Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground... more >>
Comments: Combining this with Texas Hold'em makes for a fantastic route. For those who aren't cranking 12d (or b for that matter) you can avoid the 12d crux via a bolted 5.11 variation that has fun climbing and the 12b traverse is an easy pendulum if you don't have the time/ patience to figure out the boulder problem. This makes for a very fun outing while staying at the 12a grade. Texas Tower Lite?
Comments: Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!
Comments: Awesome dome in the heart of the Platte.
If you enjoy wandering aimlessly through thorns and bushwhacking, read no further, but if you want some approach beta and enjoy bushwhacking and thorns, here's some more info.
Once on FS 211, follow it past the Goose Creek Campground. Continue along 211 until you are past sunshine dome by a little ways and you see an old Forest Service road (actually 211) that has a locked gate and room for one car to park on the east side of the road. If you have ... more >>
Comments: Hands down the best face pitches I've climbed in The Platte, and we didn't even get to do the crux last pitch. The 2nd and 3rd pitch bolts have all been replaced except for a buttonhead on the 3rd pitch that protects the final runout to the anchors, which are also old :(. 30 ft to the right is the anchor for on the edge which is in a little bit better shape, but both are in need of being updated. The crux pitch is currently sporting 1/4"ers, hence why we didn't climb it. You can not get down... more >>
Comments: This route is awesome, and may be one of the best unknown routes I've done in the creek. I took (all BD's) 1 ea .3, #1, #2; (2)#4, (3)#4.5, (2)New #5's and (2)Old #5. I found the old(green) 5 to be key as a new 5 is tipped and #6 will not fit.
Comments: Sounds maybe like a loose nut on the bolt that had backed off until it finally got pulled off... One of the draw backs to fixed draws is people rarely check the condition of the bolt before climbing further. No good regardless.