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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 2,820
Last Year: 305
Last 30 Days: 18
231 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (2984) | Routes (50) | Areas (7) | Photos (365) | Comments (390) | Posts (854) | Stars (1015) | Ratings (303)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Jabba the Hut (5.11c)
By: Monty When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: One of my new favorites at Penitente!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Guppy : My Significant Other (5.13d)
By: Monty When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Way to go, Jay! Props to you for staying motivated all of these years. Truly inspiring.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Spun Gold (5.12a/b)
By: Monty When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I think a 70m would make it, but it would be pretty challenging to get back to that anchor at the bottom of P4, since the pitches wander to the right through fairly steep terrain. The easiest descent from P5 is to rap to the intermediate anchor in the middle of Playin' Hooky.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man And The Sea Direct (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Definitely agree with Jay. This route description should be nothing more than a comment on the Old Man and the Sea page. It's not only a duplicate, it is also a huge inflation of the grade.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Chum (5.12c/d)
By: Monty When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route that is really sustained. I personally thought this was harder than Tiger's Woody, but maybe it's the technical subtleties that make it feel harder. Like Mike said, when I first tried the route, it felt like 13a, but once I unlocked some key beta, it felt slightly easier. Thanks for the route!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Fallen Angels (5.10b) : Photo
By: Monty When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: True, but it's definitely the best way to climb Equinox!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Monty When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: Hey Tyson,

The list of closures seems large, but the majority of developed climbs are unaffected and closures will generally be lifted by August 1st. The only full blanket closure is in the Sawmill Crags, and that is partly for the raptors but also for other sensitive resources such as Telesonix and Monkey Flower. A development plan is in the works for that area that aims to protect sensitive resources and allow climbing where possible.

Since Staunton is a young, understaffed park, blanket ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls (5.12b/c)
By: Monty When: Feb 8, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic addition to this wall! Thanks, guys.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen
By: Monty When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice, Drew, thanks for posting! Just curious, what aspect does the crag face?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : The Golden Hammer (5.12a)
By: Monty When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Glenfiddich (5.11+)
By: Monty When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: According to another post by Glenn, he and Mark Milligan did this just before the fire in 2002 but never named it.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Goin' Postal (5.12)
By: Monty When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Another awesome route on The Post Office. I thought the crux was holding on to dink in the gear above the first bolt (and holding on afterwards). For a little more beta: follow the bolts up to a sloping ledge system. Foot traverse right across the ledge and continue up a crack that leads left into horizontals. Finish left on the anchor for Powder Monkey.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Stranglehold (5.11)
By: Monty When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: This route is not to be missed! Thanks for the sanity bolts and the independent anchor, guys. I found a single rack of a few medium stoppers, and cams from #0.4-#2 to be sufficient.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a) : Photo
By: Monty When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: That flake was gone when we climbed it in August. Definitely felt 11c getting through that section.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park
By: Monty When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey Dan,

There are some routes on Lion's Head, but we have had a very hard time learning about their history. I'd say it is safe to assume that all the "major" weaknesses have been climbed. I haven't heard of any new routes on Lions Head yet, but I think the approach alone is keeping most climbers away. Lion's Head is completely open to trad climbing from Aug. 1st - Feb. 1st, but all proposed fixed hardware must be submitted to a committee for approval before being installed. Unfortunately ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Never Named, No. 39 (5.9+)
By: Monty When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Welcome to Staunton (5.12+)
By: Monty When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: Spoiler alert:

After pulling the crux past the 3rd bolt, a bomber yellow Alien can be placed from a decent stance from a finger lock (possibly more if you want). Shortly after this you can place a very good red c3 (a bit of a stretch) backed up by a strange, but solid, red Alien. This will protect the 11+/12a section Matt is referring to above.

With the correct gear (obviously challenging for the onsight), I never felt the climb was dangerous, but as Matt stated, the ground isn't too far a... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Pocket Hercules (5.11d)
By: Monty When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Really enjoyable route that is tricky and pumpy all at the same time. I thought (3) x 0.75s felt sufficient especially if you have triples in 0.5s. There was a rope anchor up and climber's left that allowed for an easy descent back to your packs.


Location: ID : The Fins
By: Monty When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Some more approach beta can be found here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Machine Gun Funk (5.13a)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: This is a great route that is cleaning up nicely. I can't imagine anything else breaking off in the roof. Definitely not soft for the grade anymore.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Indirect Savant (5.12c)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: I'm confused, is this the right or the left of the two Idiot routes? The left route felt mid-11 (we did not climb the right).


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : The Ranch Hand : Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon (5.8 PG13)
By: Monty When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: We originally did this route in 1 pitch to near the top with a 70m rope.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: Monty When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Such a fun route on great stone. As stated above, the first pitch is VERY "R"....

A note about the rappels:
- Yes, you can easily get off with one 70m.
- To find the raps, walk to the saddle and look for a large boulder that overhangs the edge of Arrowhead. Peek around the corner and you'll find the anchor. 2 raps and a short 5th class downclimb puts you at your packs.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Photo
By: Monty When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Is the rope out left hanging from the Coleman Direct anchor or is this way far right on the Cascades Wall?


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ancient Relics (5.10)
By: Monty When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground... more >>


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