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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 165
Total Points: 2,968
Last Year: 223
Last 30 Days: 19
244 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3104 | Routes 57 | Areas 8 | Photos 374 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 405 | Posts 883 | Stars 1065 | Ratings 311
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Cloak of the Wolf (5.12+)
By: Monty When: 6 days ago

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Comments: My buddy Cody and I managed a team send of the Cloak today (FFA?). He styled the roofs pitch (HARD!), and I managed to onsight the headwall. I gotta say that headwall pitch has got to be one of the best face pitches in the Platte, unbelievable feature! Thanks for all of your time and effort on this thing, Darren, it is truly a special route!

A few notes on the route:
It is possible to get off with a single 70m (we did), the only pitch that involves any extendo rappel... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Brennivin (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Matt and Pete! This a great line that I never cared to repeat due to the deteriorating pin, but now I have no excuse!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8) : Photo
By: Monty When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I'm glad you guys had fun up there, but you really need to learn some better anchor practices. In this picture, there is a follower who was incorrectly being belayed in "guide mode" off of a single piece of protection. The brake side of the device is not tied off, nor is there a hand on the brake. If he leaned back, he would fall 200ft, and that's only if you were still tied into the rope. At this point, the entire fall would be on ONE bolt.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Tickle My Blossom (5.11 PG13)
By: Monty When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: Doze, you must have gotten on Ddong Chim which starts in the same pockets as Tickle my Blossom but then follows bolts to the right. TmB travels slightly left after the pockets and pulls a roof.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Helen, you must have linked the first 2 pitches which is easily done. That would make your "2nd pitch" the 3rd pitch as listed in the description :)


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: Monty When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: This is an excellent rock climb, thanks so much for putting it in! We found the grades to be about right on, though the crux pitch is very thin and would be harder for fat fingers. I attempted to free the A0 (not sure how if pulling on bolts is C0 or A0), but I gave up about halfway. I definitely think that it is possible, but it will certainly require some patience.

We rapped the route with 2 70m ropes, but next time I'll just bring one. All the raps would be fine except the last rap to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2014

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Comments: Now that the footsy block has been removed from the lower anchor (THANKS GUYS!), a decent stance can be made by placing a 0.4 size piece in the crack to the left of the anchor and clipping in short. Thanks again to everyone who has helped rebolt, dremmel, and trundle, this is an awesome rock climb!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : No Turning Back (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Great route! I should have sent, but a foot broke off on me at the end of the crux. Luckily, there is still a small edge that can be used that I don't think will ever break.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Soap on a Rope (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Glad to hear people are diggin' this line!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : I Am Not A Philistine (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic rock climb with a bouldery crux, an arm numbing pump, and an exciting finish!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Welcome to Staunton (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: WTS now has 4 bolts through the initial bouldery crux. The additional bolt was approved by the SSPFHRG in June, and I installed the bolt yesterday. This makes WTS a much safer lead. Enjoy!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Monty When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: "Tod recommends camping south of the DH campground along Rampart Range Rd."

That is spot on!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome : Hey Ranger! (5.5)
By: Monty When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: Instead of bushwhacking through the descent gully, you can easily 5th class traverse just above the gully. Probably not any faster, but waaaaay more fun.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Photo
By: Monty When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: The Park View and Ranch Hand Dome closure has been lifted as of 5/8/14.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Monty When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: I just got word from the Park that the seasonal closures for the Park View Dome and the Ranch Hand dome have been lifted, but climbers are urged to report any raptor activity.


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Thanatos (5.10a) : Photo
By: Monty When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: That is not Thanatos, that is Power behind the throne 11d.


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Power Behind the Throne (5.11+)
By: Monty When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Simply amazing line, my new favorite Freemont face climb! If you are planning on leading the route, rap from the anchor on top of storming intrepid since it deposits you at the same belay without having to swing around or clip any directionals. This will also keep your fixed line out of your way while leading out. Some of the bolts are getting quite rusted on this guy.


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : Wine and Roses : Heroes and Zeroes (5.11+)
By: Monty When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: If you are planning on leading this route, it is possible to rap power behind the throne and swing over (climbers right) to the bolted stance on Heroes. By doing this, your fixed line is out of the way the entire time your leading out. On another note, this excellent route could really use some new hardware.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Turkey Turd (5.11c) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for sharing, Dan, what a bad ass! He will be greatly missed.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : DOA (5.13a) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Glenn doesn't need holds, he simply crushes the rock into holds.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Jabba the Hut (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: One of my new favorites at Penitente!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Guppy : My Significant Other (5.13d)
By: Monty When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Way to go, Jay! Props to you for staying motivated all of these years. Truly inspiring.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Spun Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Monty When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I think a 70m would make it, but it would be pretty challenging to get back to that anchor at the bottom of P4, since the pitches wander to the right through fairly steep terrain. The easiest descent from P5 is to rap to the intermediate anchor in the middle of Playin' Hooky.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man And The Sea Direct (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route that is really sustained. I personally thought this was harder than Tiger's Woody, but maybe it's the technical subtleties that make it feel harder. Like Mike said, when I first tried the route, it felt like 13a, but once I unlocked some key beta, it felt slightly easier. Thanks for the route!


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