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Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing in La Jolla.


Member Since: Apr 2, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact mschlocker

Point Rank: # 158
Total Points: 3,382
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
124 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mschlocker been climbing?










Contributions


All 1546 | Routes 118 | Areas 37 | Photos 294 | Page Improvements | Comments 177 | Posts 161 | Stars 531 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Unfinished Business (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this route is a bit more wild than the rest. Pitch 2 is quite exciting right off the deck.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Aiguille de Joshua Tree : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Correct. Light painting with speedlights. The thing I didn't really think through was how blind I would be after a flash was set off in my face at full power in the middle of the night. It was about a 30-45 minute exposure.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Trough (5.4)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Michael, you will see a term around called a "standard rack" and you will want more beta but alas, this is all you get. For most it is a set of nuts, a set of cams from very small to #3 or so with doubles for the ones you think you will want extras of. In this case, as with many routes, it is from #1-#3. Also included in that are 6-10 quickdraws/alpine draws and maybe some slings for trees. On such a long and easy route it's not needed or even possible to give a play by pla... more >>


Location: Asia : Japan : Yamanashi Prefecture : Mizugaki Yama
By: mschlocker When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: We ran into some guys making a new guidebook for the area. From the draft they showed me, it will be very good. Here they are taking photos for the guidebook. 2015 release.

Rock Climbing Photo: Mizugakiyama
Mizugakiyama



Location: Asia : Japan : Yamanashi Prefecture : Mizugaki Yama
By: mschlocker When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: You can park and camp at Mizugakiyama Natural Park (as located by Google Maps).


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Rock Beats Death (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: The FA was done before the bolts were put in. On the FA, Chris said, "I'm in the 8,000 meter zone". I took that to mean the death zone. He gave me the go-ahead to add the bolts to add to the fun of the area. I did so by putting in Rattlesnake Airline ground-up. Once in a while climbing is more about having fun and sharing an experience than trying to prove yourself.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Storm (5.10 PG13)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: What's cool about this route is that it offers a different experience than the rest of the mountain. It's pretty cool to get so high up on mostly gear. It has a little route finding and a little intimidation. I found the moves on 3 of the pitches to be very engaging. The whole experience is much more memorable than just another sport route.


Location: mschlocker : Bolt_Replacement : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: The goal was to see just what it would take to break the stainless by over-torqueing. Comparing what is in the specification (you are correct at 12 ft*lb), you can go a lot higher. I am not recommending that. My point here was that people who break them on install must really be out of touch with their torqueing skills.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Gecko Staircase (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a very hard route to onsight. Some days it feels harder than 11b, maybe it is. Some days it just flows like a thing of grace.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Dragonfly (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I just had to up my stars for this route. At first it didn't seem to stand out to me. For some reason I just want to climb it again and again. It's like a trusty old friend.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Dirty Bush (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: The route seemed improbable to protect until closer inspection. The thin seams just had to be cleaned of dirt to reveal bomber nut placements. When Kelly asked me, what's that go at? I told her it doesn't protect so nobody ever did it. She clearly proved me wrong.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: I have better photos of dudes that will never get as many "great stuffs"


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Lee Vining Ice : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: The approach to the ice climing near Lee Vining, off Tioga Pass Road.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: He's actually just walking on the ground.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : The Wasp (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: In the 1980 guide I have this is rated 10+/11


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: I'm not gonna lie. This guy is off route. Straight up to the bolt is probably easier than what he is doing. The crux is above the bolt.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: That's the look of "I don't want to blow this now". Looking confident. Nice.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: It always makes me nervous to have the belayer taking photos but in this case very worth it. Some day after a snow storm I need to head up there to get a photo with a snow covered Cuyamaca Peak in the background.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: P2 is one of the few leads I have backed off of in my climbing career. I have TRd it since and am glad I backed off. 11a is from the guidebook but for me it felt much harder.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Leah forgot that this climb is impossible... Nice job.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: It is bolted, it does not take gear.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: See above, that is what I usually do. I have recently finished on Tears of Envy with brings you out left a bit and it gets you high up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : South San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Pitches 2 and 5 are serious pitches. A fun intro to the center area of ECM is the following:

1 (5.9): Diamond of San Diego.
2 (10a): Thunder (walk left on not so grassy ledge a bit).
3 (5.10b): Diamond of San Diego, Center Block. Far right of Command Center Ledge. 5.9 If you stop on top of the block.

Pitches 3 and 5 of Diamond may or may not have bolts in place right now.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Easier and not as long as The Souvenir which was put up by the same person at the same time. Well protected. I never found the RP placement, instead using small cams.


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