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Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep 7b crux of S├╝pervitamin.


Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Monty
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Point Rank: # 156
Total Points: 3,487
Last Year: 253
Last 30 Days: 91
285 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3459 | Routes 73 | Areas 15 | Photos 414 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 453 | Posts 958 | Stars 1213 | Ratings 330
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Crimpfest (5.12a)
By: Monty When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Just about every bolt is a spinner on this route... Could be the stacked washers from the swap.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Glenfiddich (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: I thought this was a great route! Powerful moves out the roof lead to some great slab climbing. It's not a bad idea to extend the bolt of the roof to minimize drag.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Bird Rock : East Side : Quackmore Duck (5.10b)
By: Monty When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: I wish the crack portion of this route went on forever!!!!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Bird Rock : East Side : Thunderbird (5.12a)
By: Monty When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route with fun steep jug hauling to a powerful crux. We also got on the newly bolted route to the right of "Go for It," and thought that was a touch harder. Cool area with great views!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Altered State (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: HA! I just spit out some beer, Dan! I agree the bolt is higher than most are comfortable with (including myself), but grid bolting isn't "fixing" anything.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : Branching Out (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: This is a great route that will only get better with traffic. The movement is excellent on this one, and the bolts are right where you want them. I thought getting past the first bolt was harder than 5.11 though.... Anyways, thanks for the fine addition, Kevin!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair III : Unicorn Exterminator (5.10c)
By: Monty When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Much like unicorns, the quality of this route is simply make-believe.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair II : A Thing of Beauty (5.10b/c)
By: Monty When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Phenomenal route, one of my new favorites! Doubles from yellow Alien to #4, a single #5 and #6 was a comfy rack for me though an extra #2 or #3 might be helpful. You can use the bolts on medium cool, but you need to rig up a directional to protect your partner in the upper squeeze. I wouldn't be upset if a bolted anchor was placed on top of this route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : John's Tower : House of Cards (5.11a)
By: Monty When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Great route! I found a green Alien (blue Metolius) was all you need to protect this route perfectly. Thanks for the addition, the second pitch looks awesome too!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs : Another Load of Ginormous E... (5.11)
By: Monty When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: A good route with excellent stone/pro. However, the ramp system beneath the crux would love to wreak havoc on you ankles. Leave the #3 behind.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion
By: Monty When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: @2chains. Check your facts. New routes have legally gone in at Tiers of Zion since the new climbing management plan. There are several people still active in the canyon and elsewhere on JeffCo land. Notice that The Tiers were not affected by any of the recent nesting closures....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Portal (5.9 PG13)
By: Monty When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: As per MP user doug haller:

Definitely consider avoiding P1 of Stromboli. It is a caving experience through gaps between large chockstones.

A nice route if you want to avoid the crowds on Meeker and the Diamond.

Final pitch: #5 Cam worth its weight on this pitch.
Prepare to sling chockstones regardless of how many large cams you carry.
According to Gillett and Rossiter, the roof about 40-50' up the final pitch can be avoided by moving left. My partner'... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Turkey Time (5.10-)
By: Monty When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Indeed. Sorry for the name change confusion.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Bombardier Dome : Carpe Diem (5.10d)
By: Monty When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Fun route with great stone, thanks for the great addition Alex. Bring your footwork for this one!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector : Devil's Gate : Dammit Samet (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Huh, there must be an error on the Rakkup app.... The route Slim and I are referencing is the route just right of the Succubus that starts in a seam. Difficulty seemed comparable to The Shaft.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Rocketman (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Greg, I'm pretty sure thats what we did when we climbed R.M. That boulder problem on Gneiss Route is funky!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Tofurkey Area : Southeast Arete (V5)
By: Monty When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Well, it is on the Southeast side of the boulder.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams and Sycamore Canyo... : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : ... : Belays of Our Wives (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: One of the best route names I've seen in a while!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Squirming Coil Area : Bearded Lady (aka Hand Crac... (V1)
By: Monty When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Britzn89, I believe the problem you are referring to is Contrivance.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : New Beginnings (5.12)
By: Monty When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This route now has 9 bolts (used to have 5). Some gear is still needed between the 3rd and 4th bolt (large nut or .75 BD) as well as for the steep crack toward the top which takes anything from nuts to a #2. The route is much safer and more enjoyable now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: Monty When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Hmmm... an R rated newly installed route?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Nope, that is most definitely the finish of the Great Escape. See this picture for clarification.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route with great varried climbing.
A few comments:
- The rack beta mentioned here is spot on. We were happy to have tripples from purple - orange metolius as well as offset nuts. We brought the #4, but can see why others don't.
- Save a #1 camalot for after the traverse on the crux pitch, you'll be happy you did!
- The tree at the top is nothing more than a sawed off stump now, so lunge on!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Just when I didn't think this route could get any better, someone goes and does something awesome like bolting the airy direct finish! Thanks for the fine addition, boys!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Hi Strappo,
We will be there Saturday only this weekend. Would love to meet up at Zookas still! Send me a Personal Message through the site, and we can make plans.

-Dave


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