so that you can add areas. Please provide good descriptions (directions, rock type, types of climbs, sun/shade, etc.) for these areas, then add whatever routes you'd like. It's all yours!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Fucking Fall (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Tips City (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun finger crack for the first section. The rest of the route is ledgy scrambling to a single awkward bulge and contrived extension across dodgy flakes. A little hyperbole perhaps. The finger crack is fun, the rest is not so much.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Free Bird (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I feel the natural line goes out the mini-roof and joins Toe Cleavage. As it is, you step right to easy, dirty ledges. This would be a 3-star route if finished directly (minor run-out).


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Sandy's Direct (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Dangerous bolts.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Loose Block Overhang (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is best done as a single pitch to the top. If doing this, bring doubles from 1-3", a 4" piece, and some slings. The business on the offwidth down low is fun, and the crux in the middle is all of 5.9+. One last move around the final bulge gets the blood flowing before you top out. Belay off a tree or something.

Anchor bolts on this route are rather manky. Do not suggest climbing the bolted junk on the right side.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : French's Dome : China Man (5.11b) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Highly recommend taking your photos at a proper angle - use the trees as reference. Currently looks like climbing an easy slab, which it obviously isn't.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: You're going the wrong way!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - West S... : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Top-roping in tights. Hawt.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tell me more about this photo? It doesn't make a lot of sense as the cover for "North Eastern Oregon."


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: All worthless comments deleted. In the future, please isolate such banality where it belongs... in the forums.

Spring Mountain, Wallowa Mountains, and Fiddler's Hell look great.

Please add GPS locations for High Valley, Anthony Lakes, and others. Also, routes in Matterhorn. Is Elgin Wall on private property?

This classification of routes into zone - such as "Northeastern Oregon" - is actually a great idea. I may do the same with the entirety of the Oregon database.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Lawl? Moved to Chain Reaction, which this obviously is.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall : Trezlar (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We approached via the first six bolts of Planet Luxury. 5.9ish climbing to a super-easy rightward traverse. Use runners. We also saw the previous pair climb Cosmos, belay second who continued up to the nook, then belayed again. Anchor here takes .5 and .75 down low, totally solid.

"The flake" is actually a 5'x5' guillotine-shaped patina-flake that sounds completely hollow. It has felt a lot of greasy climber fingers over the years, and with just a little TLC will feel many more. Use nuts to pro... more >>


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!