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Me climbing in La Jolla.


Member Since: Apr 2, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 13, 2014
Contact mschlocker


Point Rank: # 133
Total Points: 3,282
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 0
106 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mschlocker been climbing?










Contributions


All 1511 | Routes 117 | Areas 36 | Photos 280 | Page Improvments | Comments 172 | Posts 162 | Stars 516 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Monkey Dance (5.10b)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 8, 2006

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Comments: Thanks for the pictures Jeff. The winds have blown and they are up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Monkey Dance (5.10b)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 6, 2006

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Comments: Should have a cool picture soon if I can get the winds to blow it my way.


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: mschlocker When: Dec 5, 2006

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Comments: The following is pulled from the DSM website (maker of Dyneema).

"DyneemaŽ floats on water and is extremely durable and resistant to moisture, UV light and chemicals."

The dyneema sling I pull tested was also about one year old with significant sunlight hours and still held extreme load. I am surprised how many Spectra/Dyneema products are actually sold with all of its surrounding fear and mysticism. I would rule out UV as a root cause here.


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: mschlocker When: Nov 22, 2006

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Comments: About dynamic failure.

Pretty amazing that a Dyneema sling can be broken by a fall factor 2 with 150 Lb with no dynamic component in the system. I hope to shed a little light on this phenomenon. There are two things to consider.

1) Strain rate. How fast the material is stretching. Typically materials exhibit greater strength and stiffness at high strain rates. Strain rate is is not the problem here.

2) Shock dynamics. This is the culprit. Newton's law of an apple falling is (Force) = (... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 22, 2006

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Comments: Just trying to add some humor so this site does not end up like RC.com (which rates The Crucible 5.10c). Are we really having a pissing contest about one or two letter grades? Have you even climbed The Crucible Ben? I thought it was hard, the site rating was 5.10d so I went with it. If it is easier than that for you I applaud your offwidth prowess. There is no need to be vicious to people who you really know nothing about.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : The Bong (5.4)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 20, 2006

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Comments: Beginners will have no trouble with the route itself, they may injure themselves getting to or off of it however.

If you are truly a beginner bring a long rappel sling and rings to leave up top. Otherwise downclimb left at low 5th class back to the base of the climb.

The easiest approach (and I have done many) is to walk up a dike tending up and left on the west face of The Blob. This dike widens to a sidewalk higher up and is a very cool geologic feature. This dike will also take you to th... more >>


Location: Dyneema sling failure under...
By: mschlocker When: Nov 14, 2006

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Comments: I got intrigued by the photo of the broken sling. Since I had a similar dyneema sling of the same age which I wanted to retire due to a slight friction burn, I decided to put it through the static load test machine at work. The sling broke slightly below its 22 KN rating at 20.8 KN probably due to the friction burn. It broke at the location of the burn.

Notice that the break is very frayed, not at all clean like the other one that failed under use. I heard what sounded like individual fiber... more >>


Location: Gear Review - Black Diamond...
By: mschlocker When: Oct 23, 2006

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Comments: This device is my first autoblock belay device. Previously I employed the Munter hitch on multi pitch routes. The munter hitch, although many say it is too old school works very well and you can easily lower somebody. It is also very light. I was sold on the ATC guide however, when I saw how easy it is to set up a ratcheding pulley with one (not sure I will use this but it is cool). It is also cool that you can belay two seconds simultaneously and one can fall while the other climbs safely.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Great Race (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: This route was pretty fun. The first clip is in a good spot - for a climb that does not start on top of a ledge. If you feel uncomfortable throw a cam in at your feet so you do not slide off the ledge should you miss the first clip. If your belayer is up there with you, a tree anchor may suffice to make you both feel safe.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Orangahang (5.7)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 16, 2006

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Comments: Even though this route goes through a slight overhang, nice hand and foot holds make for a route that people of all experience levels can enjoy. Can set up a TR by heading up the gully to the left of the climb - bolts for TR.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait Of Power (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 9, 2006

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Comments: It wouldn't take an act of god to make this route longer. A bolt or two more continuing straight up the face would do the trick. I set up a TR so I could continue straight up for an equal length of additional and equally challenging face climbing.

Maybe I am a wus, but the bolt on this climb seems a little high to me. If uncomfortable about hurting your feet, bring a crash pad or stick clip. I was lucky to rap from somebody's rope above but you can walk off right. A bit tricky so look at i... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sunday Afternoon Boulder : East Flake (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 22, 2006

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Comments: There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Triton Tower (5.11a)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 4, 2006

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Comments: Traverse pitch (2) is very memorable. No difference leading or following this one, except you get to watch somebody else do it first when following. The tightest bolted pitch at the wall yet still the scariest I have been on. I guess my worry was how I would get back on the climb if I fell. Pitch 2 sets this route apart from all other routes at the wall, and is worth your while.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock
By: mschlocker When: Aug 11, 2006

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Comments: Lunch rock also means that climbers leave their TRs up while they eat lunch. One time I asked a climber if I could lead up next to his abandoned TR. He said no. I should have pulled it. This is a very popular area, please have respect by climbing the routes and cleaning your gear in a timely manner so others can enjoy the climbs as well. If a climb in this area is on your tick list, get here early or wait.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Jam Crack (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: One 60m rope will get you to the ground from the top of P1.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 7, 2006

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Comments: The start of this route can be identified by a small tree/bush growing out of the crack midway up the first pitch. The original start is from the left, starting up The Jam Crack. A 5.10c direct start leads up from the right which passes a small roof and then a bolt and hits the crack below the tree.

One 60m rope will get you back to the ground from the top of P1.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 27, 2006

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Comments: I think having an arm cast on would definitely downgrade this climb to 5.10b if not 5.9. It would really give the unfair advantage of extra armor and you could jam it in all sorts of new and creative ways.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Crucible (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: May 21, 2006

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Comments: This climb has taught me an important lesson. Wear socks, long pants, a short sleeve shirt AND a long sleeve shirt, as well as a helmet and tape gloves. With all of this on I was still bleeding when I finished. Very strenuous past the first half, but just keep inchworming and stick with it!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 30, 2006

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Comments: Seemed impossible at first. Once the sequence is figured out this climb goes solid, I swear it. Try going straight up the orange rock as opposed to from the left as the climber in the photo for a more direct line. Very fun climb but tough to figure out.
EDIT - I just upped my stars for this climb. Every move requires thought and many are equally difficult. Rock is solid albeit slippery. One of my favorites at Mission Gorge.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Digit's Delight (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: There are bolts for the TR so no need to bring any fancy gear if that's the plan.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Hamburger Crack (5.10- V0+)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: Bring gloves if you even plan on LOOKING at this thing. Very "meaty" as stated above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 10, 2006

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Comments: The bottom half of the climb up past the flakes is a little runout, but easier than 5.9. Consider slinging the first hollow flake. I did and felt it was much safer than using nuts. Climb protects very well at the crux with the aforementioned .75; bring more than one.


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