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Some route at Smith Rock


Member Since: Aug 15, 2010
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 1554 | Routes 241 | Areas 43 | Photos 388 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 155 | Posts 63 | Stars 444 | Ratings 218
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (3) Long Lane : Dragonslayer (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: 5 days ago

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Comments: There is a slightly harder start just above the monobridge. This climbs a thin juggy flake that joins with the route about 25 feet up. It is definitely a more enjoyable start. The book describes this as 10c, but it is 10a at most, though protection is a little tricky down low.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: Come check out the climbing at the Dragon Cave!


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Batu Caves
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: A little beta from a brief trip here...

We stayed at the Batu Caves Budget Hotel. It was 75MYR/night for a four-person room that had air conditioning and warm showers, or 65 for a two-person. There is a really good restaurant next door serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as a 7-11 and water refill station within a two-minute walk. It's a 30-40 minute walk to any of the walls. Vertical Adventures, as well as other restaurants, grocery stores, and the Avatar Hotel (perhaps a better opti... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Some beta after a brief stay here...

Getting to Mukut on Tioman is relatively straightforward, although it involves a lot of transfers. It would be advisable to make reservations ahead of time to make sure things go smoothly. Once you arrive at the airport, get to TBS station. From here, take a Transnacional bus to Mersing. The earliest is 9am, which puts you in Mersing around 3pm. The ferry, run by Blue Waters Express, usually runs once a day between 3-5pm, so you might have to hustle to the j... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Anybody who has been to Tonsai - or any crag in a part of the world that is flooded by foreign money - understands the "context."


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (6) First Cave : Agar Jelly (5.10a/b R)
By: Nate Ball When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: The rock on the first 30 feet of the first pitch is a death trap. The bolting on the entire route was obviously done on rappel by someone with no eye for a line or for safety in general. The bolts are likely dangerous beyond any semblance of reliability. It cannot be safely protected with trad gear.

That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Heart of Darkness (5.11c)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: Yes it has.


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Str... (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: Finally climbed this route again. Much tougher than I expected, though the moves flow once you figure it out. Thanks Micah for the rebolting work! As you know, this route and others still have questionable bolts, and some business moves are made well above them. Move quickly to avoid the pump! Clipping the 5th & 6th bolts can be cruxy.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Toa
By: Nate Ball When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: I have deleted the route "Axe Attack" (poor description anyway) so that you can add areas. Please provide good descriptions (directions, rock type, types of climbs, sun/shade, etc.) for these areas, then add whatever routes you'd like. It's all yours!


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (4) Music Hall : Fucking Fall (5.10d)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Okay so the route is published in the most recent book as "Fucking Fall." This is the name that everybody uses, including a majority of Taiwanese. Apparently Milk claims the FFA, and would prefer it to be called "79 Finals" - not "97 Finals" which makes no sense as it would have to refer to the Christian calendar, which is not what Anmin mentioned above.

For the sake of clarity, can we just list the route here as "Fucking Fall"?


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Tips City (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun finger crack for the first section. The rest of the route is ledgy scrambling to a single awkward bulge and contrived extension across dodgy flakes. A little hyperbole perhaps. The finger crack is fun, the rest is not so much.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Free Bird (5.11-)
By: Nate Ball When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: I feel the natural line goes out the mini-roof and joins Toe Cleavage. As it is, you step right to easy, dirty ledges. This would be a 3-star route if finished directly (minor run-out).


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Sandy's Direct (5.10c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: Dangerous bolts.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Loose Block Overhang (5.9)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: This route is best done as a single pitch to the top. If doing this, bring doubles from 1-3", a 4" piece, and some slings. The business on the offwidth down low is fun, and the crux in the middle is all of 5.9+. One last move around the final bulge gets the blood flowing before you top out. Belay off a tree or something.

Anchor bolts on this route are rather manky. Do not suggest climbing the bolted junk on the right side.


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : China Man (5.11b) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Highly recommend taking your photos at a proper angle - use the trees as reference. Currently looks like climbing an easy slab, which it obviously isn't.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilks Main : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: You're going the wrong way!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - West S... : ... : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Top-roping in tights. Hawt.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Tell me more about this photo? It doesn't make a lot of sense as the cover for "North Eastern Oregon."


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: All worthless comments deleted. In the future, please isolate such banality where it belongs... in the forums.

Spring Mountain, Wallowa Mountains, and Fiddler's Hell look great.

Please add GPS locations for High Valley, Anthony Lakes, and others. Also, routes in Matterhorn. Is Elgin Wall on private property?

This classification of routes into zone - such as "Northeastern Oregon" - is actually a great idea. I may do the same with the entirety of the Oregon database.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Lawl? Moved to Chain Reaction, which this obviously is.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall : Trezlar (5.10a)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: We approached via the first six bolts of Planet Luxury. 5.9ish climbing to a super-easy rightward traverse. Use runners. We also saw the previous pair climb Cosmos, belay second who continued up to the nook, then belayed again. Anchor here takes .5 and .75 down low, totally solid.

"The flake" is actually a 5'x5' guillotine-shaped patina-flake that sounds completely hollow. It has felt a lot of greasy climber fingers over the years, and with just a little TLC will feel many more. Use nuts to pro... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: You should be able to protect above your head at the start of the vertical section. My condolences to the injured, but there is no reason to fall to the ledge 15+ feet below with an attentive belay and intelligent gear placement.

For me, the route was a one-move wonder. A solid jam leads to endless foot options. And then it's over.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Animal Farm (5.10b/c)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Fair bit of scary looseness on this thing. I could only recommend it if you have to climb a 5.10 and Bay of Pigs, Let's Face It, Dancing For Clams, and Phantasmagoria are all taken. Super-awkward bouldery move to romping to a single slabby move up high. Don't fall before you make the first clip, or you'll die.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Lets Face It (5.10b)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps a bolt has been added at the beginning, but the only bad fall now would be clipping the 2nd bolt, which is made from a good stance on good holds.


Location: International : Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (1) School Gate : Piranha (5.10)
By: Nate Ball When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: For the record, the bottom half of this route was bolted before 1998, so although it could be a "retro" job, it was still done before Deng Rong's crusade mid-2000's.


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