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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - South : Hex Marks The Poot (5.8)
By: namascar When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very pure line in my opinion. Good hands to fist before the horizontal crack. The rest is a low angle offwidth that protects easyly with a single #5 Cam. Rappel slings at the top, or build an anchor with #2 and #1 Cam.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: namascar When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting formation
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Cranny (5.8)
By: namascar When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: namascar When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb for hot days. It is away from the sun all day.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Jack of Hearts (5.9)
By: namascar When: Apr 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The intial crack is real good. A book example of vertical hands to fist cracks, on a corner. The rest of the climb is not so nice. I give it two stars just for the initial crack. It feels steep for a 5.9.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Mar 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great crack climb of all the "good" sizes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Hound Rock : An Eye To The West (5.9)
By: namascar When: Mar 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, a blue#3 and a yellow#2 cam makes a good belay at the top.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Baskerville Rock : Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Mar 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Nice approach to refresh you if you have a light hangover.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Baskerville Rock : Left Baskerville Crack (5.10b)
By: namascar When: Mar 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you are done with the initial part, the off width is super fun. I used 2 #4 Cam's and feel like in top rope all the time (in the off width). But that initial 15''(of the route) are scary. I put a red alien in the horizontal crack in the left (after the initial 15''), and felt really good after that.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : Trashcan Rock : Profundity (5.10c R)
By: namascar When: Mar 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the first bolt feels like 10b, but after the second feels a bit harder, 10c is fair.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Jessica's Crack (5.6)
By: namascar When: Jan 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite the rate, it is not a climb for beginners. The top can be awkward for them. But the protection is super bomber everywhere.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Diamond Dogs (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Jan 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can believe that people are not stoke with this one. It is so much fun, and a very interesting feature. The undercling it classic, the transition to the slab excellent, and the run outs are so much Joshua Treeish. Great fun route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Perpetual Motion (5.10d)
By: namascar When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steep, thin hands. UFF!! However, if you have problems in the thin hands section (like me), there is a side pull and an edge on the left of the crack.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Thumbs Down Left (5.9)
By: namascar When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I have an issue with Josh's 5.9. They are stout!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Light Sabre (5.10b)
By: namascar When: Nov 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, that corner is awesome. It can be jammed, or chimney-ed. Both are equally fun. Exiting the corner is tricky. Then the boulder move up is the crux, I though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - West Face : Illusion Dweller (5.10b)
By: namascar When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, very popular. We found some trash at the bottom of the route...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Fisticuffs (5.10b)
By: namascar When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, one of the purest cracks in Josh. One has to pay attention with the #4 Camalots. It is easy to place them, walk them and it may lead to multi hour recovery operations. I saw a #4 jammed once and tried to remove it, without luck. Then this weekend, it happened to us. This time, we put more time and effort till we got the dawn piece out. Don't let this embarrassing situation happened to you.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : Touch and Go (5.9)
By: namascar When: Feb 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Opposition helps a lot in the beginning of the climb. #3 and #4 Camalot can be useful for the anchor, together with a very long piece of tubular tape.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Tumbling Rainbow Formation : Run For Your Life (5.10b R)
By: namascar When: Feb 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: First two bolts are a stretch. Consider building a belay station at the begining of the climb, as if the leader falls, it may take both climbers down to the next level.You can put a small nut in a rock outcrop, more of a mental protection than real protection. The crux is well protected by the last bolt.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route with a bit of everything. Face climbing, opposition, finger and hand jams. Tried the heal over heads move, I don't know if I want to do that on lead...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long, well protected and pure slab moves.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - South : Solid Gold (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: That bolt after the mantle move is a bit of a stretch. Surely makes the move exciting. I peeled off my feet in the mantle but managed to still hold with the left hand. Close. Great route if you are into crimps.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb for cold days.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Exorcist (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Exorcists demands a varied range of climbing techniques. Finger and off finger locks, laybacks, edging and crimping and outstanding mantel move. There is a rock outcrop below the mantle move that sounds awfully funny, you may want to instruct your belayer not be in its fall line.A boulderly move is required to reach the bottom of the climb proper. Having the rock shoes on there may help. A sixty meter rope allows you to rappel to ground, but it is easy to get the rope stuck.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Garden Angel (5.10a)
By: namascar When: Feb 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, with a very conveniently placed first bolt. It is clipped from the side so that the crux move is well protected. There is super fun high step move shortly after.Great route for could winter days where anything else can be chili.
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