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Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep 7b crux of S├╝pervitamin.


Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Monty
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Point Rank: # 169
Total Points: 3,307
Last Year: 313
Last 30 Days: 0
273 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3369 | Routes 65 | Areas 15 | Photos 397 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 438 | Posts 945 | Stars 1180 | Ratings 326
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Tofurkey Area : Southeast Arete (V5-6)
By: Monty When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Well, it is on the Southeast side of the boulder.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Williams/ Sycamore Canyon : *Volunteer Canyon : North Side : ... : Belays of Our Wives (5.10+)
By: Monty When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: One of the best route names I've seen in a while!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Squirming Coil Area : Bearded Lady (aka Hand Crac... (V1)
By: Monty When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Britzn89, I believe the problem you are referring to is Contrivance.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Dungeon : New Beginnings (5.12-)
By: Monty When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This route now has 8 bolts (used to have 5). Some gear is still needed between the 3rd and 4th bolt (large nut or .75 BD) as well as for the steep crack toward the top which takes anything from nuts to a #2. The route is much safer and more enjoyable now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: Monty When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Hmmm... an R rated newly installed route?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Monty When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Nope, that is most definitely the finish of the Great Escape. See this picture for clarification.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route with great varried climbing.
A few comments:
- The rack beta mentioned here is spot on. We were happy to have tripples from purple - orange metolius as well as offset nuts. We brought the #4, but can see why others don't.
- Save a #1 camalot for after the traverse on the crux pitch, you'll be happy you did!
- The tree at the top is nothing more than a sawed off stump now, so lunge on!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Monty When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Just when I didn't think this route could get any better, someone goes and does something awesome like bolting the airy direct finish! Thanks for the fine addition, boys!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Hi Strappo,
We will be there Saturday only this weekend. Would love to meet up at Zookas still! Send me a Personal Message through the site, and we can make plans.

-Dave


Location: CO : Golden/Denver Climbing Comm...
By: Monty When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: Forum Post Here


Location: Monomaniac : Banana Stand Mini Guide : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Best crag theme ever! Thanks for all of your work. I'd love to get the tour of some of the other crags too!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Hey Strappo! My buddy, Cody, and I finished bolting the route last fall (on lead of course). We more or less used the same approach you guys did, but instead of climbing to the belay of Wunch's, we found you could just stay left and follow some flakes after climbing Breashears. Thanks for the initial vision, you guys planted the seed for an amazing line. It has been a hell of a lot of work to push the line to the top, but the climbing is unreal. Crimps forever!

It's still currently a project,... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+) : Photo
By: Monty When: Dec 30, 2015

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Comments: I have an annotated version with of this topo with the splitter variation drawn in, as well as some gear and water beta. PM me if you are interested. Thanks, Jason, for the original topo, it was super helpful!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Pretty Woman (5.10a)
By: Monty When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: I replaced the coldshuts at the anchor with stainless hangers and rings. Not sure why coldshuts are still being used on modern routes. Thanks to the BCC for the anchor chains, please think about donating at boulderclimbers.org/support/do...


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: Monty When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: My wife Lisa and I replaced all of the bolts (except the low first bolt that does nothing) with 1/2" stainless steel Power bolts. The majority of the holes were reused.

Rock Climbing Photo: Old bolts vs. new 1/2" stainless.  Original h...
Old bolts vs. new 1/2" stainless. Original hardware was placed in 1996....


Rock Climbing Photo: The sleeve is completely rusted to the inner bolt....
The sleeve is completely rusted to the inner bolt. Hard to imagine the cone being engaged in this scenario.



Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Photo
By: Monty When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: My favorite view of the pinnacle!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : The Rodeo (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Ha! Of course I did, Glenn.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : The Rodeo (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Anyone have a story as to why there is a key tied to the anchor? Pretty random, haha.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Game of Drones (5.12d)
By: Monty When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Great stone with a hard, sustained crux. Felt leagues harder than The Shadow or The Penetrators.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Handicapable (5.12b)
By: Monty When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments: Hi Derek, I'm glad you guys liked this little number. We originally left 2 quicklinks and 2 biners on both of these routes figuring that people would leave them be, but it sounds like someone thought those biners were booty... lame! Those stainless studs have a tendency to loosen up over time. I'll try to get over there with a torque wrench soon.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Welcome to Staunton (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route again yesterday, and it breaks my heart that this route doesn't see more traffic. Nothing has broken since the FA except some little crispy feet that don't matter, and the pitch protects VERY well now with the additional 4th bolt. The finger crack after the crux is some of the best climbing at Staunton.... On a side note, you can easily set up a top rope on the route from No Opportunity Missed if you want to scope the gear and hang draws.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ddong Chim! (5.11-)
By: Monty When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Third bolt appeared fine last night. We torqued it, and the rest of the route with a torque wrench to ensure they don't loosen up again.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : San Francisco Peaks : Hobo Jungle : Lucky Streak (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: It's a bigger initial investment, but it's pretty hard to argue against the steel Climb Tec carabiners with pin. Maybe a GNAR fundraiser?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Low Wire : The Grizz (5.13b)
By: Monty When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: This route is a great exercise in burliness and a fine sparring partner!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttresses : Fallen Angel (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Like Mike said, this is a great route! I thought the original gear beta was spot on, though I do recommend back cleaning some gear at the start of the first pitch (anything smaller than 0.75). Thanks for the route, Josh^2!


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