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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Total Points: 6,883
Last Year: 1,414
Last 30 Days: 43
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2020 | Routes 296 | Areas 65 | Photos 545 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 217 | Posts 78 | Stars 559 | Ratings 258
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (9) Above the Waves : Wet and Hairy (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I'm pretty sure you guys climbed "Ocean's Eleven", as per the picture I moved to that route. Wet & Hairy looks thoroughly unappealing - easy climbing up a chimney to a ledge, then across a slab to a brief squeeze. For the grade, it can't possibly be as good as its neighbor to the left.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (9) Above the Waves : Ocean's Eleven (5.11) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Originally tagged as "Wet & Hairy". This is, in fact, the top of the first pitch of Ocean's Eleven.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : Lava Tube (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did not find this climb to be loose at all. Great line, though probably not 10d if you follow the obvious line of least resistant. The bolts were obviously placed on rappel, and though most are fine, the clips through the crux are definitely the hardest part of redpointing this route.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Wedding Route (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: The 5th, 6th, and 9th lead bolts failed during pull-testing due to SCC. They have been removed. The route is currently unsafe to climb as a sport route.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Mural Wall (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: For me, the only 5.10 move felt like the one getting off the mid-way ledge. This is protected by very thin gear that is hard to place. I ended up just "cheating" left to place it, then down-climbing to do the move. From there, the route wanders right along horizontals with cool pocket jugs. Once you snag the left-trending weakness, it's an easy ramble to the alcove below the head. Build a gear belay or continue left. This route is extremely diffi... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Silly Hippie Handrilling is... (5.7)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Is this really a route? Or is it another name for an already existing route?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Cider Crack (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Route grade changed to 10a


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (6) Pharos Group : Pharos Gully : Milk Blood (5.11b)
By: Nate Ball When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: This route is actually in Yesterday Gully.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Overhang Wall 4 (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Bolt added to last lead bolt. Use this for top-roping or rappel instead of topping out.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Overhang Wall 3 (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: The route now has a bolt in the roof to protect the crux moves, as well as a dedicated anchor before the top that you can use for top-rope and rappel.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : First Wall 3 (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Now has two anchor bolts and a better-placed 2nd bolt.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : First Wall 1 (5.9-)
By: Nate Ball When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Route has been cleaned (5/16).


Location: Asia : Thailand : Namphapayai Camp Saraburi
By: Nate Ball When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Can you elaborate any more? If this place is in the business of screwing people over, that is indeed something that should be made known in a more constructive way. Message me personally if you get a chance.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Namphapayai Camp Saraburi
By: Nate Ball When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Hey Andrew, do you know what's going on? I can move the content into your name to prevent this kind of crap from happening again.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Taipei : Rehai : Gully Route (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Checked it out recently and it didn't need a brush... but the start is still hard azz.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Starbuck (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: Can easily be linked with Moby Dick for one of the longest and most exposed routes at Long Dong. Fantastic though brief climbing up a wild feature to a comfortable top-out belay.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Wonderland (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: Done.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : Wall Area
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: The route Wonderland, which is the last pitch of the Smoke Bluff Connection, used to have two separate entries. They have been combined and the later entry deleted; all comments, ticks, stars, ratings, and pictures were moved to the original entry. It was then moved from the Wall area to Pixie Corner, where it belongs.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I gave it a 5.7, but I didn't lead it either. I started climbing at Smith Rock and spent a lot of time learning trad in Colorado. Arapiles has the same old-school grading, but a lot of the classic moderates are just straight sandbagged.

Tiptoe Ridge is 5.0?
The traverse on the Bard is 5.5?
The second pitch of Lamplighter is 5.7?

So, out of respect for that style of grading, sure, Pedro is a 5.7. But for the most part, do the grades accurately translate? Not so much.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (4) Bluffs
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The rappel from atop Ali's (grade 6, chain-pulling) is listed as 45m in the guidebook. It is in fact just over 30m, and can be safely done with a single 60m rope.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Some beta from a week-long April stay in the Pines...

Camping reservations can be made online HERE. The Pines campground can get really noisy, even on weekday nights. Some dude was playing "Girls Just Wanna Have Fun" in a minor key at 10pm while the crowd drunkenly yammered on and on. But they were all chill cats in daylight. The Lower Gums might be a better spot for peace and quiet, as the Upper was pretty ... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: D-Minor is the leftmost pinnacle. D-Major is the one just right of Piccolo, with the freestanding boulder in the middle.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (7) Watchtower Faces : The Pinnacle Face : Tiptoe Ridge (5.3)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: There are a million variations to this climb. On the first pitch, I went left for a little more exposure and some possible 5.7-8 climbing. Then you can go up and over the pinnacle, or left around it. From there, it's just an obvious scramble up amazing jugs in an incredible setting. There is no reason to make this more than a pitch-and-a-half.

First belay below the pinnacle, second at the "scoop" in the middle of the upper face, third at the top. Add half a pitch between one and two for the pin... more >>


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : The Organ Pipes : D-Minor (5.7+)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: I didn't find it tricky or hard to protect. However, when you pull the first upper overhang, it is very easy to kick out your gear, and since it's nothing but slab below (which you probably didn't bother to protect), it could be a long drop.

A cam at the first overhang would solve this problem.

Easily done as a single pitch with a 60m rope.

Rappel is off the backside.


Location: Australia : Mount Arapiles : (2) Central Left : Central Gully Left : Pedro (5.5 PG13)
By: Nate Ball When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: This route is not PG13 in the slightest, though definitely harder than 5.5... let's just say grade conversion isn't an exact science.


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