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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Rubicon Formation : Rubicon (5.10c)
By: Murf When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gregory, can you tell me what the first and second pieces actually are? Will Metolius cams work? Also, what sizes are your finger size nuts? Do you use Wild Country or Black Diamond?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : ... : Photo
By: Murf When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line is Foot Massage .
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Wheel of Fortune (5.11b) : Photo
By: Murf When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now you tell me!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Foundry, The : Son Volt Arete (5.12-)
By: Murf When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its true, bouldering isn't my thing. Any the credit for any effort has to go to Todd (as he mentions) and Tony, I'm basically a subman on this one. The question is what did you think of the route?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Foundry, The : Son Volt Arete (5.12-) : Photo
By: Murf When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't take credit, a friend of Tony's took the picture. I can't recall his name, have to find out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress
By: Murf When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?
Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Death in the Afternoon (5.11b)
By: Murf When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux right off the deck (20' up on a boulder), with protection that is hard to gauge.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : King Dome : Tiptoe To Topanga (5.10a)
By: Murf When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found myself tending to the left of the bolts on occasion. Maybe I'm not tuned up on JT friction, but I thought this was more like 10b/c (much like Chris).
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : ... : Photo
By: Murf When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks to me to be a photo of Book of Changes. CIBS is directly behind the climber.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Blank (5.10a)
By: Murf When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Left side is standard for The Blank, center is Jonah.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Pizzazz (5.10- PG13)
By: Murf When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook is once again wrong, John has good beta in his description.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Patricia Bowl : ... : Pie in the Sky (5.11b)
By: Murf When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start described above is probably the most logical.
Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The guide includes both pitches in the description of this route (referring to the original description remarks regarding the first pitch).
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Flying Warlocks (5.10-)
By: Murf When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Monsteroffwidth.com has beta that this route is two pitches. I don't know if I climbed those in 1 pitch, or if the second pitch is off the high ledge.
The second anchor seems a mystery, as a 60m rope reaches the ground. However, as we pulled the rope, it got hung up irretrievably on a deep flake just under this low anchor. We had to 4th class it up and over to that anchor, free the rope, and then rap the 20'.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Dragon's Back (5.10d PG13)
By: Murf When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the best start was to the right of the arete, belaying high off of gear. Spicy and very committing, but with rests. A great route if you are looking for one more pitch at the end of a hot day (goes into the shade late).
With a 60m rope you get to a lowish angle "butt wedge" descent about 20' off the ground. Alternately you could rap to a tree and with wrap your rope around the tree or add some tat.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : The Great Gazoo (5.12-)
By: Murf When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grade is tentative,due to the fact that I don't know if it has seen a second ascent.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Twinkletoes (5.11+)
By: Murf When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An variation has been done that starts on The Great Gazoo and then finishes on Twinkletoes, crossing in the area where they touch.
The grade is tentative, as there has been no second ascent that I'm aware of.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Voodoo Child (5.11b)
By: Murf When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The '93 guide had identical rating/bolt count as the 2001 guidebook.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sideshow Slab : Showstopper (5.10a PG13)
By: Murf When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit hard for .10a right at the transition between 2 and 3 near the diagonal crack feature. The line felt slightly forced at around bolt 5 or 6 ( easier climbing to the left). That being said, a sustained, fun line that has engaging climbing for almost its whole length. Kudos to Chris et. el. for a worthy addition to this slab.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : Crack Kingdom (5.10c)
By: Murf When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is my favorite of the routes I've done on Cardinal. The pitch3 finger crack is truly stellar.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Murf When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris - Was there something valuable actually visible (cellphone, ipod, etc), or was it a duffel that got rifled through?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : West Tiers : Henrietta's Day Spa (5.11)
By: Murf When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob - For Josh, I'd say 3 of five *'s. The route isn't your normal slab humping and it's pretty clean. Length is an issue, but at Josh what isn't. It's better than Lee's (2 * consensus on MP) and at least as good as The Popsicle (and more consistent climbing, 3 of 5 *'s). In any case, give it what you think and eventually consensus will be reached.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Side : ... : Photo
By: Murf When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big Mo is frequently soloed. That doesn't make it a tall boulder problem.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Wart : Symbolic Of Life (5.11a)
By: Murf When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is right off the ground. Exit is the prototypical "Josh Top Out"
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Conan's Corridor : Tapeworm Traverse (5.9 PG13)
By: Murf When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best thing about the route is the dike itself, the climbing is not very distinctive.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Conan's Corridor : Boulderado (aka California ... (5.11a)
By: Murf When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line, with clean, independent climbing for the whole 100 ft. The crux is some unusual liebacking maneuvers during the last half.
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