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Rock Climbing Photo: Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo: Adam Sanders.


Member Since: Oct 26, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Monomaniac
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Point Rank: # 13
Total Points: 17,741
Last Year: 479
Last 30 Days: 36
701 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5727 | Routes 575 | Areas 143 | Photos 1870 | Page Improvements | Comments 491 | Posts 1736 | Stars 852 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12d)
By: Monomaniac When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: If only there were a grade between 12c and 13a ;)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Glad to hear you're back on the rock!

It seems that the GBN, North Gym, & Damage Wall are safe for "fixed" draws. I wouldn't leave draws anywhere else. Good luck and let me know how it goes.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments: He probably mis-placed his pad while high. It took more than 10 minutes just to find a picture with his feet on the rock. I never did find one with his shirt on. :)


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : Espresso (5.12d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 11, 2011

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Comments:
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
Just another case of "Jessery." Doesn't the rubberized knee pad/knee bar constitute aid? If you're trying to climb the hardest grade you can why make it easier by resorting to aid. You don't see Chris Sharma, Ramon Julian, or Adam Ondra utilizing knee bars!!


Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.
Chris Sharma on Humildes pa Casa.


Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Ondra.
Adam Ondra.



Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Gun Street : The Aspen Glade : Californios (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 27, 2011

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Comments: I just checked Steve's book and he lists Joe Desimone (of Face Dancer fame, among others). I think I had this confused with Mutt Ridin Monkey, which shares the same anchor. Steve lists the FA for that route as "unknown".


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Monomaniac When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: Rifle has re-opened!


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : New Elevenmile Guidebook
By: Monomaniac When: May 28, 2011

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Comments: Awesome work, Ben! With your dedication to the area, I'm sure it will be a kick ass book. Can't wait to see it!


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : High Tor : ... : Lyme Cryme (5.10d)
By: Monomaniac When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: According to his fine autobiagrophy, Revalations, a young Jerry Moffat nearly met his demise on this route when he failed to properly anchor himself to the tree at the top of the cliff. One of his followers fell and pulled him from the ledge. Luckily they were both caught by one of the ancient pitons placed on the FA, after a fall of 50 feet!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Endeavor to Persevere (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: Hmm, I think you might have some bad beta ;)


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Bagdhad (5.13-)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Note that its 12c in the current Bechtel guide. Freakin' Lander locals! Expect 12b in the new edition ;)


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : One Love (5.13c)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: This one has only three monos, and though the mono moves are not the hardest moves, they are the most likely to shut you down. The true redpoint crux is pulling through the high roof--the "12+" rating for this section (shown in the Collins/White guide) is a sandbag IMO.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Come Home Curly (5.13d)
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the more unique routes around, with wild, gymnastic movement and improbable sequences. There are 5 monos, with the crux involving a dyno off a keeper mono to a small but incut mono with poor feet. The mid-section of this route has excellent stone, but the start can be seapy and tends to be a bit sub-par. The upper roof is trivial with good beta, so this is basically a 15-20 move sprint to reach the slab.

The name comes from the opening lines of the John Prine song "Speed of ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: True, Cactus, The Bank, The Gallery & Sand Gulch tend to be crowded, but there are many other crags that go (literally) years without any climber traffic. In my last 20 climbing days at Shelf, I have seen exactly 2 other climbers that were not in my party, and they weren't even at the cliff; we passed them on the approach.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (zz) Upper Gorge
By: Monomaniac When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: If you're serious, you might consider contacting Paul Marshall. He's an architect living in Bend. He was Mr. Upper Gorge when I was climbing there in '05. He was talking about moving back East, so he may not be in Bend anymore.

The Upper Gorge is a great crag that deserves more attention.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + ... : Smoke Shapes (5.13d) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Dude, don't forget to update your profile!


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Busload of Faith (5.14a) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: Thanks again for the sweet pics!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Lower La Cueva Canyon : Meadow : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 22, 2011

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Comments: AHHHHHHHH! The Apocolypse is upon us! RUN FOR THE HILLS!!!!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : "Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: I corresponded with Bob & Carrie, and they confirmed these are their routes, but they either did not name them, or don't remember the names, so suggested that I name them.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : "Tommy" (Unnamed) (5.11c)
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: I corresponded with Bob & Carrie, and they confirmed these are their routes, but they either did not name them, or don't remember the names, so suggested that I name them.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym : Apogee Pending (5.14a) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: The wall is this steep:

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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North Gym
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Man, the best ones are still projects....


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: Here's an alphabetical listing of the routes in The Trapps with sub-area indicated:

??: 5.11b, R k. The Slime Wall
10,000 Restless Virgins: 5.10+, PG l. Sleepy Hollow
48: 5.2, G j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Area) - The Seasons (The Spring)
49: 5.2, G j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Area) - The Seasons (The Spring)
50-50: 5.5, G i. High E
60-40: 5.7, PG i. High E
69: 5.3, G ?a. The Uberfall?... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Storm King
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: The page looks great, Matthias. Thanks for fixing it!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall
By: Monomaniac When: Mar 1, 2011

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Comments: Nice crag name! How do you feel about playing pre-1980 Billy Joel covers?


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Bubbles (5.13b) : Photo
By: Monomaniac When: Feb 27, 2011

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Comments: No, not at all. I was recovering from a foot injury and wanted to wear something loose & floppy on the left foot. More here if you're interested.


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