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Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Woodson View Slabs : Dirty Bush (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route seemed improbable to protect until closer inspection. The thin seams just had to be cleaned of dirt to reveal bomber nut placements. When Kelly asked me, what's that go at? I told her it doesn't protect so nobody ever did it. She clearly proved me wrong.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Pinnacle (5.7) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have better photos of dudes that will never get as many "great stuffs"
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach to the ice climing near Lee Vining, off Tioga Pass Road.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He's actually just walking on the ground.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : The Wasp (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the 1980 guide I have this is rated 10+/11
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not gonna lie. This guy is off route. Straight up to the bolt is probably easier than what he is doing. The crux is above the bolt.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Jul 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the look of "I don't want to blow this now". Looking confident. Nice.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall : Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do it. The crux move is super well protected and the rest is in the 5.10 range. The crack protects great with mostly small cams but some medium as well.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It always makes me nervous to have the belayer taking photos but in this case very worth it. Some day after a snow storm I need to head up there to get a photo with a snow covered Cuyamaca Peak in the background.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 is one of the few leads I have backed off of in my climbing career. I have TRd it since and am glad I backed off. 11a is from the guidebook but for me it felt much harder.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Photo
By: mschlocker When: May 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leah forgot that this climb is impossible... Nice job.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : Stellar Walls : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is bolted, it does not take gear.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Dec 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: See above, that is what I usually do. I have recently finished on Tears of Envy with brings you out left a bit and it gets you high up.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitches 2 and 5 are serious pitches. A fun intro to the center area of ECM is the following:
1 (5.9): Diamond of San Diego.
2 (10a): Thunder (walk left on not so grassy ledge a bit).
3 (5.10b): Diamond of San Diego, Center Block. Far right of Command Center Ledge. 5.9 If you stop on top of the block.
Pitches 3 and 5 of Diamond may or may not have bolts in place right now.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Flashback (5.10d)
By: mschlocker When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easier and not as long as The Souvenir which was put up by the same person at the same time. Well protected. I never found the RP placement, instead using small cams.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Souvenir (5.10d R)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommmend this route. The "R" section for me was tamed with some aliens, and not too difficult. I have been on many non-R rated routes in this area that were much more scary than this, do not let the book rating discourage you, the FA is just badass and probably just blasted to place the pin high. Just make sure you can climb 10d slab. No way to cheat through this unless you haul up a stick clip.
P2 roof can be done straight up at 5.8, or you can add the spice and traverse right o... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : Line of Fire (5.11a)
By: mschlocker When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are spots for gear, I would bring some cams small to 3" if I remember right, if you like tight gear.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Deviate Behavior (5.11c) : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Deviate Behaviour starts to the right of your line a little, it goes up under the roof and traverses left. Or, maybe that is what I am doing wrong.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : South Face (5.8 C1)
By: mschlocker When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of notes:
1) If you cannot find a parking spot use valet parking at the Ahwahnee, which is free (until all of you read this and take advantage). Tip the guys.
2) If rapelling, rap off the bush in the sandy gully with the rap slings about 120' out if I remember. There is a pine tree higher up but that adds a rap to a long day of double rope raps. Supertopo is wrong about how far you get off the pine tree.
3) There are two rap stations to climbers' right of the chimney to avoid s... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 5/2011 the bolts are still in need of replacement. Looks like 3/8" studs with thin hangers.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Buffalo Brothers (5.8)
By: mschlocker When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed this. The upper rap station is up to the right of the last bolt. After you top out you have to scramble right and up to the belay station that sits on a separate rock. It is clearly visible from the lower rap station and above.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Poison Oak Boulder Area : Deport Jonny (aka Jonny Go ... (5.11b/c)
By: mschlocker When: Feb 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard a key hold broke off this route. Unless it can be glued back on, the difficulty has been upped significantly.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : Jaws Arete (5.10)
By: mschlocker When: Feb 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just made up the name because I do not know it.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Parallel Universe (5.10a)
By: mschlocker When: Jan 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had always wanted to do this just because it looks cool. It ended up being even better than it looks due to a long ramp you climb after the roof traverse. It heads up and right after the traverse.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Cottonwood Area : Cottonwood Camp : ... : Photo
By: mschlocker When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "i need get some wide angel action"
I prefer the skinny angels to the wide ones. Sometimes the wide ones are too heavy to fly you all the way up to heaven.
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