Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Psychotic Love (5.10 R)
By: Monty When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you find any pins on your route? When I was bolting Fools Gold I looked over to the left (probably further left than your line) and saw some ancient looking pins. I love that section of Creek Side.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was there the day that happened! Dude thought somebody stole his car until he saw the tire poking out.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Call Me Barney (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Powerful, sporty, and awesome!
It sounds silly, but a 0.75, 5ft off the ground in the horizontal helps a lot in protecting the start. It keeps your nuts from zippering and your belayer from flying up.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Vanishing Point (5.10d) : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9 is the new 10.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Branching out of the southeast, I love it!
Thanks, guys!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Pipeline (5.12a)
By: Monty When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really great face route! The crux might be keeping your focus for the routes entirety. Stiff for the grade.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Road Warrior (5.10) : Photo
By: Monty When: Jul 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing Road Warrior on Friday the 13th... Wow!
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Location: WI : Willow River State Park : Genesis Effect (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say couch time is is a good benchmark 12c. This is a notch below that at 12b/c. Great movement on HUGE holds.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Cornflake Crack (5.11a)
By: Monty When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shoot-dang this route is good, man. Varied and interesting the whole way. It was a little wet and dirty yesterday but that only made it that much more fun. Certainly rivals wunsch's dihedral in Colorado as the best 11 crack climb I've done.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Quoting Yoda (5.11d)
By: Monty When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Filed?
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Location: TN : Deep Creek : Unknown 5 (5.10b)
By: Monty When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed this line and was by far my favorite at the Tea and Crumpets Wall.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Points O' Contact (5.10c)
By: Monty When: Mar 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One more rope drag tip! You can place a .5 size piece with a runner in the flake to the left of the roof. This keeps your rope well away from the crack at the lip.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Comment : Photo
By: Monty When: Mar 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Roughin' it.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Breakfast of Champions (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely agree about the doubles. I just tied into both ends of my rope then untied from one end at the anchor. Also blowing the upper mantle would not be a good idea. Awesome pitch!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : After Dark (5.10c/d)
By: Monty When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a good route and well bolted. Not a classic, but fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8)
By: Monty When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Playing Hooky and Solid Gold area get some sun in the morning in the winter, so it's definitely possible this time of year. The approach may not be too fun though.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If there was only a cool way to get to that other patina!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Rotundity : Hmm! Fresh Meat! (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting this up, Ken!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Dec 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Monty When: Dec 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route that is relatively safe. I found it nice to have 2 00 c3s to protect the lower crux. Super fun.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Lime and Punishment (5.11b/c)
By: Monty When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route! Definitely one where the sequences seem like they are going to be hard, but after doing them your surprised. Balancy and steep?!?!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : El Gaucho : Inknobvious Line (5.9)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: No gear needed. Just 4-5 slings and a couple draws. Thought the traverse was much harder than 5.9 though. An 80m rope might get you down.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") (5.10b)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack!
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Oct 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta love that right index finger. Looks like it's really helping ;)
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Creekafixion (5.11)
By: Monty When: Sep 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: For Creekafixion, you tip toe traverse over the roof following the bolts. You might be confusing Creekafixion with the route to the left that pulls a roof. It will all become very obvious once you are up there.
Cheers
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