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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 32 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,826
Last Year: 316
Last 30 Days: 28
232 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (2989) | Routes (51) | Areas (7) | Photos (364) | Comments (391) | Posts (857) | Stars (1016) | Ratings (303)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ancient Relics (5.10)
By: Monty When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : Permission Wall
By: Monty When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: From the large ledge on top of pitch 1, unrope and walk climber's left towards the Tan Corridor. There is a bolted anchor that deposits you on that trail.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Zed's Dead (5.12+)
By: Monty When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: Yup sorry for the confusion there. It's the only route I've climbed at Staunton that a #4 is mandatory.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Hey Leo, thanks for the pic but this is Ginger Snap.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon
By: Monty When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Snagging the FA of Zed's Dead in the Dungeon:



Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Coffin Crack (5.9)
By: Monty When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: That's lame.... Stealing anchors is bad mmmkay.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Coleman Direct (5.8)
By: Monty When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: Definitely sounds like you guys did the first pitch of Ancient Relics. I was battling wasps on that pitch so maybe that's why it felt 5.9 haha.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Cave of Eternal Stench (5.9-)
By: Monty When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: If wind is broken in the cave, the name will reveal itself....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: Monty When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for all or your community service, Jay!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: ...and modern gear, hahah.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Coyote Calling (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes in the Desert. DO IT!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Tower Direct (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Combining this with Texas Hold'em makes for a fantastic route. For those who aren't cranking 12d (or b for that matter) you can avoid the 12d crux via a bolted 5.11 variation that has fun climbing and the 12b traverse is an easy pendulum if you don't have the time/ patience to figure out the boulder problem. This makes for a very fun outing while staying at the 12a grade. Texas Tower Lite?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Mt. Lindsey Ice : The Motherlode : You're a Mother Lover (WI2+)
By: Monty When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Eat or be Eaten aka Super S... (5.10c)
By: Monty When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Levin's guide calls this Eat or be Eaten.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Problem Child (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Feb 26, 2013

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Comments: Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c) : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Feb 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Derek and ASCA!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sunshine Dome
By: Monty When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Awesome dome in the heart of the Platte.

If you enjoy wandering aimlessly through thorns and bushwhacking, read no further, but if you want some approach beta and enjoy bushwhacking and thorns, here's some more info.


Once on FS 211, follow it past the Goose Creek Campground. Continue along 211 until you are past sunshine dome by a little ways and you see an old Forest Service road (actually 211) that has a locked gate and room for one car to park on the east side of the road. If you have ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sunshine Dome : Shining Path (5.11b) : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Now having climbed this route... this picture is WAY more righteous.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : El Supremo (5.11b R)
By: Monty When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: Hands down the best face pitches I've climbed in The Platte, and we didn't even get to do the crux last pitch. The 2nd and 3rd pitch bolts have all been replaced except for a buttonhead on the 3rd pitch that protects the final runout to the anchors, which are also old :(. 30 ft to the right is the anchor for on the edge which is in a little bit better shape, but both are in need of being updated. The crux pitch is currently sporting 1/4"ers, hence why we didn't climb it. You can not get down... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: Monty When: Jan 5, 2013

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Comments: The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Stoked Bowl
By: Monty When: Dec 20, 2012

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Comments: I'm all about it. Thanks for the info!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall : Unknown OW (5.11)
By: Monty When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: This route is awesome, and may be one of the best unknown routes I've done in the creek.
I took (all BD's) 1 ea .3, #1, #2; (2)#4, (3)#4.5, (2)New #5's and (2)Old #5. I found the old(green) 5 to be key as a new 5 is tipped and #6 will not fit.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d) : Photo
By: Monty When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: You mean the left the toe cam I'm doing?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice
By: Monty When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: Should be in the sun in the AM, but being the steep nature of the crag I don't know how much it actually receives.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Enemies (5.12a/b)
By: Monty When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Sounds maybe like a loose nut on the bolt that had backed off until it finally got pulled off... One of the draw backs to fixed draws is people rarely check the condition of the bolt before climbing further. No good regardless.


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