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Rock Climbing Photo: Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Nate Ball
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2160 | Routes 315 | Areas 72 | Photos 575 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 244 | Posts 80 | Stars 600 | Ratings 272
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : {10} Backdoor : High Class Quickdraw (5.10+)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The first few bolts are in terrible positions. Ignore the line it seems to indicate and stay left in the crack/weakness... bad pendulum fall potential.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Getting to Know You (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Judging from the MP descriptions of the three routes on this ledge, the one you are describing is more likely to be Taming the East


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Rebolted in 2016 with titanium U-bolts


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Red Dates Mochi (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Sandbag at the original grade (10a/b). Try to avoid the flake just before the rightward traverse. It's not necessary and sounds completely hollow.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Three Right Feet (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Start up the chimney then try to stay on the face as much as possible. Gear placements can be quite tricky - just don't try to force yourself too far left.


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : Obvious Weakness (5.10-)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: We saw a couple of ancient bolt stumps about 1/3 of the way up this route. Interesting, as there is no documentation of any established climbing here previous to 2015...


Location: Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (5) Grand Auditorium : unknown unknowns (5.11)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Be mindful on rappel, as a 60m rope just barely makes it to the ground.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : New Delhi Cliff
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Please either provide more detail or refrain from posting this area until you can provide such detail.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: As of 09/2016, there is no "park" to speak of, and the entrance fee to Moon Hill is 14RMB (~$2). So we were told. We "snuck in" by driving just past the entrance to the first road on the right after the entrance, parking our scooter on the side of the road, hopping the low brick/concrete fence and following the obvious dirt path on the other side. It currently passes through some minor construction, but none of the workers paid us any m... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: My wife and I just returned from a 10-day stay in Yangshuo. It is still an incredible place to climb, but things are changing quickly, and thus there is a lot you should know that isn't mentioned in the write-up or in any of the comments...

The bolt situation
Many of the bolts are nearing 20 years of life. Many of them are stainless steel, and thus perfectly safe, but many of them are not. It is nigh-impossible for a lay-person to know the difference, but I definitely... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Egg : ... : Poser's Lonely Reunion (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: I was unable to pull the move out of the cave and up to the first horizontal on the headwall statically. This was the crux for me. The rest of the route felt easy, though pumpy, with long reaches to big holds. Maybe slightly soft for the grade?


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Egg : ... : Wonderful World (5.10c/d)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Very easy to get suckered right by the big ruse holds at 2nd/3rd bolt. I went for them but then found myself having to do a much more difficult step back left, fell, then realized the sequence didn't go that way at all. Otherwise really fun, straightforward laybacking up the crack.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Egg : ... : Consolation Prize (5.10a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: I thought the second half above the ledge was the crux. Fun finger jamming!


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Egg : ... : Handsaw Returns (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: A little dirty as of 9/2016


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Egg : ... : Pulling Perfection (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Soft for the grade.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : The Thumb : Happy New Year (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: I would describe the pitches thusly...
P1: Wandery, with a tricky crux out of the cavey section (5.9)
P2: Up to the roof and left, try not to pull on detached block (5.8)
P3: Move right to the spiky rock and straight up, short pitch (5.7)
P4: Long and wandery, with some cool moves broken up by ledges (5.9)
P5: The business. Crack climbing with face holds. Too short! (5.10a)

Saw a bolt above the P5 anchor, though didn't venture up so couldn't speak to what... more >>


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Wine Bottle : Summit No. 1 (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Easy for the grade but perhaps pumpy? A bit of a run-out through the middle on monster jugs.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Swiss Cheese
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: This area comes into the sun early and goes into the shade late. Although the belay area is nicely shaded by the bamboo, the sun beats down on the routes themselves.

This area has also replaced the Wine Bottle as the go-to area for noobs and guided groups. No matter the temps or time of day, there were never fewer than four lines up at the right side.

The grades also tend to be significantly softer than other areas.

It costs 1 RMB per bike to park in the parking lot.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Wine Bottle : Watered Whine (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Confirm very awkward anchor position.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Wine Bottle : Happy Ending (5.11a/b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Total sandbag at 10d. Last move is ridiculous.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Wine Bottle : Carbonic Acid Trip (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: This route epitomizes the fun of limestone climbing! Spicy but safe distance above the bolt at the crux. Good holds on the face make it realistic at the grade.


Location: Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Swiss Cheese : Captain Kirk Eats Bruchetta (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Very soft, no distinct crux, didn't actually feel any harder than the 10a to the left, which is also somewhat soft. Pumpy maybe? It is rather long...


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Stop.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : Escher World : Soley Action 1 (5.10b/c)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: Titanium bolts?


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : Escher World : The Playground (5.8-)
By: Nate Ball When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: Titanium bolts?


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