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Me climbing in La Jolla.


Member Since: Apr 2, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 25, 2014
Contact mschlocker


Point Rank: # 137
Total Points: 3,282
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 0
111 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mschlocker been climbing?










Contributions


All 1510 | Routes 117 | Areas 36 | Photos 280 | Page Improvements | Comments 172 | Posts 162 | Stars 515 | Ratings 228
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Roshambo Ledge : Rock Beats Death (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: The FA was done before the bolts were put in. On the FA, Chris said, "I'm in the 8,000 meter zone". I took that to mean the death zone. He gave me the go-ahead to add the bolts to add to the fun of the area. I did so by putting in Rattlesnake Airline ground-up. Once in a while climbing is more about having fun and sharing an experience than trying to prove yourself.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Storm (5.10 PG13)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: What's cool about this route is that it offers a different experience than the rest of the mountain. It's pretty cool to get so high up on mostly gear. It has a little route finding and a little intimidation. I found the moves on 3 of the pitches to be very engaging. The whole experience is much more memorable than just another sport route.


Location: mschlocker : Bolt_Replacement : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: The goal was to see just what it would take to break the stainless by over-torqueing. Comparing what is in the specification (you are correct at 12 ft*lb), you can go a lot higher. I am not recommending that. My point here was that people who break them on install must really be out of touch with their torqueing skills.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : Gecko Staircase (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a very hard route to onsight. Some days it feels harder than 11b, maybe it is. Some days it just flows like a thing of grace.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Woodson View Slabs : Dragonfly (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I just had to up my stars for this route. At first it didn't seem to stand out to me. For some reason I just want to climb it again and again. It's like a trusty old friend.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Woodson View Slabs : Dirty Bush (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: The route seemed improbable to protect until closer inspection. The thin seams just had to be cleaned of dirt to reveal bomber nut placements. When Kelly asked me, what's that go at? I told her it doesn't protect so nobody ever did it. She clearly proved me wrong.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Pinnacle (5.7) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: I have better photos of dudes that will never get as many "great stuffs"


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Lee Vining Ice : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: The approach to the ice climing near Lee Vining, off Tioga Pass Road.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: He's actually just walking on the ground.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : The Wasp (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 18, 2012

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Comments: In the 1980 guide I have this is rated 10+/11


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: I'm not gonna lie. This guy is off route. Straight up to the bolt is probably easier than what he is doing. The crux is above the bolt.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: That's the look of "I don't want to blow this now". Looking confident. Nice.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: It always makes me nervous to have the belayer taking photos but in this case very worth it. Some day after a snow storm I need to head up there to get a photo with a snow covered Cuyamaca Peak in the background.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012

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Comments: P2 is one of the few leads I have backed off of in my climbing career. I have TRd it since and am glad I backed off. 11a is from the guidebook but for me it felt much harder.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Leah forgot that this climb is impossible... Nice job.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: It is bolted, it does not take gear.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: See above, that is what I usually do. I have recently finished on Tears of Envy with brings you out left a bit and it gets you high up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 24, 2011

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Comments: Pitches 2 and 5 are serious pitches. A fun intro to the center area of ECM is the following:

1 (5.9): Diamond of San Diego.
2 (10a): Thunder (walk left on not so grassy ledge a bit).
3 (5.10b): Diamond of San Diego, Center Block. Far right of Command Center Ledge. 5.9 If you stop on top of the block.

Pitches 3 and 5 of Diamond may or may not have bolts in place right now.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 29, 2011

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Comments: Easier and not as long as The Souvenir which was put up by the same person at the same time. Well protected. I never found the RP placement, instead using small cams.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Souvenir (5.10d R)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I highly recommmend this route. The "R" section for me was tamed with some aliens, and not too difficult. I have been on many non-R rated routes in this area that were much more scary than this, do not let the book rating discourage you, the FA is just badass and probably just blasted to place the pin high. Just make sure you can climb 10d slab. No way to cheat through this unless you haul up a stick clip.

P2 roof can be done straight up at 5.8, or you can add the spice and traverse right o... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : Line of Fire (5.11a)
By: mschlocker When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: There are spots for gear, I would bring some cams small to 3" if I remember right, if you like tight gear.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Deviate Behavior (5.11c) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Aug 31, 2011

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Comments: Deviate Behaviour starts to the right of your line a little, it goes up under the roof and traverses left. Or, maybe that is what I am doing wrong.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : South Face (5.8 C1)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: A couple of notes:

1) If you cannot find a parking spot use valet parking at the Ahwahnee, which is free (until all of you read this and take advantage). Tip the guys.

2) If rapelling, rap off the bush in the sandy gully with the rap slings about 120' out if I remember. There is a pine tree higher up but that adds a rap to a long day of double rope raps. Supertopo is wrong about how far you get off the pine tree.

3) There are two rap stations to climbers' right of the chimney to avoid s... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: As of 5/2011 the bolts are still in need of replacement. Looks like 3/8" studs with thin hangers.


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