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Member Since: Dec 11, 2007
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 12,504
Total Points: 25
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Moof been climbing?










Contributions


All 238 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts 220 | Stars 8 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Half Crack (5.3)
By: Moof When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Bouldery start. Felt 5.5. Used 2x #5 C4 sized for the whole thing, just walked them up. Used #2,3,4 for an anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Moof When: Jan 7, 2016

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Comments: My preferred way to protect the start is to slot a large hex over my head while standing at the bast of the crack. You can then slot a fist (meat stopper) vertically right above the hex. Way bomber.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Bat Crack (5.5)
By: Moof When: Jan 7, 2016

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Comments: Good route. Getting up into the chimney start is the crux. Bring knee pads. The upper low angle grovel crack is a hoot. Large hexes can be better than cams for pro due to the irregular crack. Save a few 0.5-1# pieces for building an anchor. Probably the most physical 5.5 I have ever climbed.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Drawstring (5.8)
By: Moof When: Jan 7, 2016

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Comments: Used less wide stuff than I expected, a singles form 3" to 7" is plenty. Still found the need for #0.75-#2,which surprised me. Getting from the "trough" on to the face is indeed a bit exciting, the upper slab is run-out but no big deal. Would do it again. Bat Crack is probably a good warm up right next door (another gravely/grovely good time romp)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Mideast Crisis (5.8 A2)
By: Moof When: Dec 22, 2010

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Comments: Extra comments (Beta above is awesome):

Planck's Roof Variation is an excellent alternative to P2&3. Take 2x #5 (old school size), 2-3 #4.5 (old school side) and a couple #4's for the roof proper. At the end it is necessary to leap frog the big green cams, so you have to zip these back to your partner for him to re-aid. This variation is wild, and avoids the wettest pitches in spring.

P7's hateful flair can be avoided. Stay in the main crack , and don't go into the flair.... more >>



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