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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rectum Roof (5.10b/c)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bolt was added at the start, so now there are 3 instead of the original 2. The original 1/4" first bolt was replaced probably around 1999 and moved ~6" left, making it much harder (more dangerous) to clip. In summer of 2009 somebody decided to add a bolt below the original first bolt.
I have led this route multiple times on the 2 bolts and can say that the perfect solution would be to move the first bolt back right to its original location and remove the new bolt below that. Although chopp... more >>
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Location: Kyle Wills : General : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Water jugs get notoriously more dangerous when they are empty. That one looks pretty full so I'd call it a solid placement.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: mschlocker When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now a new guide option is available. The Allied Climbers of San Diego have created a guide for El Cajon Mtn, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera. It's quite a bit better than the SD climbing guide for Corte. I recommend you check it out at a local REI or better yet come to a member meeting. http://www.alliedclimbers.org .
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain
By: mschlocker When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now a new guide option is available. The Allied Climbers of San Diego have created a guide for El Cajon Mtn, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera. It's quite good. I recommend you check it out at a local REI or better yet come to a member meeting. http://www.alliedclimbers.org .
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Location: CO : Alien Inventor Passes Away
By: mschlocker When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aliens are the most placed pieces of gear on my rack. I hope David's spirit lives on through CCH.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Gallwas Crack (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good training for The Vampire, Bat Crack +Direct Start. Just imagine it's right facing and a little steeper and more continous.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Vampire (5.11a)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading all the beta and scoping out the step across for P1 I wasn't really seeing the move. I went for the mantle and am glad I did. For me it was a very dynamic move and my favorite on the route.
The direct start was clean when I did it but there were bats inside the crack higher up chirping(?) at me.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Take 5 (5.11c) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You should be studying! I guess I should be working right now.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : The Black Corridor
By: mschlocker When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dark, steep and ominous. There is a bird nest in the vicinity so it's advised not to climb in this area period.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went right around the roof. Other options may exist.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Tom is missing the key handhold. Probabaly a little harder as a mantle.
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Location: Jeffery : Rogers Canyon : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice double quickdraws.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Slama Jama (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would recommend taking a #.75 or #1 camalot for the run to the anchor. Although the climbing eases up toward the top, you would be quite run out relying on the last bolt as your last piece of pro.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : No Hope II (5.10b)
By: mschlocker When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring lots of small gear for this one.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : Zeno's Paradox (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts replaced 05/2009. Tony Grice and I popped nice stainless units back in the original holes. Go climb it!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : Zeno's Paradox (5.10d) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts replaced 05/2009. Tony Grice and I popped nice stainless units back in the original holes. Go climb it!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Dragon Arete (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am really bummed that I didn't have my camera with me on this one. If you head out bring you camera and post a photo, this thing is really photogenic. You could get the ocean in your shot on a clear day.
EDIT - Snagged the photo
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Hard as Nails (5.11b) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's my friend Jeff. Funny thing is we actually did see you running up Hear My Train that very day. I was belaying when that photo was taken.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley
By: mschlocker When: Apr 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just headed out here yesterday for the first time ever. I'm not much of a boulderer but this area may have changed my mind. Super frictony coarse rock in a great setting. About 1.5 hour drive from San Diego.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Dixon Lake : The Roof Area : The Roof (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb takes gear for a lead quite well. Very small cams to 2". It appears there were once pins at the lip of the roof, making nice alien pockets.
Very difficult short crux. Tape recommended.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Dixie Reality : Dixie Reality (5.12)
By: mschlocker When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's really great that FAs like this can still be found these days. Great work. You have truly created a "Back in the day" hardman story to tell future generations of climbers.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags
By: mschlocker When: Jan 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Many bolts got burned during the 2003 Cedar Fire. One was tension tested and showed sufficient strength. I can't gaurantee them all, but I'll share the experiment. Burned out bolts
The bolt was the first lead bolt from the leftmost climb on the Lone Star wall. The climb showed lots of fire damage as did the first few bolts.
The fire seems to have accelerated the rusting so these bolts will continue to degrade.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Bright Eyes (5.6) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember going straight up into the chimney. The traverse in caught my eye and looked entertaining. Did you have to set an extra belay after the traverse to minimize the rope drag?
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Marshmallow Tower (5.10c)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't let Scotty intimidate you. The right crack is not a bad lead. The left crack is definitely 5.11.
One big cam for the start (#4 C4, backclean) and the rest is TCU to 1". Brave souls may want to bypass the starting cam. The left variation looks like a dangerous lead but can be TR'd after you get to the top.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Trapeze (5.11 PG13)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a rap anchor, so this climb can be TR'd. You will need a way to extend the anchor 15+' over the lip of the climb. The crack can still pinch the rope so be careful.
Thanks Mark W for the beta out there.
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