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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Monty When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't forget the RPs and plenty of draws. Great route that climbs a lot better/different than what one would think. A 70m will barely get you safely to the ground with no down climbing.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10) : Photo
By: Monty When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "No more bolt conversations;" Are you kidding me. You may as well chop them now since they aren't needed any more, just like leading long standing classic routes in Clear Creek on gear.
Have a freaking cookie!
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Location: CO : Free cap with membership to...
By: Monty When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: Monty : Clear Creekage : Photo
By: Monty When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nope... nothing you've seen before.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Monty When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This now sports lower off clips since most people lower to clean their draws any how.
-Cheers
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c) : Photo
By: Monty When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know why this is funny... but it made me chuckle
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: - ***Single Rope Descent****
From the summit you can make a short rap back down to the shoulder, then rap the North Face (Pale Fire) in 4 raps easily with a 70m rope. Keep in mind if you are only carrying 1 rope you have no option of bailing off the route with out leaving something behind... I think...
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Shenanigans (5.6)
By: Monty When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spruced up Shenanigans today. Added chains with fixed biners (please do not remove!) to the anchor left of Rhett Wrench. So you can climb Rhett Wrench pitch 1, bust left at the anchor, clip one more bolt, then clip the fixed biners and lower to the shore.
Also added a belay bolt on the shore side to keep your belayer in place while you get lowered back to the fixed rope.
Enjoy!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall
By: Monty When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure if the access has changed, but it doesn't seem as if anyone is following/ know about these guidelines as there is no information actually posted at any of the bulletin boards or at the wall.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Unknown B (5.10)
By: Monty When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new guide book calls this route Cassey's Route, but still lacks to inform you of the midway anchor. This is a great thin hands splitter to the midway anchor, not to be missed... doesnt really look like anyone ever goes past the midway anchor.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Anunnaki (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: certainly one of the most unique routes at the creek. amazing movement, perfect pro, and great setting.
As far as the rating is concerned, 11+ seems fair, but as everything else at the creek it is very style (not hand size) dependent.
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Location: Monty : other : Photo
By: Monty When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: shit son, this is just trainin for the double stout
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Rumplemintz (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Darren, I wanted to call this Rumplemintz to keep the theme of the wall goin' (I hate Rumplemintz).
Mike and I changed our minds about the name when I trundled a large death block after making sure nothing would get hit. Just my luck it hit my hammer, the force ripped off my gear loop, which my drill and hammer were attached to, and sent both flying for about 60' to be caught in a bush virtually unharmed. So, even though this route is called Rumplemintz... to us it will always be know... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Mourning Glory : Belays of Glory (aka "Glory... (5.14+)
By: Monty When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just go do it already!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Sea Cliffs of North Quarry
By: Monty When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, where is this? and is this really part of North Table, sounds like a completely diffferent trailhead.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Monty When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm gonna have to completely disagree with bjorn, I think this is a great route with very good rock. Doing this in one pitch is highly recomended.
As Adam mentioned, you can bring a couple mid-sized cams (or just run it out) and continue straight up the crack, then traverse back left higher up and avoid the pesky mid anchor fiasco.
Yes, the climbing eases greatly in the middle, but the climbing is still of high quality, and one of my favorite moderate long pitches in the canyon.
Cheers
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Monty When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just noticed the route description says this route is 250' long?.... I climbed this yesterday for the first time and had no problem linking both pitches with the use of long slings, and the occasional runout. More like 155 feet of awesomeness.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Lu... (5.11- R)
By: Monty When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yet another great contribution to the canyon. Can't think of a better way to remember someone who has done so much for our community.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Sprout (5.13a)
By: Monty When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun, but there is about a dozen drilled pockets on this one...
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Space Lord (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the best "real" 12c at Maple. It feels like an odyssey, it just goes on and on.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Minienticer (5.9)
By: Monty When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: pumpiest 5.9 ever
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah com'on Cassidy, you were sprayin to me at the bar that you were climbing in just t-shirts up there, the camera sure added a layer or two.
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Diggler (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the dr. topo calls this a 12d... I'd call it a very stout 12d, or a very soft 13a.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+) : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any thing that is green and called black death has got a special place in my heart for sure.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Shenanigans (5.6)
By: Monty When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This makes the approach to Brenivin very easy... heck we were able to climb this both ways in flip flops/ Chacos in under 10 mins. Pretty good way to add a little more to your warm up before hopping on the roof, or other routes on left creekside.
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